Michael_D

I just notice your earlier post. I am not familiar with these particular lifters. You said "shorter travel"... Do you know what the total plunger travel is? Short travel lifters, generally, do not have much travel in them at all, like fifteen thou or so. They are actually "cheater" lifters for some race classes where the rules forbid solid lifters.... They generally (again with the generally term), require adjustable rockers because the travel is so short.

djfury05

Its a semi limited travel lifter (.093) with pressurized axle oiling.

Michael_D

That’s a lot more than I was expecting. Still not very forgiving though, as you have found out.

djfury05

Yea they have another version that is (.058) but I went with these per Tony's recommendation.

I'm very confident with the new pushrods this time that they are correctly sized.

Tony @ Mamo Motorsports

Its a good thing I recommended these or the OP might have had piston to valve contact when he bumped the engine over!

These are what I call my semi limited travel lifters and they are in fact more forgiving in regards to pushrod length which is a plus for a guy that doesn't do this for a living and might be off in his measurements etc.

Believe it or not though this is half the distance of a stock lifter which is normally .180 - .200 travel.

The really short travel lifters aren't really street friendly.....they are more cheater lifters meant for racing classes that are forced to run a "hydraulic" lifter and usually require a heavier rocker with an adjuster to get the preload just right.

They wont compensate for much temperature difference and pushrod length variance at all. I do offer a full limited travel (.058) that still acts like a conventional lifter (no noise....still forgiving for numerous variables in a running engine), but it requires even more exacting pushrod dimensions as your window or error is almost half of what the OP is running. Its the lifter I typically use in an engine Im going to buzz pretty hard but I'm **** on my pushrod measurements and have done it more times than I can remember so its alot easier for a guy like me to get the measurements right the first time.

Anyway....the OP got an education here that would be valuable should he build another engine or even help a buddy build one....I'm looking forward to this engine firing up finally and while I'm here I would also mention that after it does and the engine is good and warm, that's the time to double check that one cylinder that had a higher leak percentage....I suspect it will be alot lower with a warmed up engine.

Regards,
Tony

djfury05

Pushrods arriving today. Will update accordingly later this evening.

djfury05

Pushrods received and installed. Did compression check on #1 cylinder and got a little under 240 psi.

Finished up the installation of all the rest of the stuff and went to fire it.....





...And it started right up 50 psi of oil! Sounded great! Good bit of fumes in the garage from finger prints all over the headers so I'm airing it out now and adding more coolant and it should be good to go for some miles and tuning.

bd4airman11

Congratulations !!!!!! Well done....I knew you would get it...now get a tune and you're off and running....Yaaaaaaaaaaa

Z06_1

Great job man! How close were the PR's on preload?

I figured (hoping, even offered that dumb comment about the ring gaps lining up) that your leak-down test was faulty.

djfury05

Appreciate it Hopefully by the end of the month all said and done.
My first impression after sitting in the car with the windows up are that they are dead quiet, so the preload must be about perfect on them now. Before with the LS7 lifters I could hear them windows up they were obnoxiously loud. I wasn't able to get it out of the garage now that it's raining but I will tomorrow and see what it sounds like without all the garage echoes.

Vito.A

Congrats! We're all cheering for you.

stefuel

AHHHhhhhhhhhh..............I love the smell of horsepower in the morning