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C6 Corvette ZR1 & Z06General info about GM’s Corvette Supercar, LS9 Corvette Technical Info, Performance Upgrades, Suspension Setup for Street or Track
Here is a video of my recent trip to Ocala at the wannaGOFAST 1/2 Mile event where I took home Fastest Naturally Aspirated: Privateer. The car was running great and I had a great time and met some awesome people!!
Here is a video of my recent trip to Ocala at the wannaGOFAST 1/2 Mile event where I took home Fastest Naturally Aspirated: Privateer. The car was running great and I had a great time and met some awesome people!!
Hey man! Thanks for dropping me a note, I was hoping to make it to track attack to meet you but just couldn't budget it in this year.
For the tires I am using 285/40-18 Michelin Pilot Super Sport non-runflats in front, and 345/30-19 MPSS in the rear, on the stock 2006 Z06 wheels. The sidewalls look "square" with the wheel, instead of stretched like the factory sizes, but not "bulged" like a 295 front. These tires are really great for the street, I think they are the perfect street tire for any performance vehicle.
I tried the MPSS tires recently at a wannaGOFAST 1/2 mile event. I was fighting for traction through 2nd gear, so it's clear that I need more tire for dig races. Last week I purchased Weld RT-S wheels, black centers, 17x4.5 and 17x11s. I plan on 26x.5.00-17 Mickey Thomspon Sportsman S/R for the front runner tires, and M&H Racemasters 325/45-17 for the rear. If that doesn't hook the power, I don't know what will!!
Do you have a build thread going for your TJ that you could link me to? I owned a 99 at one point, very light mods, and just helped a friend get his 02 back to running condition last week (his auto shifter interlock solenoid was frozen, auto shifter button wouldn't even depress so it couldn't shift out of park). When I wacked it with the BFH he thought I was a water walker.
You will love the Performance AFX rotors, they are super easy to bolt on. The hardest part of the job is removing all the old blue Loctite from the caliper bolts (wire wheel works best). Someday when I'm rich I will send my shortblock to Katech so they can install some of their 12:1 pistons, blueprint and balance the engine, install the oil squirters, their oil pump, etc. Maybe in another 30k miles. I highly recommend the Monster LT1-S clutch, I installed one in mine and I am in heaven now.
Always great to hear from you!
Josh
jOSH...
Those are the same tires I have on there now, they do ok however when its below 65 degrees or so they slide around easily.!! The setup you are going to soyunds like it will work well, hope to hear feedback.
I do have a build thread....not trying to hijack!!!!!
Its my youngest sons first vehicle. Here he is with the progress as of about two months ago. I havent updated the thread in a while, been kind of busy with it. There is a photobucket link in the thread that shows pics of some of the progress and some of my other toys...Dont even get on here much anymore. Not enough time in the day. If you get up this way, call me we will get together.
Im definately going with all the upgrades I mentioned, and Ill copy the clutch you recommend as well. I will probably have Katech do the clutch, just so the car has paperwork with a reputable shop in case I move up to a C8, lol.
Last edited by reasonable suspicion; 02-09-2016 at 06:52 PM.
Here is a video of my recent trip to Ocala at the wannaGOFAST 1/2 Mile event where I took home Fastest Naturally Aspirated: Privateer. The car was running great and I had a great time and met some awesome people!!
Here is a video of my recent trip to Ocala at the wannaGOFAST 1/2 Mile event where I took home Fastest Naturally Aspirated: Privateer. The car was running great and I had a great time and met some awesome people!!
Great run are you still using the Carbotech 1521 pads?
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Josh, I'd like to hear more about the difference between the stock clutch and your new Monster clutch.
I too have an 06 with the T56 so I'd love to hear your thoughts on the changes in driving experience.
Price
The Monster LT1-S is, to me, probably the most underrated clutch in all of LS'dom. I bought a complete 2014 clutch and flywheel assembly from eBay with only 3 miles on the "odometer"....all for $94. Shipped. I then bought a lightened conversion flywheel with hardware from Monster, then had the Monster assembly balanced to the exact same imbalance (ie hot balancing) as my LS7 flywheel/clutch assembly. So for about $775 I had a complete clutch and flywheel for my car. I try to do everything I do on a budget!
Pedal Effort
Same as stock, might be a smidge lighter. Too close to call.
Actuation
Take-up is at the top of the pedal. LS7 clutch was midway. I don't know if its because it's a new clutch, or because the self-adjusting mechanism of the Stingray PP is designed that way, but the clutch take-up is right at the top of the pedal.
Modulation
This is an extremely predictable clutch. It will engage or disengage almost telepathically. No surprises, you can slip this clutch with great confidence that it is going to do what you want it to do. And without ANY chatter.
Clamping Ability
I've put about 25 pulls on this clutch from 1st gear through 4th. Wide open throttle, 594rwhp/542rwtq, and it hasn't even blinked. When your foot leaves the left pedal this sucker clamps and stays clamped, it will chirp the tires on the 1-2, and 2-3.
Beyond 600rwhp, I don't know. But I can tell you that my LS7 clutch felt like it was really tired after a strong 1st through 3rd pull. Not clamped, but not dead in the water. When my LS7 was stock, the clutch felt completely relaxed doing it's job, before the 150 or so rwhp increase.
I can only infer that the LT1-S has at least another 150rwtq to grow before it starts to feel a bit tired after some abuse, but ultimately that will be answered by someone who has tested it that high. But, this clutch doesn't even blink at 600rwhp and WOT, drag race shifting.
Moment of Inertia
The rwhp claims are valid. I laid down 585/535 with the LS7 clutch, hitting those numbers like clockwork on 3 pulls, then installed the Monster clutch, zero changes to the tune, on the same dyno about a month later, and I rang up 594/542, I gained 9 rwhp and 7 rwtq consistently across 3 pulls. So, there is power to be gained by moving the mass of the clutch assy towards the axis of rotation, as the LT1S has two 9.5" discs, versus one ginormous LS7 disc.
The engine will rev quicker, this is what I love most about this clutch, so if you are into heal/toe driving but still want a streetable clutch and flywheel, this is the clutch for you
Gear rattle
Every party needs a pooper. This amazing clutch will produce a faint gear rattle in the tranny, once the trans fluid is up to full operating temp. You can't hear it over your fan on low, and won't hear it with an aftermarket catback. It's so minor that you have to be listening to hear it. For the non-mechanically inclined, they won't hear it at all. You have to be actively listening for it to know it's there. This is why the stingray has a dual mass flywheel, so the stingray can get away with having an unsprung hub on the clutch disc. The solid conversion flywheel and unsprung hub combo will always result in a tiny bit of rattle, only in neutral, and only with your foot off the clutch pedal. IE, almost never.
Installation
OE grade quality....because it is Fits like factory, I used a Ram steel clutch alignment tool and sprayed a light coat of white lithium on the splines of the hub and input shaft. Install of the clutch went super easy. Different story on the 12'o'clock bellhousing bolt and the 2'o'clock torque tube to bellhousing bolt. Both those basterds can go straight to the seventh circle of hell.
Value
I've read numerous ravings about the Mantic clutch packages. They look awesome. My Monster LT1-S experience rivals every review I have seen about the Mantic....but for less than half the Mantic price. Oh, and replacement parts have a GM part number, an added bonus.
Thanks for the kind words. I will take a look at that build. I agree that a road course would be awesome to really explore the capabilities of the car. I feel like that can be spendy though.
Along similar lines of weight savings/dollars spent, I wonder what tires and brakes would still work well/dollars spent. Obviously you don't want too poor of a tire, because there goes your driving experience, but you don't really want to wear out Michelin Pilot Sport Cups for $5k a set. Seems like a set of dedicated track tires might fit the bill, costly up front, but will save your street tires. My only insight as to road racing is that a friend of mine went to an HPDE at NOLA and his MPSS tires were pretty worn up front from the one day he went.
I just ordered some Weld RT-S wheels, 17x5 front and 17x11 rear for some 1/2 mile racing events. Looking at 26x6.00 M/T Sportsman S/Rs in front and bought some M&H Racemaster DRs 325/45-17 rears. So I'm invested in straight line racing for the short term, but that doesn't rule out getting into HPDE in the mid term. I won fastest Naturally Aspirated on Sunday of the wannaGOFAST event, on MPSS tires!, so that encouraged me to invest a bit more and win both Saturday and Sunday (I was 162.9, faster guy on Saturday was 166.x), both C6Zs.
Awesome, have fun with the build and breaking records. You deserve it after all that work. If you like dragging you'd really love road racing where its tons and lots more track time of fun where learning the skills will get you more every time out regardless of build. You'll be mixing it up with Porsche's and other exotics safely. You could use your MPSS a few times and the wear will mostly be the edges so it won't kill the street life much. I use R888's full time but don't daily the car. I used NT-05's for awhile and they held up well on track and street. They'll both hook well on straights too. I got little to zero wheel spin in second with 550whp. You can keep the rest stock, as you learn it's better anyway, on HPDE's. Once you go slicks you'll want or need to change other components and like you I'm on a tight budget. Your first HPDE upgrades will be pads, and cooling stuff over time, not an extreme expense for all that track time and smiles. Tear it up!
Awesome, have fun with the build and breaking records. You deserve it after all that work. If you like dragging you'd really love road racing where its tons and lots more track time of fun where learning the skills will get you more every time out regardless of build. You'll be mixing it up with Porsche's and other exotics safely. You could use your MPSS a few times and the wear will mostly be the edges so it won't kill the street life much. I use R888's full time but don't daily the car. I used NT-05's for awhile and they held up well on track and street. They'll both hook well on straights too. I got little to zero wheel spin in second with 550whp. You can keep the rest stock, as you learn it's better anyway, on HPDE's. Once you go slicks you'll want or need to change other components and like you I'm on a tight budget. Your first HPDE upgrades will be pads, and cooling stuff over time, not an extreme expense for all that track time and smiles. Tear it up!
I appreciate the road race and wear item insights. I'll make an effort to register for a HPDE this year, on the 285/345 MPSS, DRM bilsteins, performance afx rotors/1521 pads. Rock on brother!
So, much to my chagrin, I get poked in the chops for my welds...and I deserve it. BUT! I really enjoy metalworking, even though I have a craftsmen flux core welder and so so welding.
I'm the kind of guy who knows when I like something, and I don't want it to change. My seating position is one of them, I hate when it gets changed, and I want to shed some curb weight. With the addition of an electric base on my newly installed 2012 seats, and the 10 lbs the electric base added, I thought it was high time to do something about it.
So I got to searching the internet for a sensible seat bracket solution. I am in love with the 2012 seats and don't want a single thing to change about them. I want lumbar, I want the seat heater, I just don't need it to change position. I found a couple low mount 1/8" steel seat brackets that I could have used as a foundation, but they were about $80, and I'd have to cut them up. I have some spare time at the moment, so I got to thinking about buying some strong aluminum that could do the same job as a steel seat bracket, but cheaper, and lighter.
I bought two 1/8" thick 1.5"x1.5"x60" pieces of angle extruded 6061-T6 aluminum from Amazon. I am using these angle pieces as the main front to back "beams" for the seat brackets. As anchor points, I am using 3/8" thick 7076 aluminum, I used a 1 3/4" holesaw to make 8 of these super thick aluminum washer/bases to mount to the stock mounting locations. Connecting both parallel angle beams are two 5/8" OD 6061-T6 aluminum 3/8" ID schedule pipe (about 1/8" thick). These left to right tubes exactly mimic the placement off the 5/8" steel tubes running left to right on the factory base. The only "cool" feature of using the 5/8" aluminum pipe is that it retains the functionality of the airbag harness clip. I know that's waaay too **** of a detail to go to the length of driving across town to a metal wholesaler to buy the pipe....but I am deadest on not molesting my car, instead I want to preserve as much OEM function as I can.
In order to ensure my seat brackets are not croaked or off, or uncomfortable, I positioned the passenger seat (haven't started on the drivers bracket yet...) just how I like it, comfortable for every passenger, then I simply removed it. I spent about 15 hours fabbing the jig to build the aluminum seat bracket. I'm not trying to peddle this stuff for money, but PM me if you are interested in a set, obviously it will depend on the quality of my product. The jig is absolutely robust, and I now that it's made I could whip up a set of brackets in an afternoon.
Here are some pictures of the jig, the aluminum, and the initial cuts and bends. Let me know what you think. For a 30-40lb weight reduction (depending on vette model), I think losing the seat adjustment is worth the weight loss. I could make the brackets with extra holes to give owners the option of moving their seats forward or rearward in half inch increments, but removing the seat bottoms to gain access to the bolts is not a quick and easy endeavor, more like 2-3 hours. But if you are like me, you know what you like, and don't care if you have a fixed seat. Add lightness.
Here is the Jig. I hate taking pictures with my sons iPad....apologies for the low res
Measurements of material lengths and angles have been double checked, initial cut made, nice closure of the cut should make TIG'ing it shut easier
I'd trust my life only on the good stuff. No Lowes scrap alum here.
20.9 pounds of electric seat base, up for sale soon...both of them
Thanks for checking out my build! Just trying to keep the Z06 goals consistent, N/A, affordable, reliable, lightweight, and FUN!
Those are the same tires I have on there now, they do ok however when its below 65 degrees or so they slide around easily.!! The setup you are going to soyunds like it will work well, hope to hear feedback.
I do have a build thread....not trying to hijack!!!!!
Its my youngest sons first vehicle. Here he is with the progress as of about two months ago. I havent updated the thread in a while, been kind of busy with it. There is a photobucket link in the thread that shows pics of some of the progress and some of my other toys...Dont even get on here much anymore. Not enough time in the day. If you get up this way, call me we will get together.
Im definately going with all the upgrades I mentioned, and Ill copy the clutch you recommend as well. I will probably have Katech do the clutch, just so the car has paperwork with a reputable shop in case I move up to a C8, lol.
I just read through your TJ build. Very cool! I had a 99 TJ for a year or two, mostly my wife's California around town convertible, Rubicon Wheels, 4 cyl auto, nothing to call home about. But, I bought it cheap, sold it for a profit, and the wife enjoyed it for two years. We parked it in the garage and rarely put the top up. I sold it just before I went big into the mods.....like 4BT cummins diesel, Nth degree suspension lift...maybe an explorer 8.8 rear axle, too easy to get carried away. Just last week I helped revive a buddy's TJ (he's not mechanically inclined).
What tire size are you aiming for? What kind of usage does it see?
New PB on my local dynojet 224x: 596rwhp/549rwtq On the third run I pulled the muffler fuse and it bumped the torque at 2000rpm from 400rwtq (muffled) to about 420rwtq (open).
I'm very happy with the results, it really runs great. I'm sort of amazed that the K501 is making so much torque. Normally it takes a Torquer cam to get to 550rwtq, at least in my observation.
New PB on my local dynojet 224x: 596rwhp/549rwtq On the third run I pulled the muffler fuse and it bumped the torque at 2000rpm from 400rwtq (muffled) to about 420rwtq (open).
I'm very happy with the results, it really runs great. I'm sort of amazed that the K501 is making so much torque. Normally it takes a Torquer cam to get to 550rwtq, at least in my observation.
More Torque than mine with the Torquer 110 and makes it just as early. Makes WAY more power up top.
New PB on my local dynojet 224x: 596rwhp/549rwtq On the third run I pulled the muffler fuse and it bumped the torque at 2000rpm from 400rwtq (muffled) to about 420rwtq (open).
I'm very happy with the results, it really runs great. I'm sort of amazed that the K501 is making so much torque. Normally it takes a Torquer cam to get to 550rwtq, at least in my observation.
I really appreciate the awesome feedback! Thanks, I love driving it. My hats off to Katech for specifying such great cam. There's nothing to complain about with it, it's got the torque where you want it, and it pulls up top like a Banshee.
I have a Mamo Motorsports top end in the works and E85 fuel. I put down a deposit on Tony's new Mamofied TFS heads, 13.5:1 SCR on E85, Mamofied MSD intake (MSD is box stock right now), and best of all, a Mamo spec'ed solid roller cam with adjustable YT rocker arms, Johnson Racing solid roller lifters. Supporting parts like ATI UD balancer, Katech Red oil pump, ID850's. The cam should shift the power to the right a bit, but with the increased SCR there shouldn't be too much of a difference in torque output down low around 2000. As long as there is 400rwtq or so, that's plenty for my MPSS 345s to handle!
I am in the middle of installing a 2.0 TDI diesel into a Chev Colorado right now. As soon as that project is done in the next couple months I'll start on the Corvette.
I'm hoping to pick up a Z06 in the very near future (just need to sell my current car, lol) & have been trying to absorb as much info on mods as I can & your thread has a whole bunch of info!! Thanks in advance.
02-09-2016, 01:47 PM
wannaGOFAST 1/2 Mile Ocala, FL 2016 **PB** 162.94 MPH
Always great to hear from you!
are you still using the Carbotech 1521 pads?
Fits like factory, I used a Ram steel clutch alignment tool and sprayed a light coat of white lithium on the splines of the hub and input shaft. Install of the clutch went super easy. Different story on the 12'o'clock bellhousing bolt and the 2'o'clock torque tube to bellhousing bolt. Both those basterds can go straight to the seventh circle of hell.
