djfury05

Ok well next order of business to get proper measurements. These cars are a bitch to turn over by hand with the steering rack in the way. My 24mm socket is not even close to fitting on crank bolt. I can only use an adjustable crescent wrench and its a pain in the ***. Any solutions to this at the local parts store?

Should I be worried that these 8.015 PR's were too long and PTV clearance was not enough and valves hit pistons? When I was un-torquing the rockers some of the springs when fully compressed appeared to have been tilted until I removed the torque and spring came up. Could have just been the way I was looking at it but idk. Now I'm worried.

Mark2009

I have a long metric box end wrench that fits the OEM crank bolt. Harbor Freight, baby!

djfury05

My favorite store.. only it's an hour away.

Just tried the 24mm socket on the large alternator nut CCW and that seems to be working easily.

djfury05

Ok after a lot of reading and finding terminology that I could absolutely have no doubt in understanding.. I've got new PR measurements for one cylinder so far. Using EO,IC method vice TDC method this time.

Cylinder #1 EXH Avg - 7.915 INT Avg 7.90066666667.

Wow.. that's a huge difference in what I originally had. I was extra careful making sure to just barely contact valve stem with rocker pad and PR with rocker cup.

djfury05

Cylinder #3 EXH Avg - 7.9143 INT Avg - 7.90416666667

Cylinder #5 EXH Avg - 7.9143 INT Avg - 7.9035

Cylinder #7 EXH Avg - 7.9145 INT Avg - 7.90366666667

I need to go back and redo cylinder #1 INT. I believe I need to compress the exhaust spring more to account for cam overlap. It's off by roughly .003+/- from other Avg's.

If these aren't the correct results I give up.

Chiron

1. Your desire to work on your own engine is very respectable.
2. Do you have any qualified Vette builders nearby?

If so, you are so close. I would want my car back now. Towing is such a drag though. Someone who does this everyday is going to make it right really quick. Button up, finish, tune.. Done!

Shouldn't cost that much.

djfury05

I've got a couple shops like 1.5 hrs away. None that are very big or forum sponsors though. I've done all the work up to this point I'm going to see it through lol. I have definitely found my weak spot though, measuring PR length.

I'm busy all day tomorrow so I will measure the passenger side bank on Monday and compare to driver's side. If all is well I will re-order pushrods asap and get it going, they literally are the last piece of the puzzle now.

Before I get a tune I will be adding an Alky Control meth kit that I've yet to purchase as well.

I just hope and pray that the 8.015 PR's didn't cause PTV interference and valves hit pistons. When I was rotating the engine by hand with the 8.015 PR's installed to locate EO IC, the engine did not bind up at all, but at the bottom of spring bind there is a consistent noise when the spring just starts to recover. Not sure what it is, maybe something related to lifters being completely compressed and bottom of plunger and recovering. It is definitely coming from that area though. Let's hope nothing serious...

Mark2009

Since I belatedly see this is all DIY/previous mods, have you checked spring install height (or know it) and made sure you have no coil bind issues (do you know the lift on the cam and the specs on the springs?)?

djfury05

This is the cam. .650/.660 lift with 1.8 ratio rockers.
http://www.compcams.com/Company/CC/c...csid=1419&sb=0

These are the springs that come on WCCH Stage 2 heads. http://www.briantooleyracing.com/660...ers-sk001.html

I do not know installed height. I don't have a good ruler here but I will give it a shot and report back when I know.

Mark2009

Ruler won't cut it, need a special tool, call WCCH and see if they know or what they usually use. You should be okay (~ 1,800") unless they did something unusual.

Mark2009

Ruler won't cut it , need a special tool, call WCCH and see if they know or what they usually use for install ht (edit: probably on the receipt if you have one). You should be okay (~ 1.800") unless they did something unusual.
.

djfury05

Yea I don't have a valve spring micrometer so figured a good ruler would help in a pinch but I don't have one of those either lol. I'll call Richard @ WCCH Monday and ask.

Thanks for all of your replies I appreciate the advice.

stefuel

This whole thread bothers me. One post mentions no compression. Another noted some noise. Right about now I'd have all the rockers off.
Then first try to manually depress each valve to check for binding. Then I would try to pressurize each cylinder with compressed air to insure all valves are seated. If you can't make pressure with the rockers off, you probably have had valve to piston contact resulting in bent valves. Then I would pull all the spark plugs and inspect the tops of the pistons with a scope for signs of valve contact.

Chiron

The problem has already been diagnosed. His custom pushrods were to long allowing the valves to stay open thus no compression. Now he is trying to figure out the correct length pushrod. This is complicated for him because of his aftermarket lifters, cam and milled heads.

stefuel

I have been inserting the pushrod close to or fully compressed into the hole for measurements.

Is he fully compressing the dry lifter thinking this is zero lash?

Chiron

I got tired and my wife was irritated at my interest in this thread. I had to go watch a movie. Not sure where he ended up but by the looks of it, he may have decided that special tools were required.

djfury05

The pushrod CHECKER was inserted close to or fully compressed aka close to the minimum length of 7.800". This is so when I install the rockers that it does not come into contact with the rocker and depress the lifter cup AT ALL skewing the length results when I am adjusting the pushrod checker in the hole.

I didn't get any special tools. I followed Mark2009's order of steps for measuring pushrod length and re-measured all of the cylinders on the drivers bank and my results are posted above. They are significantly shorter lengths now that I am not depressing the lifter cup by accident.

The only special tool required would be the valve spring micrometer to check installed spring height. But I'm going to call Richard @ WCCH on Monday and ask for that number. He should be able to tell me immediately since they do so many of the heads this way.

Chiron

Good luck. Keep us posted.

djfury05

Will do. Once I get the passenger side measured I will do a compression check on each cylinder with rockers/pushrods removed to check for bent valves as well and report back.

djfury05

Sorry should have said a simple leakdown test. If the valves have been bent from PTV issues then air would escape and gauge would show this.