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C6 Corvette ZR1 & Z06General info about GM’s Corvette Supercar, LS9 Corvette Technical Info, Performance Upgrades, Suspension Setup for Street or Track
I am picking up an all aluminum open trailer down in Ocala, FL. this week for a little over $4k, has stone guard, dovetail, low profile, six foot pull out ramps, radial tires and both fenders come off. I am dealing with a company named the Aluminum Trailer Group and they do a lot of advertising on Craigslist down here in the southeast. Very helpful and accommodating people to work with and the quality is real great. A close friend of mine who builds trailers (unfortunately not aluminum) saw one just like I ordered at the Moultrie, GA. swap meet a couple of weeks ago and he was overly satisfied with the construction and quality of the build even down to the welding.
Listed as an 18 foot trailer but the total bed length is 20 feet.
Aluminum storage box on the tongue and a winch located behind the stone guard. Fenders are removable on both sides. LED lights.
Trailer weighs 1650 pounds and it rated to 7000 pounds.
Option for larger axles to 9600 pounds.
The 16 foot version, total 18 foot bed length, is more than long enough for a Corvette.
I needed the longer bed for other vehicles I trailer.
The cost isnt an issue, but neither is the weight. So I will pay less for more weight. guess its looking more and more like a enclosed trailer, just need to find the right brand, size style and what works best for our cars....
I know cost is not an issue with you guys with deep pockets, but some of us look for bargains, and in my case, a bargain that is light weight as well as well built, because I don't drive a 650 model super truck either.
Just passing on some info for the average joe with a Vette that wants to maybe save some driving mileage.
By the way, I have had several enclosed trailers, non better than the one that was built by Sno Pro.......it had the nicest setup going, all aluminum, side escape door, ramp overs, and the longest fold out ramps I have ever seen and we never dragged bottom or messed up a splitter.
Another thing, I did own one enclosed (my first) without a escape door over the drivers side wheel well..........never again will I crawl out of a vehicles window or top to get out of it.
I know cost is not an issue with you guys with deep pockets, but some of us look for bargains, and in my case, a bargain that is light weight as well as well built, because I don't drive a 650 model super truck either.
Just passing on some info for the average joe with a Vette that wants to maybe save some driving mileage.
By the way, I have had several enclosed trailers, non better than the one that was built by Sno Pro.......it had the nicest setup going, all aluminum, side escape door, ramp overs, and the longest fold out ramps I have ever seen and we never dragged bottom or messed up a splitter.
Another thing, I did own one enclosed (my first) without a escape door over the drivers side wheel well..........never again will I crawl out of a vehicles window or top to get out of it.
Agree I hadn't thought about the escape door before which is why I come here for this type of advise, and I still want a good deal but I will pay more if its worth it.
I agree you are correct, sometimes it does cost a little more for something we want that fits our needs. The escape door, in my opinion, is one of those things you have to have on a enclosed trailer....bar none. I soon found out I am not interested in doing a "Houdini" to get in and out of a car on a trailer without one.
Originally Posted by harveyjl
Agree I hadn't thought about the escape door before which is why I come here for this type of advise, and I still want a good deal but I will pay more if its worth it.
Here is my trailer. It weighs about 1800#. I tow behind my range rover with no issues. With the wide rear ramps it is very easy for me to load the car myself without worrying about falling off some skinny ramps.
It goes perfectly. I have towed at speeds way faster than I should have and it doesn't sway or anything.
The flat part is 18' plus whatever length the little dove tail is. I actually load my bike sideways in the front, then load the z06 behind that. It all fits nicely and the weight distribution is great. And I can take two toys instead of one!
I don't want an enclosed trailer because it would be too much to tow behind my range rover. They weigh too much plus all the wind resistance. Plus my rear visibility is still there with my trailer.
I also got a heck of a deal on this trailer. I love it even though I barely ever use it.
Open trailers weigh less and are slightly easier to tow. The weak point is if you go into a restaurant or stay over night in a motel your car/tires/tools are exposed. Another issue is bad weather to/from the track exposes the car.
With an enclosed trailer you can lock everything up and it's like a portable garage. The very best enclosed trailers are Gold Rush. It is an aluminum monocoque design with a very low floor height (similar to the new alum semi trailers). My last three Gold Rush trailers have appreciated over time and I sold them for more than I paid for them.
Each winter, as the roads start to glaze over with ice and hard pack, my Z goes into my enclosed car hauler (I then crawl out of the car and try to hop out the back without scratching the lid or twisting an ankle), I strap her in, pull the battery, lock her up.....then the trailer goes into a storage building. Pretty handy having the enclosed trailer for storage.
Originally Posted by Fred@ReverseLogic
Dedicated trailer ramp models like the RR-TR-5 or combo service/ trailer ramps like the RLL-80-2 have a reinforced step where you rest the existing metal trailer ramps or trailer door. If you flip the incline section of regular RR service ramps over and you rest the metal ramps on the interconnect area you are likely to damage the ramps. It would be better if you used a 6"x14" piece of plywood between the metal ramps and the RR ramps.
I had no idea you made ramps for trailers.... I'll look into getting a set. I was going to build transition ramps out of plywood and high density foam. Sounds like I don't need to.
The scale drawings at this link will give you an idea of the range of trailer ramps available from Race Ramps. The solid black models are standard Race Ramps products and the "outlined" models are the trailer ramps that Race Ramps makes for Reverse Logic.
I had no idea you made ramps for trailers.... I'll look into getting a set. I was going to build transition ramps out of plywood and high density foam. Sounds like I don't need to.
Depending on what part of the country you live in, there are numerous trailer companies that will custom make a trailer for you to your specs. Whether you want a steel trailer or aluminum is up to you and how much money you want to spend. I would get one with a dove tail and tie downs made into the bed.
I found this trailer on CL a few months back, paid $11k for it which I thought was fair considering the specs (gooseneck, has everything... generator, power landing gear, a/c, heater, air compressor, workbenches, tool boxes, winch, tons of lighting inside and out, air and 120v power plumbed everywhere blah blah blah)
I purchased this trailer because I am absolutely paranoid about being stranded at a track with a broken car. Even if it's something simple like a half shaft, a tire, or end links... you cant drive it home which could be hundreds of miles away. I think it is super overkill for my needs but... **** it.
My recommendation is do a search on CL within 100 miles of your location and look at it every day for a year, eventually something nice will show up.
(BTW, winching the car into position is about a billion times easier than driving it there then crawling out of the window. If you buy a user trailer do a full inspection of the winch mounting and consider switching to synthetic rope on the winch as it is a lot nicer to deal with than wire rope, and stronger to boot.)
Last edited by carefulnow; 09-18-2015 at 10:44 PM.
02-17-2015, 12:17 AM
