[Z06] Service Charging system.... AGAIN!!! wtf
10-17-2014, 08:18 PM
#21
Indeed, I see we've already been down this road . . . . 
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...tem-quick.html
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...tem-quick.html
On 9/30/14 th last post on the other thread was "I checked out the load on the alternator and was reading 9-12v. just swapped out the alternator and 14v and holding." And for the last two weeks how has it been reacting? Now I just reread both threads and I can't quote you as ever saying you actually checked the wires at the starter for tightness.
Now, just so everyone is on the same page descibe in detail what is happening.
1 turn the key to the start position and the engine cranks over but does not start YES OR NO
2 turn the key to the start position and you hear a click but it does not crank over YES OR NO
3 you turn the key to start, you hear a click and the engine cranks over slow YES OR NO
4 you turn the key to start and nothing at all happens YES OR NO
for this one there could be a problem that no one has touched on
Clutch safety switch.
Now please don't take this the wrong way but the problem you descibe is not rocket science. It will require someone with experiance to put their hands on it. The average gas station mechanic should be able to sort it out without problem. I really think you should bite the bullit and pay someone to look at it for you before you get stuck someplace.
Now, just so everyone is on the same page descibe in detail what is happening.
1 turn the key to the start position and the engine cranks over but does not start YES OR NO
2 turn the key to the start position and you hear a click but it does not crank over YES OR NO
3 you turn the key to start, you hear a click and the engine cranks over slow YES OR NO
4 you turn the key to start and nothing at all happens YES OR NO
for this one there could be a problem that no one has touched on
Clutch safety switch.
Now please don't take this the wrong way but the problem you descibe is not rocket science. It will require someone with experiance to put their hands on it. The average gas station mechanic should be able to sort it out without problem. I really think you should bite the bullit and pay someone to look at it for you before you get stuck someplace.
Its 50/50. It would either click, or slowly turn over or just fire right up. Oh and I push the button, not turn the key.
2 turn the key to the start position and you hear a click but it does not crank over YES OR NO
Same as answer above.
3 you turn the key to start, you hear a click and the engine cranks over slow YES OR NO
check answer above.
4 you turn the key to start and nothing at all happens YES OR NO
for this one there could be a problem that no one has touched on
Clutch safety switch.
Clutch is pushed all the way down, as far as it can go. When the car starts, it would hover at 12v, then slowly go to 14v.
Doesn't take a genius to figure this out, but anything with electrical is a B****. Checked the battery this morning and it was reading 11v. Started the car, and the voltage dropped to 9 volts.
Thanks
Last edited by Rupert pupkin; 10-17-2014 at 08:27 PM.
10-18-2014, 02:47 AM
#23
From the looks of it, looks like another bad alternator.
10-22-2014, 06:21 PM
#25
Team Owner
Belt tensioner and belt good? Could be slipping causing alternator not to charge.
10-22-2014, 06:28 PM
#26
as stated above but if you get a new alt maybe try doing a fixed tensioner. I think with higher powered Z's the snapping back and forth of the tensioner will put a lot more stress on the alt pulley and may wear the dang thing out faster I don't know. I just changed to one weeks ago since my Vacuum pump belt was wanting to come off because the tensioner was deflected like crazy under hard throttle and causing it to bounce. All that movement with extra power cant be good for the rest of the accessories possibly. Something to consider maybe.
10-22-2014, 06:52 PM
#27
Car starts done when the battery is fully charged. Just came back from a drive and while going 60 volt reading on the dash was reading 10v. Did a quick hwy pull and it settled at 14.5v for the rest of the car ride home.
From the looks of it, looks like another bad alternator.
From the looks of it, looks like another bad alternator.
No posts from the OP in 4 days. I'll reserve judgement for after his next post when he claims the third alternator is bad
10-22-2014, 07:04 PM
#28
Racer
what plugs do you have? mine did this with ngk tr6 right before I went to ocean city. replaced the alt. before I left, still got the message, replaced the battery afterwards and still got it. replaced plugs with ngk tr6ix and problem went away. back to running regular plugs now (br7ef) since im spraying but figure if I get it again, ill just live with it. BTW my voltage is perfect.
10-22-2014, 08:29 PM
#29
Race Director
I second this mod!! Did the same with mine after the alternator took out the second battery(shorai, pissed me off). The billet tech unit has been great and is built for the application. Takes 2 minutes. Mine charges at 14.8-14.9 even at idle.
10-22-2014, 09:12 PM
#30
Melting Slicks
Is there anyway to test the YAW sensor to make sure it is bad before replacing it? My G meter had stopped working on the HUD and the diagnostics was showing sporadic readings on the sensor, so it is very likely that it is bad....however, I just wanted to test it since I have it out before spending $150 on a new one.
Also if my car was out of alignment, would that cause the YAW sensor to read incorrectly? Just curious since I did also recently replace my sway bars and coilovers...so it very well may be off a bit. It does not pull in any direction and the steering wheel is straight. We did our best to count threads and align the car back to how it was before. However, no figures are being displayed before the letter "G" any longer. It for a while was reading 0.25 - 0.28 and this was during just normal highway driving in a straight line. Now it is just a blank G on the HUD.
Also if my car was out of alignment, would that cause the YAW sensor to read incorrectly? Just curious since I did also recently replace my sway bars and coilovers...so it very well may be off a bit. It does not pull in any direction and the steering wheel is straight. We did our best to count threads and align the car back to how it was before. However, no figures are being displayed before the letter "G" any longer. It for a while was reading 0.25 - 0.28 and this was during just normal highway driving in a straight line. Now it is just a blank G on the HUD.
Last edited by lane_change; 10-22-2014 at 09:18 PM.
10-23-2014, 11:50 AM
#31
as stated above but if you get a new alt maybe try doing a fixed tensioner. I think with higher powered Z's the snapping back and forth of the tensioner will put a lot more stress on the alt pulley and may wear the dang thing out faster I don't know. I just changed to one weeks ago since my Vacuum pump belt was wanting to come off because the tensioner was deflected like crazy under hard throttle and causing it to bounce. All that movement with extra power cant be good for the rest of the accessories possibly. Something to consider maybe.
what plugs do you have? mine did this with ngk tr6 right before I went to ocean city. replaced the alt. before I left, still got the message, replaced the battery afterwards and still got it. replaced plugs with ngk tr6ix and problem went away. back to running regular plugs now (br7ef) since im spraying but figure if I get it again, ill just live with it. BTW my voltage is perfect.
NGK is what I have on the Z when I had her modded. If the issue still arises, ill swap the plugs. Any recommendations?
10-23-2014, 12:45 PM
#32
Melting Slicks
I had the same issue. Did a tune up and changed plugs and wires, issue dissapeared. I had Tr6's before, and used the same plugs on the tune up, but somehow the issue went away.
10-23-2014, 09:16 PM
#33
Team Owner
TR6ix plugs, or OEM
That being said, belt tight now doesn't mean tensioner is working or good. I would check the tensioner and watch it as someone revs. Just because it is tight with car off doesn't mean anything when it is running.
That being said, belt tight now doesn't mean tensioner is working or good. I would check the tensioner and watch it as someone revs. Just because it is tight with car off doesn't mean anything when it is running.
10-23-2014, 11:11 PM
#34
UPDATE
Took the alternator and got it bench tested before I swapped it out, and it passed. Reintsalled it on the car and load tested everything. Voltage was reading 14.23+- via volt meter. Load tested everything multiple times, and it held the voltage. Tested the battery prior to everything, and it held a charge of 12.7+-.
Did check the tensioner, and it was tight. Wasn't rattling, or making nay noise. Did have some 1 rev the car.
If the starter does have issues, will the service charging system fault come on?
Going to lift the car up tomorrow, and see if theres any issues with the starter.
Took the alternator and got it bench tested before I swapped it out, and it passed. Reintsalled it on the car and load tested everything. Voltage was reading 14.23+- via volt meter. Load tested everything multiple times, and it held the voltage. Tested the battery prior to everything, and it held a charge of 12.7+-.
Did check the tensioner, and it was tight. Wasn't rattling, or making nay noise. Did have some 1 rev the car.
If the starter does have issues, will the service charging system fault come on?
Going to lift the car up tomorrow, and see if theres any issues with the starter.
10-23-2014, 11:51 PM
#35
Team Owner
It could, especially if the wiring to the starter is melted/etc.
10-26-2014, 10:51 AM
#36
10-26-2014, 11:38 AM
#37
Team Owner
It is a GM, what do you expect? That is why AAA is pretty much a requirement. I don't think I go 6 months without being on a tow truck. Typically something like this. Last time fuel pump fuse blew and had to get towed home. 30 minutes later, was up and running fine.
10-26-2014, 04:25 PM
#38
Most likely the starter is OK and a simple wiring repair would have solved it. At this point however, I'd let someone else fix it and rely on that.
10-26-2014, 11:42 PM
#39
Hate to say I told you so but you were told to check all your wiring including that at the starter by more then just me. Now you have a un-needed new alternator, a tow bill and pissed off wife to deal with.
Most likely the starter is OK and a simple wiring repair would have solved it. At this point however, I'd let someone else fix it and rely on that.
Most likely the starter is OK and a simple wiring repair would have solved it. At this point however, I'd let someone else fix it and rely on that.
Thanks Farmers. Wifes fine with everything.
10-27-2014, 11:32 PM
#40
The original alternator was actually bad too, thats why I swapped it out. As far as the wiring goes, I checked that originally. I thought it was the alternator again because when I load tested everything, the voltage was dropping. No tow bill Thanks Farmers. Wifes fine with everything.
Thanks Farmers. Wifes fine with everything.- charging system alerted, voltage was low.
- dropped from 5th to 4th and limped home.
- went to start the car, it wouldn't start figured it was battery.
- replaced battery still same problem, put car on jacks.. and well the starter solenoid came off in my hand.
- replaced starter, and put a heat shield on it.
- replaced alternator while I was doing all that with BilletTech 170amp.
- problems are gone
Good Luck
- John