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[Z06] what valve spring tool for ls7

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Old 12-18-2014, 08:14 PM
  #21  
Mark2009
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Originally Posted by wjnjr
No worshipping going on here.[...]
Actually there is nothing but.

1. There is plenty of info in the thread to make an informed decision.

2. You appear ready to discard all that based on the word of someone who works on cars everyday, like the Chevy techs that can't change the oil in an LS7 or the private mechanics who put the lash caps on the exhaust valves (or leave them off altogether).

You know that rocket scientists never actually build the rocket, right?
Old 12-18-2014, 09:31 PM
  #22  
wjnjr
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Originally Posted by Mark2009
Actually there is nothing but.

1. There is plenty of info in the thread to make an informed decision.

2. You appear ready to discard all that based on the word of someone who works on cars everyday, like the Chevy techs that can't change the oil in an LS7 or the private mechanics who put the lash caps on the exhaust valves (or leave them off altogether).

You know that rocket scientists never actually build the rocket, right?
Ok pal, whatever. If you want yet another pointless argument complete with personal attacks go back to the valve guide sticky thread. You won't get it here.

ian08,

Sorry your thread was dragged off track. There have been several informative posts so far with recommendations from guys who actually work on cars. I thought it might be interesting to get some more input from professional mechanics. It certainly was not my intention to start yet another Z06 forum pi$$ing match.

Hope you find the information you're looking for. You might ask the mods to delete the last several posts.

Last edited by wjnjr; 12-18-2014 at 10:51 PM.
Old 12-18-2014, 10:46 PM
  #23  
Mark2009
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My point on this and several other threads are three-fold:

1. there is plenty of info available to make your own decisions; correct decisions (rather than relying blindly on others). The OP got his in this one.

2. 'pros' are often wrong.

3. If you're going to own one of these cars, you should plan on learning and performing most of your own maintenance.

Sorry if the bedside manner needs work; I usually shoot from the hip

.

Last edited by Mark2009; 12-18-2014 at 10:51 PM.
Old 12-24-2014, 12:36 AM
  #24  
SHovV
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Uh, the LS7 ratio is 1.8 dude.....

And that tool looks like a PITA. The comp double spring tool works great

Originally Posted by Mark2009
I've tried them all. None will work properly.... the LS7 is 1.7 ratio vs 1.6. You risk damaging the valve stems w/a 1.6 tool.

Best bet is old school crank style with all corners & sharp edges carefully hand chamfered to prevent the spring from being nicked, dented, or scratched.

Old 12-24-2014, 05:38 AM
  #25  
ian08
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thanks everybody
Old 12-24-2014, 12:57 PM
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Originally Posted by SHovV
Uh, the LS7 ratio is 1.8 dude.....

And that tool looks like a PITA. The comp double spring tool works great
True.

But look what that Comp tool is doing to the retainers as they compress... if it is cocking them against the valve stem then that is bad. Mine was.
Old 12-24-2014, 05:10 PM
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Comp cams 5462 here no issues worked for my needs.
Old 12-25-2014, 12:57 PM
  #28  
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The Comp tool works, but you do have to pay attention to what you are doing. Don't just run the bolt down without watching for any binding action. Also make sure you have it bolted down snuggly. Not so tight you pull the threads out of the pedestals, but pretty snug. If I were to be doing a lot of LS7 head work, I'd definitely look at that LSM tool. If the heads are off, I use a large spring compressor that has an adjustable retainer foot. It works great for breaking down springs quickly, but sometimes I want the heads to stay flat on the bench, like when blue printing spring height. Sometimes I'll use several different shims, cups, retainers, locks to get the height where I want it. When doing that, It's nice to not have to constantly move the head around.
Old 12-25-2014, 07:59 PM
  #29  
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I was thinking of modifying my Comp Cams tool to work a bit better. I was going to run a welding bead on the inner side (closest to the pedestals) of the plate that contacts the retainer. I'd then grind it down till both lips contact the retainer at the same time to allow for a more even depressing of the retainer. I haven't made up my mind if I want to mess with it yet. It's not a daily use tool.
Old 12-26-2014, 01:24 AM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by Undy
I was thinking of modifying my Comp Cams tool to work a bit better. I was going to run a welding bead on the inner side (closest to the pedestals) of the plate that contacts the retainer. I'd then grind it down till both lips contact the retainer at the same time to allow for a more even depressing of the retainer. I haven't made up my mind if I want to mess with it yet. It's not a daily use tool.
Think of making that arm that reaches from the pedestal longer, just like the LS7 rocker is longer. Then everything lines up. The screw needs to be parallel to the valve stems.

I'd weld up the threaded boss and redrill it at the correct location and angle, but that will require some machinist skill. Maybe some heat treat too.
Old 12-26-2014, 07:27 AM
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Originally Posted by Mark2009
Think of making that arm that reaches from the pedestal longer, just like the LS7 rocker is longer. Then everything lines up. The screw needs to be parallel to the valve stems.

I'd weld up the threaded boss and redrill it at the correct location and angle, but that will require some machinist skill. Maybe some heat treat too.
I was also thinking about slicing the arm in half and putting about a 0.060" spacer in between the two halves then welding it back up. You're only talking about 300 lbs of compression needed so a heat treat really wouldn't be required.

BTW... even though the Comp Cams assembly's reach is a bit short due to the increased rocker ratio it's still parallel with the valve stem, just offset a bit towards the rocker pedestal. The weld job would still be a great improvement. You could check for the correct contact with a feeler gauge.
Old 12-26-2014, 12:43 PM
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Not sure how much luck you'll have welding on the Comp tool. I believe it is cast post metal. Maybe TIG with cast filler rod..
Old 12-26-2014, 05:02 PM
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Originally Posted by Michael_D
Not sure how much luck you'll have welding on the Comp tool. I believe it is cast post metal. Maybe TIG with cast filler rod..
The part I'll be gas silver soldering is machined steel.

Oxy/acet using grade 5 (45%) silver solder and a 1/2" long piece of coat hanger wire on each side. I use the stuff all the time with ferrous fittings. Then file the coat hanger to get even contact on both sides of the retainer. It'll take about 1/2 hour to do. I'll do it during my next wiggle test.

Last edited by Undy; 12-26-2014 at 05:05 PM.
Old 12-26-2014, 07:04 PM
  #34  
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You just gave away your age.... I haven't used gas for welding since high school shop class. Never tried it on cast. Thx for the tip.
Old 03-22-2018, 10:34 AM
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Originally Posted by Mark2009
I've tried them all. None will work properly.... the LS7 is 1.7 ratio vs 1.6. You risk damaging the valve stems w/a 1.6 tool.

Best bet is old school crank style with all corners & sharp edges carefully hand chamfered to prevent the spring from being nicked, dented, or scratched.

The LS7 has a 1.8 ration rocker arm
Old 03-23-2018, 12:39 AM
  #36  
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Lol
Old 03-23-2018, 12:56 AM
  #37  
MTPZ06
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Originally Posted by Apocolipse
Lol
Unfortunate that it took like 4 years to clear that up, right?

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Old 03-23-2018, 12:58 AM
  #38  
Apocolipse
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The valve guide issue exists right?
Old 03-23-2018, 08:04 AM
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Craighole
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[QUOTE=MTPZ06;1596841059]Unfortunate that it took like 4 years to clear that up, right?[/QUO

Ha! Better late than never ..... I was wondering if anyone would see that.
Old 03-23-2018, 08:05 AM
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Originally Posted by Apocolipse
The valve guide issue exists right?

What valve guide issue?



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