[Z06] LS7 Wiggle Test DIY
07-04-2014, 05:27 AM
#21
Burning Brakes
Awesome write up!
I have a set of heads from Kohle, and i test them daily on the autobahn! So far been getting 12 smiles per gallon to an awesome total of 4k miles! Customuer service and support is superb!
I have a set of heads from Kohle, and i test them daily on the autobahn! So far been getting 12 smiles per gallon to an awesome total of 4k miles! Customuer service and support is superb!
07-08-2014, 08:07 AM
#23
I first pressurize to move the piston down into the bottom of its bore. That way when I next remove the air pressure and hit the retainers with a socket and hammer the valves are assured to not contact the piston (as they do move down a little bit when you tap them with the socket/hammer. I do not tap the retainers with the air pressurizing the cylinder, this Is why I remove then reconnect the shop air.
What size rubber hose are you using?
How do you know when the piston is down to the bottom of its bore? I've read that you want the car in TDC so if a valve falls it will make contact and not be lost.
Is it possible to just leave the air connected the entire time until springs are off and hose is on to protect valves?
07-08-2014, 09:17 AM
#24
The stem is 8 mm, so 1/4" hose would probably fit snugly. I used O'rings. They roll over the tip and lock into the keeper grove.
You will know when the piston is down the hole after a resounding "swish/thump" is heard, then it ain't going nowhere...... Oh, car needs to be in neutral.
Yes. You don't need to whack the retainer, although guys who work on heads all the time tend to do that to ease keeper removal. I have not ever needed to be that aggressive and spend a bit more time with foreplay...
You will know when the piston is down the hole after a resounding "swish/thump" is heard, then it ain't going nowhere...... Oh, car needs to be in neutral.
Yes. You don't need to whack the retainer, although guys who work on heads all the time tend to do that to ease keeper removal. I have not ever needed to be that aggressive and spend a bit more time with foreplay...
07-09-2014, 02:23 PM
#27
answered in another thread:
Why not use us:
American Heritage Performance
310-326-2399
http://www.americanheritageperformance.com/
http://www.yelp.com/biz/american-her...ce-harbor-city (check the filtered reviews as well, yelp likes to send legit reviews to the filter).
We are located in the south bay. Off the 110 freeway and pacific coast highway.
We have lots of C6 Z experience.
We also do our own LS7 cylinder head machining. We even have our own aftermarket powder metal valve guides that we use in our reworked package #4 LS7 heads.
We have three C6 Z06's in the shop at the moment getting their heads reworked.
We charge $150 to conduct the wiggle test (passenger bank only).
give us a call, email or shoot us a PM.
American Heritage Performance
310-326-2399
http://www.americanheritageperformance.com/
http://www.yelp.com/biz/american-her...ce-harbor-city (check the filtered reviews as well, yelp likes to send legit reviews to the filter).
We are located in the south bay. Off the 110 freeway and pacific coast highway.
We have lots of C6 Z experience.
We also do our own LS7 cylinder head machining. We even have our own aftermarket powder metal valve guides that we use in our reworked package #4 LS7 heads.
We have three C6 Z06's in the shop at the moment getting their heads reworked.
We charge $150 to conduct the wiggle test (passenger bank only).
give us a call, email or shoot us a PM.
12-16-2014, 03:08 PM
#30
Thanks for the info and part #! After talking with my buddy who is helping me do the wiggle test he does not see why we need to use air pressure? He said he has done a few of these without using air? Can someone please break this down for me so i can explain it to him. Thanks Chad
12-19-2014, 05:07 PM
#32
Supporting Vendor
Thread Starter
Member Since: Sep 2013
Location: Harbor City California
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I find that the valve stem locks/retainer tend to "stick", to the point that you'll open the valve with the spring remover (even under 130 psi) before you break the keeper free. I find it helpful to use a 3/4" socket with a short 3/8" drive extension and tap the top of the retainer down with the socket/extension to unseat the locks/retainer. Make sure you do this while the valve is under air pressure. A semi-light tap is usually sufficient. If the retainer is unseated you'll see it move down a tad while the valve stem remains stationary.
Fantastic job! This DIY should help a lot of people here.
The 2nd pic in our DIY shows how to break free the valve locks so they don't depress the valve when removing the springs.
Last edited by American Heritage; 12-19-2014 at 05:15 PM.
12-19-2014, 06:47 PM
#33
Law Dawg Moderator
Posting links to other Corvette sites is not allowed:
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...ate-links.html
Also, if you have issues with this vendor's procedure, take it to email or PM and not in his thread.
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...ate-links.html
Also, if you have issues with this vendor's procedure, take it to email or PM and not in his thread.
12-20-2014, 05:23 PM
#34
Drifting
Posting links to other Corvette sites is not allowed:
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...ate-links.html
Also, if you have issues with this vendor's procedure, take it to email or PM and not in his thread.
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...ate-links.html
Also, if you have issues with this vendor's procedure, take it to email or PM and not in his thread.
12-20-2014, 05:43 PM
#35
Team Owner
Good write up...luckily I'm local to AH so I'll be bringing it to them for an inspection.
12-20-2014, 05:46 PM
#36
Drifting
12-20-2014, 06:06 PM
#37
Team Owner
12-20-2014, 08:24 PM
#38
Drifting
12-20-2014, 08:39 PM
#39
Team Owner
12-20-2014, 08:53 PM
#40
Drifting