[Z06] Best bang for the buck intake???
12-30-2013, 11:15 PM
#1
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Best bang for the buck intake???
Hey everybody still new here and I'm reading as much as I can on here. My Z is still stock, or so I think. I'm the 3rd owner of this car. I have a few questions.
1. What is the best bang for your buck intake? I was thinking Vararam CAI, but I don't know too much about it.
2. Without tuning will the intake throw a engine check light or any sensor light?
Thanks!
1. What is the best bang for your buck intake? I was thinking Vararam CAI, but I don't know too much about it.
2. Without tuning will the intake throw a engine check light or any sensor light?
Thanks!
12-30-2013, 11:35 PM
#2
2nd Gear
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Hey everybody still new here and I'm reading as much as I can on here. My Z is still stock, or so I think. I'm the 3rd owner of this car. I have a few questions.
1. What is the best bang for your buck intake? I was thinking Vararam CAI, but I don't know too much about it.
2. Without tuning will the intake throw a engine check light or any sensor light?
Thanks!
1. What is the best bang for your buck intake? I was thinking Vararam CAI, but I don't know too much about it.
2. Without tuning will the intake throw a engine check light or any sensor light?
Thanks!
12-31-2013, 10:12 AM
#3
Racer
Depends on your mod list. I purchased an AIRRAID CAI because it was the cheapest I found and have no complaints.
Not sure about the tune part but I would assume you could throw it on and drive it, it has a MAF sensor which should take care of minimal adjustments.
Tune would increase HP/TQ without a intake, there is a youtube video somewhere of a before and after CAI out there.
Not sure about the tune part but I would assume you could throw it on and drive it, it has a MAF sensor which should take care of minimal adjustments.
Tune would increase HP/TQ without a intake, there is a youtube video somewhere of a before and after CAI out there.
Last edited by youzzi714; 12-31-2013 at 10:16 AM.
12-31-2013, 12:54 PM
#7
Drifting
Hey everybody still new here and I'm reading as much as I can on here. My Z is still stock, or so I think. I'm the 3rd owner of this car. I have a few questions.
1. What is the best bang for your buck intake? I was thinking Vararam CAI, but I don't know too much about it.
2. Without tuning will the intake throw a engine check light or any sensor light?
Thanks!
1. What is the best bang for your buck intake? I was thinking Vararam CAI, but I don't know too much about it.
2. Without tuning will the intake throw a engine check light or any sensor light?
Thanks!
Yes we all know fantastic dyno numbers have been attributed to these $400-500 intakes, but IMO the best data comes from the track. User "Subfloor" has done extensive testing to prove that CAI at the strip provides a negligible difference.
intakes seem like the biggest rip off to me (followed closely by the 160 t-stat). It's a lot of money. We already know ram air isn't a factor unless the ram is extended something like 8 inches in front of the frontal area or at 180+ speeds. The rest is just less restrictive air filter... now you're letting in more particulate. The stock filter is good enough for a 638hp ZR1...
Most of us are just driving for show anyway...
I myself did two rectangular 1x5" cuts on the outer most edges of the shroud. This lets in fresh air but doesn't let in turbulence.
For $400, you can get a lighter battery (to improve performance in braking, handling and acceleration instead of just acceleration) AND do the stock exhaust mod. It'll feel faster with just that.
12-31-2013, 01:31 PM
#8
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The best bang for the buck is to cut an appropriate inlet in the shroud to let in "cold" fresh air.
Yes we all know fantastic dyno numbers have been attributed to these $400-500 intakes, but IMO the best data comes from the track. User "Subfloor" has done extensive testing to prove that CAI at the strip provides a negligible difference.
intakes seem like the biggest rip off to me (followed closely by the 160 t-stat). It's a lot of money. We already know ram air isn't a factor unless the ram is extended something like 8 inches in front of the frontal area or at 180+ speeds. The rest is just less restrictive air filter... now you're letting in more particulate. The stock filter is good enough for a 638hp ZR1...
Most of us are just driving for show anyway...
I myself did two rectangular 1x5" cuts on the outer most edges of the shroud. This lets in fresh air but doesn't let in turbulence.
For $400, you can get a lighter battery (to improve performance in braking, handling and acceleration instead of just acceleration) AND do the stock exhaust mod. It'll feel faster with just that.
Yes we all know fantastic dyno numbers have been attributed to these $400-500 intakes, but IMO the best data comes from the track. User "Subfloor" has done extensive testing to prove that CAI at the strip provides a negligible difference.
intakes seem like the biggest rip off to me (followed closely by the 160 t-stat). It's a lot of money. We already know ram air isn't a factor unless the ram is extended something like 8 inches in front of the frontal area or at 180+ speeds. The rest is just less restrictive air filter... now you're letting in more particulate. The stock filter is good enough for a 638hp ZR1...
Most of us are just driving for show anyway...
I myself did two rectangular 1x5" cuts on the outer most edges of the shroud. This lets in fresh air but doesn't let in turbulence.
For $400, you can get a lighter battery (to improve performance in braking, handling and acceleration instead of just acceleration) AND do the stock exhaust mod. It'll feel faster with just that.
Interesting and informative....
What are the pitfalls to opening up the shroud ? Would a person then have to worry about sucking up water should they go through a puddle?
12-31-2013, 01:53 PM
#10
The best bang for the buck is to cut an appropriate inlet in the shroud to let in "cold" fresh air.
Yes we all know fantastic dyno numbers have been attributed to these $400-500 intakes, but IMO the best data comes from the track. User "Subfloor" has done extensive testing to prove that CAI at the strip provides a negligible difference.
intakes seem like the biggest rip off to me (followed closely by the 160 t-stat). It's a lot of money. We already know ram air isn't a factor unless the ram is extended something like 8 inches in front of the frontal area or at 180+ speeds. The rest is just less restrictive air filter... now you're letting in more particulate. The stock filter is good enough for a 638hp ZR1...
Most of us are just driving for show anyway...
I myself did two rectangular 1x5" cuts on the outer most edges of the shroud. This lets in fresh air but doesn't let in turbulence.
For $400, you can get a lighter battery (to improve performance in braking, handling and acceleration instead of just acceleration) AND do the stock exhaust mod. It'll feel faster with just that.
Yes we all know fantastic dyno numbers have been attributed to these $400-500 intakes, but IMO the best data comes from the track. User "Subfloor" has done extensive testing to prove that CAI at the strip provides a negligible difference.
intakes seem like the biggest rip off to me (followed closely by the 160 t-stat). It's a lot of money. We already know ram air isn't a factor unless the ram is extended something like 8 inches in front of the frontal area or at 180+ speeds. The rest is just less restrictive air filter... now you're letting in more particulate. The stock filter is good enough for a 638hp ZR1...
Most of us are just driving for show anyway...
I myself did two rectangular 1x5" cuts on the outer most edges of the shroud. This lets in fresh air but doesn't let in turbulence.
For $400, you can get a lighter battery (to improve performance in braking, handling and acceleration instead of just acceleration) AND do the stock exhaust mod. It'll feel faster with just that.
U have pics of what u did?
12-31-2013, 02:02 PM
#11
Drifting
I don't know of any downside, driving in water deep enough to reach the shroud would be a disaster in the first place. I've driven home from PPIR and hit a rainstorm so intense you couldn't drive over 30mph on the highway and I didn't have a single issue. If you had cut a big enough hole you might worry about letting more dirt/water/leaves inside the bay/into the air cleaner. The only other downside is getting the shroud out of the car is a PIA.
12-31-2013, 02:39 PM
#12
I don't know of any downside, driving in water deep enough to reach the shroud would be a disaster in the first place. I've driven home from PPIR and hit a rainstorm so intense you couldn't drive over 30mph on the highway and I didn't have a single issue. If you had cut a big enough hole you might worry about letting more dirt/water/leaves inside the bay/into the air cleaner. The only other downside is getting the shroud out of the car is a PIA.
Dirt and dust are about the two biggest concerns with going this route however.
12-31-2013, 07:32 PM
#14
Instructor
Member Since: Sep 2004
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The best bang for the buck is to cut an appropriate inlet in the shroud to let in "cold" fresh air.
Yes we all know fantastic dyno numbers have been attributed to these $400-500 intakes, but IMO the best data comes from the track. User "Subfloor" has done extensive testing to prove that CAI at the strip provides a negligible difference.
intakes seem like the biggest rip off to me (followed closely by the 160 t-stat). It's a lot of money. We already know ram air isn't a factor unless the ram is extended something like 8 inches in front of the frontal area or at 180+ speeds. The rest is just less restrictive air filter... now you're letting in more particulate. The stock filter is good enough for a 638hp ZR1...
Most of us are just driving for show anyway...
I myself did two rectangular 1x5" cuts on the outer most edges of the shroud. This lets in fresh air but doesn't let in turbulence.
For $400, you can get a lighter battery (to improve performance in braking, handling and acceleration instead of just acceleration) AND do the stock exhaust mod. It'll feel faster with just that.
Yes we all know fantastic dyno numbers have been attributed to these $400-500 intakes, but IMO the best data comes from the track. User "Subfloor" has done extensive testing to prove that CAI at the strip provides a negligible difference.
intakes seem like the biggest rip off to me (followed closely by the 160 t-stat). It's a lot of money. We already know ram air isn't a factor unless the ram is extended something like 8 inches in front of the frontal area or at 180+ speeds. The rest is just less restrictive air filter... now you're letting in more particulate. The stock filter is good enough for a 638hp ZR1...
Most of us are just driving for show anyway...
I myself did two rectangular 1x5" cuts on the outer most edges of the shroud. This lets in fresh air but doesn't let in turbulence.
For $400, you can get a lighter battery (to improve performance in braking, handling and acceleration instead of just acceleration) AND do the stock exhaust mod. It'll feel faster with just that.
12-31-2013, 09:45 PM
#15
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
^^ VR CAI = 43 hp huh? I though it was all advertising. I know they claim 40+ hp with 3+ miles improvement on the 1/4 mile. Did you noticed any performance gain before tune?
01-01-2014, 12:09 AM
#16
Dyno-wise, 80% of whatever an intake claims as a horsepower gain can probably be had with the stock intake with a tune. It is my opinion that most of the so-called CAI horsepower gains are attained by the intake fooling the ECM into leaning out the A/F ratio (a tune can do the same thing).
Increased air flow is probably on the order of 1% (5 HP), at the cost of dirtier air in the engine (probably on the order of 1%).
Any ram-air effect is a different discussion, but screwing up the air flow thru the radiator is a real concern for anyone using the car for what it was designed for (track).
I do think the Halltech beehive is a smart approach to keeping the intake from sucking hot air when the car is stopped or at very slow speeds. Otherwise the stock Z06 hood scoop does a decent job of feeding cold air to the intake once the car is up and running over 50 MPH or so.
Increased air flow is probably on the order of 1% (5 HP), at the cost of dirtier air in the engine (probably on the order of 1%).
Any ram-air effect is a different discussion, but screwing up the air flow thru the radiator is a real concern for anyone using the car for what it was designed for (track).
I do think the Halltech beehive is a smart approach to keeping the intake from sucking hot air when the car is stopped or at very slow speeds. Otherwise the stock Z06 hood scoop does a decent job of feeding cold air to the intake once the car is up and running over 50 MPH or so.
01-01-2014, 11:28 AM
#17
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Dyno HP is useless to determine air intake value, since the car is not moving.
Halltech's approach is to block the underhood heat and extend the MAF forward, while Vararam's thrust is aimed toward avoiding heat by only introducing ambient frontal air.
Halltech's approach is to block the underhood heat and extend the MAF forward, while Vararam's thrust is aimed toward avoiding heat by only introducing ambient frontal air.
01-01-2014, 12:17 PM
#18
Melting Slicks
Based on your response, you definitely don't have a clue concerning "ram air". My tuner and I have data logged my car (as well as others) and have seen positive manifold pressure at just over 100mph (+.44lbs positive pressure at 155mph), where as most conventional (non ram air) intakes result in a negative .96-.98, or in other words vacuum, even at high speeds. This was done with a Vararam CAI on my '08 ZO6. The car picked up 43 rwhp after the install and a tune, and about 4mph in the 1/4 mile. All else was OEM on the car. And I definitely don't drive just for show.
