[Z06] NHTSA: File a Complaint - Valve Guide Issue
04-13-2015, 12:47 PM
#221
Heel & Toe
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... Just take your time and do lots of homework prior to cracking your first bolt lose. And ask lots of questions even if you think there dumb. Check and recheck and verify. You will have her back on the road in no time. Good luck buddy and please let me know if you need some guidance on things.
OP, I'm sure you're aware, but there is a Canadian subsection here. I'm sure there's a wealth of resources for you to lean on in there as well. https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...ian-events-97/ 
04-13-2015, 01:27 PM
#222
Intermediate
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Thanks Guedecodiver! I'll take some knowledge now if you don't mind. What is the best Valve guide / Valve combo material-wise. I've been hearing that Titanium and copper guides may not be the right combo. As you know the material combination must be key for maximum lifetime OR performance.
I'll check it out, thank you.
I'll check it out, thank you.
I looked at the SS options but found you have to have higher spring pressures to control the valve which will drive a valve train upgrade.
WCCH has a combo they change the exhaust over to a steel and polish the stock intake with new bronze guides. This also seems to work.
The down side to all these different combos is no one really knows 100% which is best since the data of there wear is still so new. Rest assure as long as your valve job is done concentric you shouldn't have any issues. Material wise its ones best guess as to which is better.
I opted for the AHP combo and have noticed a significant decrease in valve noise and small increase in performance. She has less valve noise than my wife's C6 LS2.
04-15-2015, 01:16 PM
#223
Drifting
Hi Gents,
This past Monday my LS7 blew up. I was on a highway on ramp doing about 40 mph when I heard a bang, saw smoke coming out of the cowl, and felt like I was dragging something. The engine shut off along with the power steering. I was fortunate that there was only one truck behind me and was able to swerve onto the shoulder without incident. Didn't try to start it again. Saw coolant under the front bumper. Walked the road to see if I had hit anything, there was nothing. The engine bay looked pristine with some smoke left.
Next morning when I visited the mechanic where I dropped it off at, he had chunks of piston and valve in his hands. He showed me a 4" diameter hole on the passenger side of the engine about halfway down the motor.
The engine was not modified, it had 18,000 miles on it. It's a 2008 C6 Z06. I live in Canada near Detroit Michigan and am the second owner. The car was imported here as the gauges are imperial.
I was going to get the heads done this month... I've read the majority of these threads and knew that to be safe, one should rework them. Catching up on this thread it looks like we're no where closer to having GM take responsibility for this known issue.
What are your recommendations to get me back on the road? Crate motor, built motor, remanufactured/used motor? The only option I'm not really considering is rebuilding the current as I don't know if any of this shrapnel will ever come back to haunt me in the future post rebuild. Your advice is greatly appreciated.
This past Monday my LS7 blew up. I was on a highway on ramp doing about 40 mph when I heard a bang, saw smoke coming out of the cowl, and felt like I was dragging something. The engine shut off along with the power steering. I was fortunate that there was only one truck behind me and was able to swerve onto the shoulder without incident. Didn't try to start it again. Saw coolant under the front bumper. Walked the road to see if I had hit anything, there was nothing. The engine bay looked pristine with some smoke left.
Next morning when I visited the mechanic where I dropped it off at, he had chunks of piston and valve in his hands. He showed me a 4" diameter hole on the passenger side of the engine about halfway down the motor.
The engine was not modified, it had 18,000 miles on it. It's a 2008 C6 Z06. I live in Canada near Detroit Michigan and am the second owner. The car was imported here as the gauges are imperial.
I was going to get the heads done this month... I've read the majority of these threads and knew that to be safe, one should rework them. Catching up on this thread it looks like we're no where closer to having GM take responsibility for this known issue.
What are your recommendations to get me back on the road? Crate motor, built motor, remanufactured/used motor? The only option I'm not really considering is rebuilding the current as I don't know if any of this shrapnel will ever come back to haunt me in the future post rebuild. Your advice is greatly appreciated.
04-23-2015, 09:06 AM
#224
Drifting
I just bought a GM certified pre-owned 2011 Z06 one-owner with 9k miles Tuesday, and in large part did so only because of the CPO warranty. Hopefully if I ever have any issues GM will be forthcoming by that time and when they repair it on their dime, they don't rebuild it the same wrong way, twice.
I'm in on joining a suit because if nonetheless, I feel this de-value's the car (the issue certainly impacted my decision.) I've personally seen VW act as they should have only when one got a lawyer and they threatened a class action suit; and that was just for 2010 Jetta over a $450 bluetooth module.
I love my 427 LS7 Z06 and am happy that I was finally able to find one with the warranty, but had it not had the CPO warranty, I likely wouldn't have been able to justify the dollar amount, certainly not at least without budgeting $3k or so into new heads. The dealer wanted upwards to $6k for a full fledged warranty presented to me at checkout with the finance guy.
I'm in on joining a suit because if nonetheless, I feel this de-value's the car (the issue certainly impacted my decision.) I've personally seen VW act as they should have only when one got a lawyer and they threatened a class action suit; and that was just for 2010 Jetta over a $450 bluetooth module.
I love my 427 LS7 Z06 and am happy that I was finally able to find one with the warranty, but had it not had the CPO warranty, I likely wouldn't have been able to justify the dollar amount, certainly not at least without budgeting $3k or so into new heads. The dealer wanted upwards to $6k for a full fledged warranty presented to me at checkout with the finance guy.
Last edited by BigVette427; 04-23-2015 at 09:11 AM.
04-23-2015, 09:49 AM
#225
Intermediate
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I just bought a GM certified pre-owned 2011 Z06 one-owner with 9k miles Tuesday, and in large part did so only because of the CPO warranty. Hopefully if I ever have any issues GM will be forthcoming by that time and when they repair it on their dime, they don't rebuild it the same wrong way, twice.
I'm in on joining a suit because if nonetheless, I feel this de-value's the car (the issue certainly impacted my decision.) I've personally seen VW act as they should have only when one got a lawyer and they threatened a class action suit; and that was just for 2010 Jetta over a $450 bluetooth module.
I love my 427 LS7 Z06 and am happy that I was finally able to find one with the warranty, but had it not had the CPO warranty, I likely wouldn't have been able to justify the dollar amount, certainly not at least without budgeting $3k or so into new heads. The dealer wanted upwards to $6k for a full fledged warranty presented to me at checkout with the finance guy.
I'm in on joining a suit because if nonetheless, I feel this de-value's the car (the issue certainly impacted my decision.) I've personally seen VW act as they should have only when one got a lawyer and they threatened a class action suit; and that was just for 2010 Jetta over a $450 bluetooth module.
I love my 427 LS7 Z06 and am happy that I was finally able to find one with the warranty, but had it not had the CPO warranty, I likely wouldn't have been able to justify the dollar amount, certainly not at least without budgeting $3k or so into new heads. The dealer wanted upwards to $6k for a full fledged warranty presented to me at checkout with the finance guy.
06-17-2015, 12:02 PM
#226
Instructor
bump... any news on this topic?
I was interested in getting into a Z... thinking twice about it after reading the posts. Anything else prospective Z buyers should be on the lookout for?
I was interested in getting into a Z... thinking twice about it after reading the posts. Anything else prospective Z buyers should be on the lookout for?
06-19-2015, 04:03 PM
#227
Le Mans Master
I've been following this issue for years now. I've got a 2009 Z with 2,600 miles (yeah its been babied all its little used life) and have complained on numerous occasions about the incessant ticking from the valve train (to 3 different Chevrolet dealerships - Air Force...move a lot) hoping that someone would address it.
I've gotten the obligatory responses: "it's normal, some just do that", "It's probably just injector noise" (it's not), or "I talked with the GM rep and he says there is nothing they can do."
I bought the car new in northern Alabama and it started ticking at about 500 miles....has progressively gotten worse to where it's embarrassing. I know damn well what it is (and so does Chevy), but GM has acted as though I'm hearing things (I'm not). I've been around and built street engines, race engines and know what this is.
I guess I keep hoping Tadge or someone from Chevrolet would own up to this and fix it. I know I could buy new heads or have a shop fix it, but my point of buying the car and keeping the mile low was to keep her pristine and stock. I guess I will just keep taking it out on occasional drives and wait them out.
If I have to replace/fix the heads, that'll be the end of the keeping her stock/pristine and go the mod route...its not what I planned though.
BTW, The oil gets changed every year whether it needs it or not.
I've gotten the obligatory responses: "it's normal, some just do that", "It's probably just injector noise" (it's not), or "I talked with the GM rep and he says there is nothing they can do."
I bought the car new in northern Alabama and it started ticking at about 500 miles....has progressively gotten worse to where it's embarrassing. I know damn well what it is (and so does Chevy), but GM has acted as though I'm hearing things (I'm not). I've been around and built street engines, race engines and know what this is.
I guess I keep hoping Tadge or someone from Chevrolet would own up to this and fix it. I know I could buy new heads or have a shop fix it, but my point of buying the car and keeping the mile low was to keep her pristine and stock. I guess I will just keep taking it out on occasional drives and wait them out.
If I have to replace/fix the heads, that'll be the end of the keeping her stock/pristine and go the mod route...its not what I planned though.
BTW, The oil gets changed every year whether it needs it or not.
06-22-2015, 02:30 PM
#228
Pro
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06-22-2015, 08:39 PM
#229
Racer
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06-22-2015, 08:43 PM
#230
I'd recommend doing an occasional oil test. I just sent a sample of my drain oil to a analysis lab. I'm waiting for the results. This way, you may be able to head off any issues before a bay window through the side of the block happens. It's very cheap. I paid $28 for a post paid return kit. Maybe it can save a $20K+ engine....
07-02-2015, 12:45 AM
#232
Drifting
I don't see that AAA has an extended warranty
07-02-2015, 07:57 AM
#234
Racer
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07-02-2015, 01:53 PM
#235
Drifting
If I put in 32007 (Florida) it shows up.
07-02-2015, 01:56 PM
#236
Racer
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site appears broken in chrome, try another browser. or call your local AAA office.
07-02-2015, 04:17 PM
#237
Team Owner
07-02-2015, 04:40 PM
#238
Drifting
07-05-2015, 09:48 AM
#239
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I have purchased a 08z 2 days ago. I think I got a good deal on it and also purchased a 3yr extended warranty on it with $100 deductible. I only plan on keeping it 2-3yrs. With the issues on the heads, is there something I should do now or just wait? Car runs fine and only has 5500 miles on it. I read the posts here and most are from people that has issues. Thanks for any input!
John
John