[Z06] Knocking/Loud Ticking Noise on cold start up
03-01-2015, 07:54 PM
#1
Instructor
Thread Starter
Knocking/Loud Ticking Noise on cold start up
Yes I have "searched the forum" for this and I couldnt find a resolution.
Im on my third engine for my '08 Z. First one dropped a valve, second was one from the bad batch of 2013 engines that (I believe) had bad rod bearings (lots of play with rods of crank) that made the engine basically eat itself up. On my third engine now and it runs great. Fingers crossed!
BUT, I noticed recently on cold starts (been below 30 degrees overnight) that there is a fairly loud noise coming from the engine compartment for around 30 seconds. Its loud enough that I was about 20 feet from the car when I thought, "d*mn what is that?". But as I walked back to the car it gradually went away. By the time I had my hood popped it was gone. Just today it made the same noise. Again, it was real cold over night.
Since I never noticed the noise during warm weather, the only thing I can come up with is that the car is having a hard time getting oil up top when it gets cold. Oil levels are fine btw. Made the noise before and after an oil change.
Im kind of a hypochondriac when it come to my cars health and I hear and feel everything. Especially having one engine kaboom and another eat itself. Im a little bothered by this because I dont know what it is, and I dont know if Im doing damage on cold starts.
Now that you've read that novel, has anyone had this problem or is it just normal noise when a cold engine is trying to circulate oil?
Im on my third engine for my '08 Z. First one dropped a valve, second was one from the bad batch of 2013 engines that (I believe) had bad rod bearings (lots of play with rods of crank) that made the engine basically eat itself up. On my third engine now and it runs great. Fingers crossed!
BUT, I noticed recently on cold starts (been below 30 degrees overnight) that there is a fairly loud noise coming from the engine compartment for around 30 seconds. Its loud enough that I was about 20 feet from the car when I thought, "d*mn what is that?". But as I walked back to the car it gradually went away. By the time I had my hood popped it was gone. Just today it made the same noise. Again, it was real cold over night.
Since I never noticed the noise during warm weather, the only thing I can come up with is that the car is having a hard time getting oil up top when it gets cold. Oil levels are fine btw. Made the noise before and after an oil change.
Im kind of a hypochondriac when it come to my cars health and I hear and feel everything. Especially having one engine kaboom and another eat itself. Im a little bothered by this because I dont know what it is, and I dont know if Im doing damage on cold starts.
Now that you've read that novel, has anyone had this problem or is it just normal noise when a cold engine is trying to circulate oil?
03-01-2015, 08:17 PM
#2
Had an issue like that with my wife's jeep. Had changed the oil and used an oil filter that I normally don't use cause they were out of ours. Next morning on start up it sounded like the motor was knocking. Would be all right after the first start up for the rest of the day. Ended up the oil filter was letting the oil drain back after sitting for a while and causing a dry start.
03-01-2015, 08:40 PM
#5
Instructor
Thread Starter
I havent looked at the oil pressure right at startup, but cruising around cold it ranges from 50-70 keeping RPMS low until warm of course. When its hot the oil pressure is fine. In fact, its higher than it was with the other two engines. Sits about about 30 PSI at 190 degree oil temp and 50 psi at cruising speed.
03-01-2015, 09:19 PM
#6
Safety Car
These cars are not supposed to make "Loud ticking noises" under any circumstances that are good. If you don't know what it is "Tow it" To someone that can figure it out. By now I'm sure you know how expensive this stuff is. Good luck and I hope it's nothing too serious.
03-01-2015, 09:59 PM
#7
Melting Slicks
From your description it does sound like one or more hydraulic lifters not pumping up immediately.
If you are still under warranty it's time to take it in for proper diagnosis. They will probably want you to leave it overnight so it's cold in the morning.
If you are still under warranty it's time to take it in for proper diagnosis. They will probably want you to leave it overnight so it's cold in the morning.
03-01-2015, 10:34 PM
#8
Instructor
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Mine does a tick like noise in start up as we'll but it was more under the car I came to the conclusion that it was a exhaust leak right where the header connects to the pipe .... Was more like a rattle like noise than a tick ...maybe that's your problem
03-02-2015, 09:51 AM
#9
Le Mans Master
FWIW I would follow the advice given above about having the noise checked out….Considering the issues you have had with LS7's engines, I would think that you would have to stick with Mobil 1 5W-30 and a AC declo filter or equivalent, even if you drive in very cold temps. I do not use Z06 pretty much in any temp under 40 but have used a Mobil 1 filter since new and I have been using Mobil 1 0W-40 European Formula for the last 2 years..I prefer the True Synthetic Group IV which Mobil 1 0W-40 is which Mobil 1 5W-30 is not (Group III+ highly refined dino oil in the USA only). I also prefer better flow at cold temps where most engine wear occurs..0W versus 5W.
Since I don't drive my Z often-it sits for days/weeks at a time-I discovered and use the GM flood procedure whenever I start the car after a sustained period of sitting. Foot to the floor on the gas pedal and hit the start button at the same time, holding the gas pedal to the floor-If you lift off the gas, the engine will start. The engine starter will spin the motor without starting unless you lift your foot off the gas. I usually let it spin for 5-8 seconds a time (2-3 cycles) until the oil pressure comes up on the gauge. You stop the starter with the start button, hitting the off position (downward). Once the pressure is normal, I let the engine fire as it normally would. This procedure stopped much of the valve train clatter on my LS7 on cold start.
Since I don't drive my Z often-it sits for days/weeks at a time-I discovered and use the GM flood procedure whenever I start the car after a sustained period of sitting. Foot to the floor on the gas pedal and hit the start button at the same time, holding the gas pedal to the floor-If you lift off the gas, the engine will start. The engine starter will spin the motor without starting unless you lift your foot off the gas. I usually let it spin for 5-8 seconds a time (2-3 cycles) until the oil pressure comes up on the gauge. You stop the starter with the start button, hitting the off position (downward). Once the pressure is normal, I let the engine fire as it normally would. This procedure stopped much of the valve train clatter on my LS7 on cold start.
Last edited by jb78L-82; 03-02-2015 at 09:54 AM.
03-02-2015, 04:39 PM
#10
Team Owner
FWIW I would follow the advice given above about having the noise checked out….Considering the issues you have had with LS7's engines, I would think that you would have to stick with Mobil 1 5W-30 and a AC declo filter or equivalent, even if you drive in very cold temps. I do not use Z06 pretty much in any temp under 40 but have used a Mobil 1 filter since new and I have been using Mobil 1 0W-40 European Formula for the last 2 years..I prefer the True Synthetic Group IV which Mobil 1 0W-40 is which Mobil 1 5W-30 is not (Group III+ highly refined dino oil in the USA only). I also prefer better flow at cold temps where most engine wear occurs..0W versus 5W.
Since I don't drive my Z often-it sits for days/weeks at a time-I discovered and use the GM flood procedure whenever I start the car after a sustained period of sitting. Foot to the floor on the gas pedal and hit the start button at the same time, holding the gas pedal to the floor-If you lift off the gas, the engine will start. The engine starter will spin the motor without starting unless you lift your foot off the gas. I usually let it spin for 5-8 seconds a time (2-3 cycles) until the oil pressure comes up on the gauge. You stop the starter with the start button, hitting the off position (downward). Once the pressure is normal, I let the engine fire as it normally would. This procedure stopped much of the valve train clatter on my LS7 on cold start.
Since I don't drive my Z often-it sits for days/weeks at a time-I discovered and use the GM flood procedure whenever I start the car after a sustained period of sitting. Foot to the floor on the gas pedal and hit the start button at the same time, holding the gas pedal to the floor-If you lift off the gas, the engine will start. The engine starter will spin the motor without starting unless you lift your foot off the gas. I usually let it spin for 5-8 seconds a time (2-3 cycles) until the oil pressure comes up on the gauge. You stop the starter with the start button, hitting the off position (downward). Once the pressure is normal, I let the engine fire as it normally would. This procedure stopped much of the valve train clatter on my LS7 on cold start.
DH
03-02-2015, 05:05 PM
#11
Burning Brakes
FWIW I would follow the advice given above about having the noise checked out….Considering the issues you have had with LS7's engines, I would think that you would have to stick with Mobil 1 5W-30 and a AC declo filter or equivalent, even if you drive in very cold temps. I do not use Z06 pretty much in any temp under 40 but have used a Mobil 1 filter since new and I have been using Mobil 1 0W-40 European Formula for the last 2 years..I prefer the True Synthetic Group IV which Mobil 1 0W-40 is which Mobil 1 5W-30 is not (Group III+ highly refined dino oil in the USA only). I also prefer better flow at cold temps where most engine wear occurs..0W versus 5W.
Since I don't drive my Z often-it sits for days/weeks at a time-I discovered and use the GM flood procedure whenever I start the car after a sustained period of sitting. Foot to the floor on the gas pedal and hit the start button at the same time, holding the gas pedal to the floor-If you lift off the gas, the engine will start. The engine starter will spin the motor without starting unless you lift your foot off the gas. I usually let it spin for 5-8 seconds a time (2-3 cycles) until the oil pressure comes up on the gauge. You stop the starter with the start button, hitting the off position (downward). Once the pressure is normal, I let the engine fire as it normally would. This procedure stopped much of the valve train clatter on my LS7 on cold start.
Since I don't drive my Z often-it sits for days/weeks at a time-I discovered and use the GM flood procedure whenever I start the car after a sustained period of sitting. Foot to the floor on the gas pedal and hit the start button at the same time, holding the gas pedal to the floor-If you lift off the gas, the engine will start. The engine starter will spin the motor without starting unless you lift your foot off the gas. I usually let it spin for 5-8 seconds a time (2-3 cycles) until the oil pressure comes up on the gauge. You stop the starter with the start button, hitting the off position (downward). Once the pressure is normal, I let the engine fire as it normally would. This procedure stopped much of the valve train clatter on my LS7 on cold start.
03-03-2015, 09:29 AM
#13
Since I don't drive my Z often-it sits for days/weeks at a time-I discovered and use the GM flood procedure whenever I start the car after a sustained period of sitting. Foot to the floor on the gas pedal and hit the start button at the same time, holding the gas pedal to the floor-If you lift off the gas, the engine will start. The engine starter will spin the motor without starting unless you lift your foot off the gas. I usually let it spin for 5-8 seconds a time (2-3 cycles) until the oil pressure comes up on the gauge. You stop the starter with the start button, hitting the off position (downward). Once the pressure is normal, I let the engine fire as it normally would. This procedure stopped much of the valve train clatter on my LS7 on cold start.
The cold ticking/clatter that goes away quickly, is most likely a lifter that has larger internal clearances than spec. So after the engine is shut down, it bleeds down. When oil pressure is increased after the engine fires, it pumps up again - noise goes away. Not an alarming thing to worry about, but in my experience, things that make noises that they shouldn't make, rarely shut up. They just get noisier and more aggravating.
03-03-2015, 10:17 AM
#14
Safety Car
Member Since: Dec 1999
Location: Virginia Beach, VA & Port Charlotte, FL (snowbird)
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You can manually push the starter relay contacts pictured here. It will engage the starter without triggering fuel or spark. The relay cover pops off easily with a "tweeker" screw driver. I found it invaluable when doing my wiggle test.
03-03-2015, 12:22 PM
#15
[/QUOTE]
You can manually push the starter relay contacts pictured here. It will engage the starter without triggering fuel or spark. The relay cover pops off easily with a "tweeker" screw driver. I found it invaluable when doing my wiggle test.[/QUOTE]
Thanks. That can come in handy for lots of uses! Also i had forgotten about holding pedal to the floor.
You can manually push the starter relay contacts pictured here. It will engage the starter without triggering fuel or spark. The relay cover pops off easily with a "tweeker" screw driver. I found it invaluable when doing my wiggle test.[/QUOTE]
Thanks. That can come in handy for lots of uses! Also i had forgotten about holding pedal to the floor.
03-04-2015, 01:26 PM
#16
Melting Slicks
FWIW I would follow the advice given above about having the noise checked out….Considering the issues you have had with LS7's engines, I would think that you would have to stick with Mobil 1 5W-30 and a AC declo filter or equivalent, even if you drive in very cold temps. I do not use Z06 pretty much in any temp under 40 but have used a Mobil 1 filter since new and I have been using Mobil 1 0W-40 European Formula for the last 2 years..I prefer the True Synthetic Group IV which Mobil 1 0W-40 is which Mobil 1 5W-30 is not (Group III+ highly refined dino oil in the USA only). I also prefer better flow at cold temps where most engine wear occurs..0W versus 5W.
Since I don't drive my Z often-it sits for days/weeks at a time-I discovered and use the GM flood procedure whenever I start the car after a sustained period of sitting. Foot to the floor on the gas pedal and hit the start button at the same time, holding the gas pedal to the floor-If you lift off the gas, the engine will start. The engine starter will spin the motor without starting unless you lift your foot off the gas. I usually let it spin for 5-8 seconds a time (2-3 cycles) until the oil pressure comes up on the gauge. You stop the starter with the start button, hitting the off position (downward). Once the pressure is normal, I let the engine fire as it normally would. This procedure stopped much of the valve train clatter on my LS7 on cold start.
Since I don't drive my Z often-it sits for days/weeks at a time-I discovered and use the GM flood procedure whenever I start the car after a sustained period of sitting. Foot to the floor on the gas pedal and hit the start button at the same time, holding the gas pedal to the floor-If you lift off the gas, the engine will start. The engine starter will spin the motor without starting unless you lift your foot off the gas. I usually let it spin for 5-8 seconds a time (2-3 cycles) until the oil pressure comes up on the gauge. You stop the starter with the start button, hitting the off position (downward). Once the pressure is normal, I let the engine fire as it normally would. This procedure stopped much of the valve train clatter on my LS7 on cold start.
03-04-2015, 08:29 PM
#17
Drifting
I was wondering about making a button for just this. Thank you.
03-05-2015, 11:35 AM
#20
Le Mans Master
I started using this procedure once I figured out how to do it for cold starts about 3 years ago after sustained periods of the car sitting-weeks/months (like now in the winter-have not started/driven the Z since early December..too much snow here in the Northeast. Most engine wear occurs at cold start even for DD cars...