[Z06] Battery Tender Hook-up
#21
Melting Slicks
I have my CTEK quick-connect wired direct to my battery and just run it out the hatch...Always worked great since the wire is really flat and doesn't hurt the hatch seal.
On another note...be sure to get your tenders up off the floor and elevated on something! One of you mentioned for airflow, which is great, but I almost had a disaster a few years ago - My '66 is parked directly behind my Z, and the C2's tank started leaking at the sender seal - the car decided to puke out 20 gallons of fuel on the floor and FORTUNATELY was a slow enough leak that the fuel would puddle and evaporate before it got to the tender (got within 2 feet of it)! It may have not started a fire, but it makes me almost start to cry just thinking about the possibilities...
My CTEK's now live elevated a few inches off the floor!!
On another note...be sure to get your tenders up off the floor and elevated on something! One of you mentioned for airflow, which is great, but I almost had a disaster a few years ago - My '66 is parked directly behind my Z, and the C2's tank started leaking at the sender seal - the car decided to puke out 20 gallons of fuel on the floor and FORTUNATELY was a slow enough leak that the fuel would puddle and evaporate before it got to the tender (got within 2 feet of it)! It may have not started a fire, but it makes me almost start to cry just thinking about the possibilities...
My CTEK's now live elevated a few inches off the floor!!
#22
Team Owner
I have my CTEK quick-connect wired direct to my battery and just run it out the hatch...Always worked great since the wire is really flat and doesn't hurt the hatch seal.
On another note...be sure to get your tenders up off the floor and elevated on something! One of you mentioned for airflow, which is great, but I almost had a disaster a few years ago - My '66 is parked directly behind my Z, and the C2's tank started leaking at the sender seal - the car decided to puke out 20 gallons of fuel on the floor and FORTUNATELY was a slow enough leak that the fuel would puddle and evaporate before it got to the tender (got within 2 feet of it)! It may have not started a fire, but it makes me almost start to cry just thinking about the possibilities...
My CTEK's now live elevated a few inches off the floor!!
On another note...be sure to get your tenders up off the floor and elevated on something! One of you mentioned for airflow, which is great, but I almost had a disaster a few years ago - My '66 is parked directly behind my Z, and the C2's tank started leaking at the sender seal - the car decided to puke out 20 gallons of fuel on the floor and FORTUNATELY was a slow enough leak that the fuel would puddle and evaporate before it got to the tender (got within 2 feet of it)! It may have not started a fire, but it makes me almost start to cry just thinking about the possibilities...
My CTEK's now live elevated a few inches off the floor!!
#23
Instructor
Connected right to the battery, and always leave the connector on. I have the Battery Tender Jr. The wire is pretty flat so it fits thru the back of the hatch real easy. The unit itself is on a brick, and plugged into a surge protector.
#24
Race Director
#25
Pro
I use a Cen-Tech float charger (often on sale for $6.99 at Harbor Freight) connected directly to the battery posts in the back (no problems closing the hatch). I also have one on each of my tractor batteries. They work great.
#28
Burning Brakes
I use a Cen-Tech float charger (often on sale for $6.99 at Harbor Freight) connected directly to the battery posts in the back (no problems closing the hatch). I also have one on each of my tractor batteries. They work great.
When the tender is first hooked up, it goes thru a process (desulphation) sp.to remove the lead.. then monitors the state of charge and trickle charges to maintain correct voltage. Has light indicators that show what stage it's in..