[Z06] NHTSA: File a Complaint - Valve Guide Issue
#201
Advanced
Hi Rocket Riders !! I have a 2013 427 Vert with just over 10000 miles. Love the car runs great. I am concerned about the valve guide issue and filed a complaint with NHTSA today. Has anyone had experience with the dealers on this issue prior to any engine problems ? My car is a "GM Certified " Corvette and they gave me the 172 point checklist but valve wobble was not listed under the engine items. Will they check if it is a known issue ? on their nickel ? or do I have to wait until I have valve noise or the dreaded lost valve to get help under the warranty ? ..... as always I appreciate the wisdom and collective experience of the forum drivers
#202
Same thing with mine..
I just put my heads back on and looked at the box of old parts. The ex guids all have a thin side and were NOT on centerline with the seat by 0.005...... Nice to have it fixed, but doing all the install work myself, it is still in the $2500.00 for the job.......
......v V V
Each dealer likely handles this differently; This is how my purchased new January 4, 2008. 10,000 mile, extremely well cared for; Summer only driven, oil changed at 250mi then 500mi during break in. Now once a year minimum, or 3k miles.
I arrived at the dealership as scheduled last spring complaining about what I thought to be excessive valve noise.
The Corvette tech listened and proclaimed, "That's the injectors."
The head of service stated. We will wiggle test, if the valves are within specifications you will be responsible for the bill; With labor approximately $200.00.
If valves are found to be out of factory specifications, we will repair the valves and guides that are out of specifications, on extended warranty.
I said, you would dissemble an engine and not do a complete rebuild on "BOTH" heads?
No, a regional Representative will come and inspect the parts and make a final decision. They may cover the cost for replacement heads/rebuild; However we cannot guarantee, that will be the outcome. You will be responsible for anything not authorized.
I drove my purchased NEW, $80k, Paid in full, 10,000 mile Z06 home and have spent this winter first with a WCCH top of the line rebuild. (a tad over 4k) I also canceled my one of two, the dealership was allotted, 2015 Z06 Corvettes, placed a year ago.
I also filed a complaint, and am part of the pending suit against GM; Angry would not explain how betrayed I feel.
When needing to replace my daily driver, I headed to the Lexus Dealer. There is a special ordered new RFX 350 parked in the shop with my Corvette and Dodge Diesel PU.
Well the Lexus is no longer new, just went past 13k the other day. Valves are working well, as is all the mechanical parts and pieces of that vehicle...
Until the valve issue that dealership had done an excellent job, replacing/repairing various issues. I have since 07 brought gifts to the service writers and the Corvette Tech who performed the work.
This last Christmas, I did the same; Only this time I had something extra. Both valves and corresponding guides for their inspection.
Graven were the looks of both departments as they were handed the parts for inspection. One doesn't need instruments to determine the wear, as one can move the valves side to side with enough clearance there is a "tink" as the valve contacts the side of the guides...
Each dealer likely handles this differently; This is how my purchased new January 4, 2008. 10,000 mile, extremely well cared for; Summer only driven, oil changed at 250mi then 500mi during break in. Now once a year minimum, or 3k miles.
I arrived at the dealership as scheduled last spring complaining about what I thought to be excessive valve noise.
The Corvette tech listened and proclaimed, "That's the injectors."
The head of service stated. We will wiggle test, if the valves are within specifications you will be responsible for the bill; With labor approximately $200.00.
If valves are found to be out of factory specifications, we will repair the valves and guides that are out of specifications, on extended warranty.
I said, you would dissemble an engine and not do a complete rebuild on "BOTH" heads?
No, a regional Representative will come and inspect the parts and make a final decision. They may cover the cost for replacement heads/rebuild; However we cannot guarantee, that will be the outcome. You will be responsible for anything not authorized.
I drove my purchased NEW, $80k, Paid in full, 10,000 mile Z06 home and have spent this winter first with a WCCH top of the line rebuild. (a tad over 4k) I also canceled my one of two, the dealership was allotted, 2015 Z06 Corvettes, placed a year ago.
I also filed a complaint, and am part of the pending suit against GM; Angry would not explain how betrayed I feel.
When needing to replace my daily driver, I headed to the Lexus Dealer. There is a special ordered new RFX 350 parked in the shop with my Corvette and Dodge Diesel PU.
Well the Lexus is no longer new, just went past 13k the other day. Valves are working well, as is all the mechanical parts and pieces of that vehicle...
Until the valve issue that dealership had done an excellent job, replacing/repairing various issues. I have since 07 brought gifts to the service writers and the Corvette Tech who performed the work.
This last Christmas, I did the same; Only this time I had something extra. Both valves and corresponding guides for their inspection.
Graven were the looks of both departments as they were handed the parts for inspection. One doesn't need instruments to determine the wear, as one can move the valves side to side with enough clearance there is a "tink" as the valve contacts the side of the guides...
The following users liked this post:
bambihunter (09-22-2017)
#203
AH took care of me. They overnighted a reworked set today that should show up tomorrow. Ill update the outcome. Don't waste your time with dealing with JEGS they are a joke!!
#204
I won't be filing a complaint because, so far, I have none. Yet. And I'm still under GM's PT warranty and will be for some time. I don't think it would be right to file a complaint while the factory will still replace my heads gratis. And I'm hoping if/when this happens, GM might've solved this issue and replacement heads will be properly machined. In the mean time, I'm saving the filings to those who've been financially hurt by this issue. I just don't feel right filing if I have no real complaint.
#205
You may not be able to file if you die as a result of your valve dropping into the cyliner at highway speeds when the power steering and brakes fail and you run into the back of a semi at 70+ MPH.
As soon as mine comes out of storage it is going stright to the dealer and I will demand the heads are checked for compliance. If they are not I will file on behalf of all the other innocent people who own a LS7.
It is not acceptable that this is a known issue that can result in death and injury and GM is not openly recalling these vehicles.
I have lost a lot of faith in the bowtie.
Sorry to have to say it...and I have not even put 30 miles on it...deliverd Thanksgiving weekend...
As soon as mine comes out of storage it is going stright to the dealer and I will demand the heads are checked for compliance. If they are not I will file on behalf of all the other innocent people who own a LS7.
It is not acceptable that this is a known issue that can result in death and injury and GM is not openly recalling these vehicles.
I have lost a lot of faith in the bowtie.
Sorry to have to say it...and I have not even put 30 miles on it...deliverd Thanksgiving weekend...
#206
Well...I've had my drive train lock up on me in my IROC-Z28 and thankfully, it didn't send me into a accident. A mechanic didn't properly torque the nuts holding on the rear pinion yoke on the driveshaft. So the yoke loosened and locked up the rear axle, tore up the transmission mount and damaged the inner pinion bearing. I can see people behind me maybe getting into a accident from all the white smoke and oil spray that might emanate from a bay window sized hole being blown through the engine block, however.
I will say if you can convince the dealer service to check the valves, and the heads do need replacement, at least you'll be having this done under warranty. And that means the heads go back to the factory for documentation. Which will be good for everyone because it'll indicate to the factory perhaps the 100% QC being supposedly done since Feb. 2011 isn't working. So many head failures weren't documented because the owners ran out of mileage rather than time. But, I hope the dealer doesn't find anything wrong and be honest about the evaluation.
I'll go a different route. First: Oil consumption (so far so good, I just ran through the winter's tank of fuel and just checked the oil level and it hasn't moved).
Second: I'll take the plugs out now and then and see if any are being darkened by oil leaking by the valve stem and dripping into the chamber
Third: When I get my oil changed, I'll send a sample to a test lab to see if there's a abundance of titanium or steel from the valve stems.
Forth: I can also spend $10-15 on a mechanic's stethoscope and listen to the engine while it's running normally after fully being warmed up. Listen at each exhaust port location and acquire a 'ear' for normal sounds. Then listen every couple times a month for any changes which might indicate a valve stem banging against the inside of the stem guide.
The reason I'm going those routes is it appears from a previous post from a GM engineer in the 'ASK TADGE' section. The post was stating they were planning on disavowing the validity of the 'wiggle' test for guide wear. So the dealers maybe instructed not to even perform it and the results are not to be used for warranty replacement.
I will say if you can convince the dealer service to check the valves, and the heads do need replacement, at least you'll be having this done under warranty. And that means the heads go back to the factory for documentation. Which will be good for everyone because it'll indicate to the factory perhaps the 100% QC being supposedly done since Feb. 2011 isn't working. So many head failures weren't documented because the owners ran out of mileage rather than time. But, I hope the dealer doesn't find anything wrong and be honest about the evaluation.
I'll go a different route. First: Oil consumption (so far so good, I just ran through the winter's tank of fuel and just checked the oil level and it hasn't moved).
Second: I'll take the plugs out now and then and see if any are being darkened by oil leaking by the valve stem and dripping into the chamber
Third: When I get my oil changed, I'll send a sample to a test lab to see if there's a abundance of titanium or steel from the valve stems.
Forth: I can also spend $10-15 on a mechanic's stethoscope and listen to the engine while it's running normally after fully being warmed up. Listen at each exhaust port location and acquire a 'ear' for normal sounds. Then listen every couple times a month for any changes which might indicate a valve stem banging against the inside of the stem guide.
The reason I'm going those routes is it appears from a previous post from a GM engineer in the 'ASK TADGE' section. The post was stating they were planning on disavowing the validity of the 'wiggle' test for guide wear. So the dealers maybe instructed not to even perform it and the results are not to be used for warranty replacement.
#207
first time Z owner. Just purchased a 2008 z06 with 210,000 miles!! Ive got a ticking that Im worried about. What all is involved with fixing this? Can someone point me to a complete LIST of what needs to be replaced if out of spec?
#209
Hi Gents,
This past Monday my LS7 blew up. I was on a highway on ramp doing about 40 mph when I heard a bang, saw smoke coming out of the cowl, and felt like I was dragging something. The engine shut off along with the power steering. I was fortunate that there was only one truck behind me and was able to swerve onto the shoulder without incident. Didn't try to start it again. Saw coolant under the front bumper. Walked the road to see if I had hit anything, there was nothing. The engine bay looked pristine with some smoke left.
Next morning when I visited the mechanic where I dropped it off at, he had chunks of piston and valve in his hands. He showed me a 4" diameter hole on the passenger side of the engine about halfway down the motor.
The engine was not modified, it had 18,000 miles on it. It's a 2008 C6 Z06. I live in Canada near Detroit Michigan and am the second owner. The car was imported here as the gauges are imperial.
I was going to get the heads done this month... I've read the majority of these threads and knew that to be safe, one should rework them. Catching up on this thread it looks like we're no where closer to having GM take responsibility for this known issue.
What are your recommendations to get me back on the road? Crate motor, built motor, remanufactured/used motor? The only option I'm not really considering is rebuilding the current as I don't know if any of this shrapnel will ever come back to haunt me in the future post rebuild. Your advice is greatly appreciated.
This past Monday my LS7 blew up. I was on a highway on ramp doing about 40 mph when I heard a bang, saw smoke coming out of the cowl, and felt like I was dragging something. The engine shut off along with the power steering. I was fortunate that there was only one truck behind me and was able to swerve onto the shoulder without incident. Didn't try to start it again. Saw coolant under the front bumper. Walked the road to see if I had hit anything, there was nothing. The engine bay looked pristine with some smoke left.
Next morning when I visited the mechanic where I dropped it off at, he had chunks of piston and valve in his hands. He showed me a 4" diameter hole on the passenger side of the engine about halfway down the motor.
The engine was not modified, it had 18,000 miles on it. It's a 2008 C6 Z06. I live in Canada near Detroit Michigan and am the second owner. The car was imported here as the gauges are imperial.
I was going to get the heads done this month... I've read the majority of these threads and knew that to be safe, one should rework them. Catching up on this thread it looks like we're no where closer to having GM take responsibility for this known issue.
What are your recommendations to get me back on the road? Crate motor, built motor, remanufactured/used motor? The only option I'm not really considering is rebuilding the current as I don't know if any of this shrapnel will ever come back to haunt me in the future post rebuild. Your advice is greatly appreciated.
#210
Team Owner
Hi Gents,
This past Monday my LS7 blew up. I was on a highway on ramp doing about 40 mph when I heard a bang, saw smoke coming out of the cowl, and felt like I was dragging something. The engine shut off along with the power steering. I was fortunate that there was only one truck behind me and was able to swerve onto the shoulder without incident. Didn't try to start it again. Saw coolant under the front bumper. Walked the road to see if I had hit anything, there was nothing. The engine bay looked pristine with some smoke left.
Next morning when I visited the mechanic where I dropped it off at, he had chunks of piston and valve in his hands. He showed me a 4" diameter hole on the passenger side of the engine about halfway down the motor.
The engine was not modified, it had 18,000 miles on it. It's a 2008 C6 Z06. I live in Canada near Detroit Michigan and am the second owner. The car was imported here as the gauges are imperial.
I was going to get the heads done this month... I've read the majority of these threads and knew that to be safe, one should rework them. Catching up on this thread it looks like we're no where closer to having GM take responsibility for this known issue.
What are your recommendations to get me back on the road? Crate motor, built motor, remanufactured/used motor? The only option I'm not really considering is rebuilding the current as I don't know if any of this shrapnel will ever come back to haunt me in the future post rebuild. Your advice is greatly appreciated.
This past Monday my LS7 blew up. I was on a highway on ramp doing about 40 mph when I heard a bang, saw smoke coming out of the cowl, and felt like I was dragging something. The engine shut off along with the power steering. I was fortunate that there was only one truck behind me and was able to swerve onto the shoulder without incident. Didn't try to start it again. Saw coolant under the front bumper. Walked the road to see if I had hit anything, there was nothing. The engine bay looked pristine with some smoke left.
Next morning when I visited the mechanic where I dropped it off at, he had chunks of piston and valve in his hands. He showed me a 4" diameter hole on the passenger side of the engine about halfway down the motor.
The engine was not modified, it had 18,000 miles on it. It's a 2008 C6 Z06. I live in Canada near Detroit Michigan and am the second owner. The car was imported here as the gauges are imperial.
I was going to get the heads done this month... I've read the majority of these threads and knew that to be safe, one should rework them. Catching up on this thread it looks like we're no where closer to having GM take responsibility for this known issue.
What are your recommendations to get me back on the road? Crate motor, built motor, remanufactured/used motor? The only option I'm not really considering is rebuilding the current as I don't know if any of this shrapnel will ever come back to haunt me in the future post rebuild. Your advice is greatly appreciated.
Hopefully your complaint will be considered by NHSTA even though it was in Canada.
You should start a new thread so others can no of your misfortune. You should contact GM and see if they will help with a new motor since it is low mileage.
#211
Drifting
Thread Starter
Hi Gents,
This past Monday my LS7 blew up. I was on a highway on ramp doing about 40 mph when I heard a bang, saw smoke coming out of the cowl, and felt like I was dragging something. The engine shut off along with the power steering. I was fortunate that there was only one truck behind me and was able to swerve onto the shoulder without incident. Didn't try to start it again. Saw coolant under the front bumper. Walked the road to see if I had hit anything, there was nothing. The engine bay looked pristine with some smoke left.
Next morning when I visited the mechanic where I dropped it off at, he had chunks of piston and valve in his hands. He showed me a 4" diameter hole on the passenger side of the engine about halfway down the motor.
The engine was not modified, it had 18,000 miles on it. It's a 2008 C6 Z06. I live in Canada near Detroit Michigan and am the second owner. The car was imported here as the gauges are imperial.
I was going to get the heads done this month... I've read the majority of these threads and knew that to be safe, one should rework them. Catching up on this thread it looks like we're no where closer to having GM take responsibility for this known issue.
What are your recommendations to get me back on the road? Crate motor, built motor, remanufactured/used motor? The only option I'm not really considering is rebuilding the current as I don't know if any of this shrapnel will ever come back to haunt me in the future post rebuild. Your advice is greatly appreciated.
This past Monday my LS7 blew up. I was on a highway on ramp doing about 40 mph when I heard a bang, saw smoke coming out of the cowl, and felt like I was dragging something. The engine shut off along with the power steering. I was fortunate that there was only one truck behind me and was able to swerve onto the shoulder without incident. Didn't try to start it again. Saw coolant under the front bumper. Walked the road to see if I had hit anything, there was nothing. The engine bay looked pristine with some smoke left.
Next morning when I visited the mechanic where I dropped it off at, he had chunks of piston and valve in his hands. He showed me a 4" diameter hole on the passenger side of the engine about halfway down the motor.
The engine was not modified, it had 18,000 miles on it. It's a 2008 C6 Z06. I live in Canada near Detroit Michigan and am the second owner. The car was imported here as the gauges are imperial.
I was going to get the heads done this month... I've read the majority of these threads and knew that to be safe, one should rework them. Catching up on this thread it looks like we're no where closer to having GM take responsibility for this known issue.
What are your recommendations to get me back on the road? Crate motor, built motor, remanufactured/used motor? The only option I'm not really considering is rebuilding the current as I don't know if any of this shrapnel will ever come back to haunt me in the future post rebuild. Your advice is greatly appreciated.
#212
WoW..........
If you shop this on the net, LS7 625hp are out there for in the $12,000 range. Make every effort to clean the oil tank,lines,etc....Part your other engine on eB**.... The only thing wrong with this fix is the new LS7 will have GM heads....I just did mine (2007 38,000 Z06)and took it for a 60 mile run today....what a differince....Summit, BTR, etc...all can help you with this...I would try GM for help first.....then quickly move on, as they have been little help to say the least, keep ALL paper work as a court case is in the works......Sorry to hear this, but at least no one was hurt........Good luck, Use CF for questions here as there some really smart people here and for the most part will help you....
Hi Gents,
This past Monday my LS7 blew up. I was on a highway on ramp doing about 40 mph when I heard a bang, saw smoke coming out of the cowl, and felt like I was dragging something. The engine shut off along with the power steering. I was fortunate that there was only one truck behind me and was able to swerve onto the shoulder without incident. Didn't try to start it again. Saw coolant under the front bumper. Walked the road to see if I had hit anything, there was nothing. The engine bay looked pristine with some smoke left.
Next morning when I visited the mechanic where I dropped it off at, he had chunks of piston and valve in his hands. He showed me a 4" diameter hole on the passenger side of the engine about halfway down the motor.
The engine was not modified, it had 18,000 miles on it. It's a 2008 C6 Z06. I live in Canada near Detroit Michigan and am the second owner. The car was imported here as the gauges are imperial.
I was going to get the heads done this month... I've read the majority of these threads and knew that to be safe, one should rework them. Catching up on this thread it looks like we're no where closer to having GM take responsibility for this known issue.
What are your recommendations to get me back on the road? Crate motor, built motor, remanufactured/used motor? The only option I'm not really considering is rebuilding the current as I don't know if any of this shrapnel will ever come back to haunt me in the future post rebuild. Your advice is greatly appreciated.
This past Monday my LS7 blew up. I was on a highway on ramp doing about 40 mph when I heard a bang, saw smoke coming out of the cowl, and felt like I was dragging something. The engine shut off along with the power steering. I was fortunate that there was only one truck behind me and was able to swerve onto the shoulder without incident. Didn't try to start it again. Saw coolant under the front bumper. Walked the road to see if I had hit anything, there was nothing. The engine bay looked pristine with some smoke left.
Next morning when I visited the mechanic where I dropped it off at, he had chunks of piston and valve in his hands. He showed me a 4" diameter hole on the passenger side of the engine about halfway down the motor.
The engine was not modified, it had 18,000 miles on it. It's a 2008 C6 Z06. I live in Canada near Detroit Michigan and am the second owner. The car was imported here as the gauges are imperial.
I was going to get the heads done this month... I've read the majority of these threads and knew that to be safe, one should rework them. Catching up on this thread it looks like we're no where closer to having GM take responsibility for this known issue.
What are your recommendations to get me back on the road? Crate motor, built motor, remanufactured/used motor? The only option I'm not really considering is rebuilding the current as I don't know if any of this shrapnel will ever come back to haunt me in the future post rebuild. Your advice is greatly appreciated.
#213
Hi Gents,
This past Monday my LS7 blew up. I was on a highway on ramp doing about 40 mph when I heard a bang, saw smoke coming out of the cowl, and felt like I was dragging something. The engine shut off along with the power steering. I was fortunate that there was only one truck behind me and was able to swerve onto the shoulder without incident. Didn't try to start it again. Saw coolant under the front bumper. Walked the road to see if I had hit anything, there was nothing. The engine bay looked pristine with some smoke left.
Next morning when I visited the mechanic where I dropped it off at, he had chunks of piston and valve in his hands. He showed me a 4" diameter hole on the passenger side of the engine about halfway down the motor.
The engine was not modified, it had 18,000 miles on it. It's a 2008 C6 Z06. I live in Canada near Detroit Michigan and am the second owner. The car was imported here as the gauges are imperial.
I was going to get the heads done this month... I've read the majority of these threads and knew that to be safe, one should rework them. Catching up on this thread it looks like we're no where closer to having GM take responsibility for this known issue.
What are your recommendations to get me back on the road? Crate motor, built motor, remanufactured/used motor? The only option I'm not really considering is rebuilding the current as I don't know if any of this shrapnel will ever come back to haunt me in the future post rebuild. Your advice is greatly appreciated.
This past Monday my LS7 blew up. I was on a highway on ramp doing about 40 mph when I heard a bang, saw smoke coming out of the cowl, and felt like I was dragging something. The engine shut off along with the power steering. I was fortunate that there was only one truck behind me and was able to swerve onto the shoulder without incident. Didn't try to start it again. Saw coolant under the front bumper. Walked the road to see if I had hit anything, there was nothing. The engine bay looked pristine with some smoke left.
Next morning when I visited the mechanic where I dropped it off at, he had chunks of piston and valve in his hands. He showed me a 4" diameter hole on the passenger side of the engine about halfway down the motor.
The engine was not modified, it had 18,000 miles on it. It's a 2008 C6 Z06. I live in Canada near Detroit Michigan and am the second owner. The car was imported here as the gauges are imperial.
I was going to get the heads done this month... I've read the majority of these threads and knew that to be safe, one should rework them. Catching up on this thread it looks like we're no where closer to having GM take responsibility for this known issue.
What are your recommendations to get me back on the road? Crate motor, built motor, remanufactured/used motor? The only option I'm not really considering is rebuilding the current as I don't know if any of this shrapnel will ever come back to haunt me in the future post rebuild. Your advice is greatly appreciated.
Mine is a 2013. The best thing I have going for me is I still have a substantial amount of the PT warranty left. So, I'm hoping if something does happen, GM will foot the bill. Sometimes, buying new can actually save $$.
#215
Cruising is the passion!
Member Since: Jan 2003
Location: SIMSBURY CT
Posts: 6,140
Received 304 Likes
on
213 Posts
St. Jude Donor '07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16-'17-'18-'19-'20-'21-'22-'23-'24
2006 Z. No known issues. About 35k mi.
Six months left on my GMPP.
Will drive it without fear until end of this summer ...
Then ???
Six months left on my GMPP.
Will drive it without fear until end of this summer ...
Then ???
Last edited by CTYANK2; 10-21-2015 at 09:56 AM.
#216
Just finished mine last weekend. 06 z with 47k. Mine was the first lamans blue built so castings were 2005 since it was built in 05. Had some wiggle and swapped then with AHP heads along with new compcams rockers. No valve train nose! Soon as I get the old heads over to AHP ill get the exact numbers on what they were at limit wise.
#217
Me to.......
I just finished mine.(2007 38,000) My stock heads remachined, BTR stage lll cam, YT roller rockers and hardened push rods. I also used Ferrea SS solid 24 degree high flow ex valves and BTR spring kit with Ti retainers...all new PM guides....I only kept the Ti intake valves....Everything but those were toast..some guides (exhaust) were over 0.010..... I put the first 60 miles on it yesterday and I can tell you it is a completely different car and I love what I did to it....Also the fact I dodged a bullet with using the wiggle test that started the whole thing off a month and a half ago....I did all the work (less the machining) and every factory hanger and clip was used as it came from GM....
I think every Z06 LS7 owner needs to look at just biting the bullet and getting it done.....You will be happy you did.....just like you....
I think every Z06 LS7 owner needs to look at just biting the bullet and getting it done.....You will be happy you did.....just like you....
Just finished mine last weekend. 06 z with 47k. Mine was the first lamans blue built so castings were 2005 since it was built in 05. Had some wiggle and swapped then with AHP heads along with new compcams rockers. No valve train nose! Soon as I get the old heads over to AHP ill get the exact numbers on what they were at limit wise.
#218
Thanks for the kind words all. I will seek help by GM and see what comes of it. Even a reduced price on their crate motor would be welcomed at this point. So sad that such a car has to have this problem.
I have quotes to replace the blown engine with a crate motor and the valve guide fix. It isn't pretty.
Buying a motor state side is really not an option due to the +30% US to CAD funds difference. If it was at par it'd be a deal.
I have quotes to replace the blown engine with a crate motor and the valve guide fix. It isn't pretty.
Buying a motor state side is really not an option due to the +30% US to CAD funds difference. If it was at par it'd be a deal.
#219
Thanks for the kind words all. I will seek help by GM and see what comes of it. Even a reduced price on their crate motor would be welcomed at this point. So sad that such a car has to have this problem.
I have quotes to replace the blown engine with a crate motor and the valve guide fix. It isn't pretty.
Buying a motor state side is really not an option due to the +30% US to CAD funds difference. If it was at par it'd be a deal.
I have quotes to replace the blown engine with a crate motor and the valve guide fix. It isn't pretty.
Buying a motor state side is really not an option due to the +30% US to CAD funds difference. If it was at par it'd be a deal.
CF is a awesome resource as I'm sure you know and I'll be happy to help were I can as well since I just did mine a week ago. I plan on posting a DIY video soon of my process with pulling the heads since I recorded the whole thing. These cars are not hard to work on at all.
2 days after I got mine together I did the fuel sending unit on my wife's C6 witch yes had its hard parts but overall not that bad. 4 hours start to finish.
Just take your time and do lots of homework prior to cracking your first bolt lose. And ask lots of questions even if you think there dumb. Check and recheck and verify. You will have her back on the road in no time. Good luck buddy and please let me know if you need some guidance on things.
#220
Team Owner
Thanks for the kind words all. I will seek help by GM and see what comes of it. Even a reduced price on their crate motor would be welcomed at this point. So sad that such a car has to have this problem.
I have quotes to replace the blown engine with a crate motor and the valve guide fix. It isn't pretty.
Buying a motor state side is really not an option due to the +30% US to CAD funds difference. If it was at par it'd be a deal.
I have quotes to replace the blown engine with a crate motor and the valve guide fix. It isn't pretty.
Buying a motor state side is really not an option due to the +30% US to CAD funds difference. If it was at par it'd be a deal.
If you cant get help from GM I would look at what you have as usable and go form there. Pull the motor and do a complete tear down. Have all usable parts inspected like cam, crank, rods, 7 of the 8 pistons and the usable head side. Items that are known needed are the block - est $2k to $3k empty, piston - est $75, possibility new head if the old one cant be fixed. Parts, machine work, and so on provided you do this your self might get you in the ball park of $5k to $6k. If you have the garage and tools to do it in the long run it will save you thousands. Down side is if you screw up you have no one else to blame but yourself were as if you paid someone then you could blame them. But on the flip side if you do it at least you know it's done right. Sorry to hear about your loss. These cars really are amazing vehicles. Just have to work the bugs out our self since GM wont do it for us.
CF is a awesome resource as I'm sure you know and I'll be happy to help were I can as well since I just did mine a week ago. I plan on posting a DIY video soon of my process with pulling the heads since I recorded the whole thing. These cars are not hard to work on at all.
2 days after I got mine together I did the fuel sending unit on my wife's C6 witch yes had its hard parts but overall not that bad. 4 hours start to finish.
Just take your time and do lots of homework prior to cracking your first bolt lose. And ask lots of questions even if you think there dumb. Check and recheck and verify. You will have her back on the road in no time. Good luck buddy and please let me know if you need some guidance on things.
CF is a awesome resource as I'm sure you know and I'll be happy to help were I can as well since I just did mine a week ago. I plan on posting a DIY video soon of my process with pulling the heads since I recorded the whole thing. These cars are not hard to work on at all.
2 days after I got mine together I did the fuel sending unit on my wife's C6 witch yes had its hard parts but overall not that bad. 4 hours start to finish.
Just take your time and do lots of homework prior to cracking your first bolt lose. And ask lots of questions even if you think there dumb. Check and recheck and verify. You will have her back on the road in no time. Good luck buddy and please let me know if you need some guidance on things.