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[Z06] Advice needed: Best tire & clutch? Having probs..

Old 10-25-2014, 08:19 AM
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Z006
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Default Advice needed: Best tire & clutch? Having probs..

Hey guys,

New here, few questions.

I have a 2006 Z06 stock with just a programmer, dyno tuned and cold air intake. Tires are: Nitto P345/30R19 (NTOSR)

When my Z06 first came out these were hyped to be the best tire out.. There soft to the touch, but I cant get it to hook for anything. (Been racing for years
not a newbie)

Another thing is, few times I took the car to the track, the clutch dropped to the floor. Had it fixed and since then I hardly ever took it to the track because it doesn't hook on these tires and it seems like even if it did, the
clutch may POP (Bust..) again...

I want to put an A&A supercharger kit on it, and some bolt on's to go low 10's, but want to get this car to hook HARD first before I do.

What do you guys recommend?

With a blower on the current setup, it's just going to spin more and I don't want to baby it off the line with 1.9 or 2.0 60 foots... (I can get 1.8's or so, but it's
just babying it off the line..)

Any advice here would be highly appreciated.
Old 10-25-2014, 10:35 AM
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TRSCobra
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You're going to need to drop to a 17" rear wheel for more sidewall and a true drag radial if you want 60' times faster than 1.8. C5z front wheels with a 275/40/17 hoosier drag radial seem to be the cheapest/fastest setup if you don't drive very far to the track. Otherwise, many guys (myself included) run a Weld RTS setup with 17x11's in the rear and a 315/35 mickey thompson drag radial. Got skinnier 18x7 and 225/40 fronts to match and I drive it on the street just fine.

As for the clutch, your stocker probably won't like launching with a stickier tire. I shattered my stock disc on 510whp with the stock runflats. Now running a mcleod RXT, but haven't returned to the 1/4 track since. Most people like the RXT (mixed reviews), the mantic 9000, and the monster lt1 clutches.
Old 10-25-2014, 11:17 AM
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If you are going to do a blower, just invest in the 15s.

Clutch setup, do a mantic 9000.

As far as nt05r being the best tire, maybe for what fits a stock rim, but if you ever want to hook a decent amount of power you need to downside the wheels big time.
Old 10-25-2014, 06:54 PM
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Originally Posted by TRSCobra
You're going to need to drop to a 17" rear wheel for more sidewall and a true drag radial if you want 60' times faster than 1.8. C5z front wheels with a 275/40/17 hoosier drag radial seem to be the cheapest/fastest setup if you don't drive very far to the track. Otherwise, many guys (myself included) run a Weld RTS setup with 17x11's in the rear and a 315/35 mickey thompson drag radial. Got skinnier 18x7 and 225/40 fronts to match and I drive it on the street just fine.

As for the clutch, your stocker probably won't like launching with a stickier tire. I shattered my stock disc on 510whp with the stock runflats. Now running a mcleod RXT, but haven't returned to the 1/4 track since. Most people like the RXT (mixed reviews), the mantic 9000, and the monster lt1 clutches.
So 17's in the back and 18's in the front? Why go larger in the front?
You have any other pics of your car with this setup?


Thx
Nick
Old 10-25-2014, 06:56 PM
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Originally Posted by Unreal
If you are going to do a blower, just invest in the 15s.

Clutch setup, do a mantic 9000.

As far as nt05r being the best tire, maybe for what fits a stock rim, but if you ever want to hook a decent amount of power you need to downside the wheels big time.
That size 15s would you go with? And tire size?

FYI: I'm prob just going to run 6-7 boost and few bolt on mods, maybe mill the heads. Think I would still need 15s? Or can 17s hook just as well?

Thx
Nick
Old 10-25-2014, 07:06 PM
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They don't hook as well, but 17s can get the job done.

You can do 17s up front if you want.

I run a 345 18 for a street daily tire, and a 325 15 for race setup. Works good for me.
Old 10-25-2014, 07:55 PM
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The tire you have is more of a street legal road course tire, not a drag tire.

I had the same problem with my clutch pedal. Apparently I pressed the clutch so fast going into second gear that it flipped the seal on the clutch slave cylinder. Pedal stayed on the floor. Car had 12k miles. What was your repair?

Now I am road course only, when I can
Old 10-25-2014, 08:35 PM
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Originally Posted by rabrooks
The tire you have is more of a street legal road course tire, not a drag tire.

I had the same problem with my clutch pedal. Apparently I pressed the clutch so fast going into second gear that it flipped the seal on the clutch slave cylinder. Pedal stayed on the floor. Car had 12k miles. What was your repair?

Now I am road course only, when I can
Yeah, same deal here sounds like. But mine happened right after my burnout.. Pedal stayed on the floor.. They said it was some kind of seal too.

Did you ever upgrade your clutch or you left it stock?
Old 10-25-2014, 08:53 PM
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No, I stayed with the factory clutch. On the road course you can shift smooth and firm rather than hulking through the gears. the factory setup has been quite satisfactory
Old 10-25-2014, 09:13 PM
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TRSCobra
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Originally Posted by Z006
So 17's in the back and 18's in the front? Why go larger in the front?
You have any other pics of your car with this setup?


Thx
Nick
Yeah, I went with the larger fronts for looks and tire availability. Probably weigh a bit more though.

Kind of a crappy pic, but you get the idea:
Old 11-14-2014, 03:26 AM
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What would I need to do to get 15's to fit the back?

What size would you go front /back for wheel and tire sizes?

Thanks for the advice.

Originally Posted by Unreal
If you are going to do a blower, just invest in the 15s.

Clutch setup, do a mantic 9000.

As far as nt05r being the best tire, maybe for what fits a stock rim, but if you ever want to hook a decent amount of power you need to downside the wheels big time.
Old 11-15-2014, 11:14 AM
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Spindles, c5 brakes then the right rims/etc. Cost about $3500 to get it done.

Otherwise do a 17" with a 315 or 335 hoosier is about the best for hooking up.

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