[Z06] A couple questions, LS-7
09-21-2014, 11:26 PM
#1
Racer
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A couple questions, LS-7
I arrived at the dealership to replace the heads last week, the service writer wrote it up placed the mat on the floor and the tag on the mirror. I walked back to talk to the Corvette Tech, just to find out he wasn't ready for my Corvette. 
That has go me to thinking, I've done many, an old school engine; Just never done anything other than oil changes on my Z-06. So I pulled off the covers and looked her over. I'm wondering if one need remove the injectors. Sure looks like the manifold with the injectors in place could be removed after disconnecting the fuel line? Looks like other than the various hoses, electrical connections, exhaust, coils, alternator and bracket. The process would be somewhat similar to the old sm. blocks?
I have all winter, the tools and lift so crawling around under her would not happen. Anyone else do it yourself? I'm still thinking,(sometimes in my case very dangerous) any ideas...
That has go me to thinking, I've done many, an old school engine; Just never done anything other than oil changes on my Z-06. So I pulled off the covers and looked her over. I'm wondering if one need remove the injectors. Sure looks like the manifold with the injectors in place could be removed after disconnecting the fuel line? Looks like other than the various hoses, electrical connections, exhaust, coils, alternator and bracket. The process would be somewhat similar to the old sm. blocks?
I have all winter, the tools and lift so crawling around under her would not happen. Anyone else do it yourself? I'm still thinking,(sometimes in my case very dangerous) any ideas...
09-21-2014, 11:36 PM
#2
Drifting
I did it in my garage while up on jack stands, using basic hand tools. Not as hard as I thought, and I changed the cam out while I was in there. The cam swap was much more involved than the heads, though.
There's a DIY here: https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...post1582512006
There's a DIY here: https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...post1582512006
09-22-2014, 12:03 AM
#3
If you're used to wrenching on Gen I SBC's or BBC's then the LS engine is a bit of a learning curve but far from rocket science. The DIY sticky will get you thru it, just make lots of notes and take lots of pics during the disassembly (there is a boatload of wiring and hoses compared to the old stuff). I found the notes to be more useful than the pics (but take them anyway).
Yes, the intake comes off with the injectors in place. Piece of cake. You'll need to buy some funny tools to get some of the connectors off (plastic thingy to get the fuel line loose from the rail, chain auto parts stores have them).
Get the ARP head bolts, the GM head bolts are a PITA to torque.
And pay extra special attention to the steam crossover pipe... many people, including apparently some shops (dumbass on your dollar award) get it backwards. Also locating pins (2) on each head, some lose those as well. Other than that, and a lot of funny o-ring gaskets, some PITA connections behind the manifold, pretty straightforward. I certainly wouldn't pay somebody $800-$1K in labor to do the swap, again if you've got some engine wrench experience and the time, place, and tools to do the work.
.
Yes, the intake comes off with the injectors in place. Piece of cake. You'll need to buy some funny tools to get some of the connectors off (plastic thingy to get the fuel line loose from the rail, chain auto parts stores have them).
Get the ARP head bolts, the GM head bolts are a PITA to torque.
And pay extra special attention to the steam crossover pipe... many people, including apparently some shops (dumbass on your dollar award) get it backwards. Also locating pins (2) on each head, some lose those as well. Other than that, and a lot of funny o-ring gaskets, some PITA connections behind the manifold, pretty straightforward. I certainly wouldn't pay somebody $800-$1K in labor to do the swap, again if you've got some engine wrench experience and the time, place, and tools to do the work.
.
Last edited by Mark2009; 09-22-2014 at 12:07 AM.
09-22-2014, 12:39 AM
#4
Racer
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If you're used to wrenching on Gen I SBC's or BBC's then the LS engine is a bit of a learning curve but far from rocket science. The DIY sticky will get you thru it, just make lots of notes and take lots of pics during the disassembly (there is a boatload of wiring and hoses compared to the old stuff). I found the notes to be more useful than the pics (but take them anyway).
Yes, the intake comes off with the injectors in place. Piece of cake. You'll need to buy some funny tools to get some of the connectors off (plastic thingy to get the fuel line loose from the rail, chain auto parts stores have them).
Get the ARP head bolts, the GM head bolts are a PITA to torque.
And pay extra special attention to the steam crossover pipe... many people, including apparently some shops (dumbass on your dollar award) get it backwards. Also locating pins (2) on each head, some lose those as well. Other than that, and a lot of funny o-ring gaskets, some PITA connections behind the manifold, pretty straightforward. I certainly wouldn't pay somebody $800-$1K in labor to do the swap, again if you've got some engine wrench experience and the time, place, and tools to do the work.
.
Yes, the intake comes off with the injectors in place. Piece of cake. You'll need to buy some funny tools to get some of the connectors off (plastic thingy to get the fuel line loose from the rail, chain auto parts stores have them).
Get the ARP head bolts, the GM head bolts are a PITA to torque.
And pay extra special attention to the steam crossover pipe... many people, including apparently some shops (dumbass on your dollar award) get it backwards. Also locating pins (2) on each head, some lose those as well. Other than that, and a lot of funny o-ring gaskets, some PITA connections behind the manifold, pretty straightforward. I certainly wouldn't pay somebody $800-$1K in labor to do the swap, again if you've got some engine wrench experience and the time, place, and tools to do the work.
.
It's just the cost of a mistake that has me worried; Plus never worked on an LS engine. Like you mentioned lot's of little things could lead to big money disaster. Thanks for the imput...
09-22-2014, 02:35 AM
#5
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Doing it yourself, unless one's a mechanic and is somewhat used to working on LS7s, seems really daunting to me. I've read there have been issues where the heads weren't re-installed exactly properly, after having the "necessary" work done, resulting in damage. Apparently there are some tricky procedures with the LS7, not to mention how time consuming the job is.
Some guys think they are sitting on a time bomb with the reported valve issues. But then again, getting an engine taken apart and parts replaced, seems to be a potential time bomb also. This thread is good reading: https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...prc-heads.html
Some guys think they are sitting on a time bomb with the reported valve issues. But then again, getting an engine taken apart and parts replaced, seems to be a potential time bomb also. This thread is good reading: https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...prc-heads.html
Last edited by darr3239; 09-22-2014 at 02:42 AM.
09-22-2014, 09:37 AM
#6
Team Owner
LS7s are no different than ls1/2/3/6/9 when it comes to heads. There is no magic voodoo or special tricks.
09-22-2014, 10:50 AM
#7
Melting Slicks
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C2 of the Year Finalist - Modified 2020
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If you're used to wrenching on Gen I SBC's or BBC's then the LS engine is a bit of a learning curve but far from rocket science. The DIY sticky will get you thru it, just make lots of notes and take lots of pics during the disassembly (there is a boatload of wiring and hoses compared to the old stuff). I found the notes to be more useful than the pics (but take them anyway).
Yes, the intake comes off with the injectors in place. Piece of cake. You'll need to buy some funny tools to get some of the connectors off (plastic thingy to get the fuel line loose from the rail, chain auto parts stores have them).
Get the ARP head bolts, the GM head bolts are a PITA to torque.
And pay extra special attention to the steam crossover pipe... many people, including apparently some shops (dumbass on your dollar award) get it backwards. Also locating pins (2) on each head, some lose those as well. Other than that, and a lot of funny o-ring gaskets, some PITA connections behind the manifold, pretty straightforward. I certainly wouldn't pay somebody $800-$1K in labor to do the swap, again if you've got some engine wrench experience and the time, place, and tools to do the work.
.
Yes, the intake comes off with the injectors in place. Piece of cake. You'll need to buy some funny tools to get some of the connectors off (plastic thingy to get the fuel line loose from the rail, chain auto parts stores have them).
Get the ARP head bolts, the GM head bolts are a PITA to torque.
And pay extra special attention to the steam crossover pipe... many people, including apparently some shops (dumbass on your dollar award) get it backwards. Also locating pins (2) on each head, some lose those as well. Other than that, and a lot of funny o-ring gaskets, some PITA connections behind the manifold, pretty straightforward. I certainly wouldn't pay somebody $800-$1K in labor to do the swap, again if you've got some engine wrench experience and the time, place, and tools to do the work.
.
09-22-2014, 03:17 PM
#8
Supporting Vendor
I arrived at the dealership to replace the heads last week, the service writer wrote it up placed the mat on the floor and the tag on the mirror. I walked back to talk to the Corvette Tech, just to find out he wasn't ready for my Corvette.
That has go me to thinking, I've done many, an old school engine; Just never done anything other than oil changes on my Z-06. So I pulled off the covers and looked her over. I'm wondering if one need remove the injectors. Sure looks like the manifold with the injectors in place could be removed after disconnecting the fuel line? Looks like other than the various hoses, electrical connections, exhaust, coils, alternator and bracket. The process would be somewhat similar to the old sm. blocks?
I have all winter, the tools and lift so crawling around under her would not happen. Anyone else do it yourself? I'm still thinking,(sometimes in my case very dangerous) any ideas...
That has go me to thinking, I've done many, an old school engine; Just never done anything other than oil changes on my Z-06. So I pulled off the covers and looked her over. I'm wondering if one need remove the injectors. Sure looks like the manifold with the injectors in place could be removed after disconnecting the fuel line? Looks like other than the various hoses, electrical connections, exhaust, coils, alternator and bracket. The process would be somewhat similar to the old sm. blocks?
I have all winter, the tools and lift so crawling around under her would not happen. Anyone else do it yourself? I'm still thinking,(sometimes in my case very dangerous) any ideas...
09-22-2014, 03:46 PM
#9
Drifting
you have tools and a lift? The only thing left for not doing it yourself is... excuses!
We are are here to walk through any questions or mistakes and you're not in a rush... no one is gonna do a more thorough job than yourself!
I had never worked on a V8 let alone an LS before I did heads and cam on mine. With the help of the internet anything is possible.
We are are here to walk through any questions or mistakes and you're not in a rush... no one is gonna do a more thorough job than yourself!
I had never worked on a V8 let alone an LS before I did heads and cam on mine. With the help of the internet anything is possible.
09-23-2014, 12:32 AM
#10
Supporting Vendor
Feel like a vacation? There is no competent specialty shop near my home in the NW. The Corvette tech only does Corvettes and Cad's. He is very knowledgeable, that's all he does. Tying up their shop for the rebuild turnaround they don't like. I would need to have heads ready to bolt on for them to do the work. Most of the head vender's want to R&R your heads. That would tie up that dealer lift for around a month, they say not. I have found in the past, attempting to save money has cost me dearly in the long run.
I'm an "Old Timer" who doesn't do face book or most any other social electronic stuff. (the few friends, I would rather have sit down or phone conversation)
Corvette Forum, thus far, a positive experience, friendly helpful knowledgeable folks, Thanks...
I'm an "Old Timer" who doesn't do face book or most any other social electronic stuff. (the few friends, I would rather have sit down or phone conversation)
Corvette Forum, thus far, a positive experience, friendly helpful knowledgeable folks, Thanks...
09-23-2014, 10:55 AM
#11
Le Mans Master
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St. Jude Donor '12
I don't really have time to travel these days but as luck would have it (good luck for you, not so much for me) I'll be doing a head swap this weekend. If you want I'll be sure to take tons of pictures and then start a thread with all the pertinent steps listed out.
09-23-2014, 01:53 PM
#12
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Feel like a vacation? There is no competent specialty shop near my home in the NW. The Corvette tech only does Corvettes and Cad's. He is very knowledgeable, that's all he does. Tying up their shop for the rebuild turnaround they don't like. I would need to have heads ready to bolt on for them to do the work. Most of the head vender's want to R&R your heads. That would tie up that dealer lift for around a month, they say not. I have found in the past, attempting to save money has cost me dearly in the long run.
I'm an "Old Timer" who doesn't do face book or most any other social electronic stuff. (the few friends, I would rather have sit down or phone conversation)
Corvette Forum, thus far, a positive experience, friendly helpful knowledgeable folks, Thanks...
I'm an "Old Timer" who doesn't do face book or most any other social electronic stuff. (the few friends, I would rather have sit down or phone conversation)
Corvette Forum, thus far, a positive experience, friendly helpful knowledgeable folks, Thanks...
Your dealer should be able to do the same thing. Removing both heads doesn't mean the car can't be pushed around to get it out of the way while the heads are sent out for rework.
Bill
09-23-2014, 03:19 PM
#13
Drifting
Feel like a vacation? There is no competent specialty shop near my home in the NW. The Corvette tech only does Corvettes and Cad's. He is very knowledgeable, that's all he does. Tying up their shop for the rebuild turnaround they don't like. I would need to have heads ready to bolt on for them to do the work. Most of the head vender's want to R&R your heads. That would tie up that dealer lift for around a month, they say not. I have found in the past, attempting to save money has cost me dearly in the long run.
I'm an "Old Timer" who doesn't do face book or most any other social electronic stuff. (the few friends, I would rather have sit down or phone conversation)
Corvette Forum, thus far, a positive experience, friendly helpful knowledgeable folks, Thanks...
I'm an "Old Timer" who doesn't do face book or most any other social electronic stuff. (the few friends, I would rather have sit down or phone conversation)
Corvette Forum, thus far, a positive experience, friendly helpful knowledgeable folks, Thanks...
09-23-2014, 10:34 PM
#14
Racer
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I know dealers and their mechanics don't want to tie up a lift that can be making money for them. However, I am not sure why they would have to tie up the lift for a month. When my engine dropped a valve GM directed the dealer mechanic to pull a head to verify the problem. They pushed the car into the garage where he pulled the head, closed the hood and pushed the car back outside where it sat for 4 more weeks.
Your dealer should be able to do the same thing. Removing both heads doesn't mean the car can't be pushed around to get it out of the way while the heads are sent out for rework.
Bill
Your dealer should be able to do the same thing. Removing both heads doesn't mean the car can't be pushed around to get it out of the way while the heads are sent out for rework.
Bill
There is also a shop in Centralia, but you need to bring stuff to them. There's Johnson Machine shop East of Ex. 99, don't know them either. There is a Performance shop in Chehalis, we'll leave it at that.
I have read the post another member referred me to; (pictures, detailed instructions) I'm about ready to do it myself. Talked for a long period yesterday and WCCH will be doing the heads. We came to a "Meeting" of the minds how/which parts to use, I'm comfortable with them as Jason @ Katech has sent them work in the past. I took a bunch of digital pictures to help with the reassembly of the hoses and electrical connections. Going to use ARP fasteners, don't have to worry about those "Torque to Yield" bolts.
It will be like a "Grown Up" model build, as they will be sending the heads back with gaskets, ARP 12PT Hex fasteners, every thing needed. I'm just going to take my time and enjoy the experience.
Thank's To Everyone for the helpful suggestions. It will be a while, but I'll do a follow up when she's done...
PS Unless I change my mind again, I believe I'm on like, the third or fourth idea...
Last edited by MyLastCorvette; 09-23-2014 at 10:43 PM.
10-03-2014, 11:59 PM
#15
Racer
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A Special Thank You to TRSCobra, and everyone who has made suggestions!
It's going slow, and I refer often to your detailed post. With-out those instructions, things would have been much more difficult. I'm starting to see some real genius in the engineering of the motor and accessories. That bit of advice about stopping when stumped was a real good suggestion; I was cussing the engineering of the alternator bracket, until I re-read your section, addressing that removal process...
PS now that I'm started, there will be work on the suspension, body, brakes, before she rolls next summer?
PS now that I'm started, there will be work on the suspension, body, brakes, before she rolls next summer?
Last edited by MyLastCorvette; 10-04-2014 at 12:01 AM.
10-04-2014, 10:20 AM
#16
Drifting
It's going slow, and I refer often to your detailed post. With-out those instructions, things would have been much more difficult. I'm starting to see some real genius in the engineering of the motor and accessories. That bit of advice about stopping when stumped was a real good suggestion; I was cussing the engineering of the alternator bracket, until I re-read your section, addressing that removal process...
PS now that I'm started, there will be work on the suspension, body, brakes, before she rolls next summer?
PS now that I'm started, there will be work on the suspension, body, brakes, before she rolls next summer?
10-04-2014, 02:17 PM
#17
Racer
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Well then Thanks again, to all who made suggestions. Do you know how/where to acquire those thread chasers. My build will include the ARP fasteners, I didn't know they addressed the cleaning...
10-05-2014, 12:41 AM
#18
Drifting
http://www.nookandtranny.com/mm5/mer...egory_Code=TOE
I got mine separately on amazon, but paid about the same price. I spent a few hours getting all the gunk out using the stock bolts with slots ground in them, but that barely made a dent in cleaning the holes compared to these chasers.
10-05-2014, 10:57 AM
#19
Burning Brakes
10-05-2014, 11:16 AM
#20
Racer
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Here's a place that sells both:
http://www.nookandtranny.com/mm5/mer...egory_Code=TOE
I got mine separately on amazon, but paid about the same price. I spent a few hours getting all the gunk out using the stock bolts with slots ground in them, but that barely made a dent in cleaning the holes compared to these chasers.
http://www.nookandtranny.com/mm5/mer...egory_Code=TOE
I got mine separately on amazon, but paid about the same price. I spent a few hours getting all the gunk out using the stock bolts with slots ground in them, but that barely made a dent in cleaning the holes compared to these chasers.