[Z06] Got my Oil Lab results from Blackstone, Should I be concerened?
#1
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Got my Oil Lab results from Blackstone, Should I be concerened?
Just got my lab results from Blackstone and it turns out I may have some excessive metal in my oil. They also mention that it may be due to recent mods. I did do the heads and cam recently, can this be the case?
here is what the labs said
ROBERT: There's quite a bit of metal in this sample from your Corvette. If any work was done recently, maybe some of this wear-in. If not, then there could be trouble on the horizon. Iron is from steel parts like
shafts cylinders, and exhaust vales. Cooper is from brass/bronze, and titanium might show intake valve or connecting rod wear, if it's not an additive from an oil you were using in the recent past. Silicon could be
abrasive dirt, so check the air filter for leaks issues. Averages how typical wear after 3,200 miles. The
TBN is good, but use a shorter run to monitor tends.
here is what the labs said
ROBERT: There's quite a bit of metal in this sample from your Corvette. If any work was done recently, maybe some of this wear-in. If not, then there could be trouble on the horizon. Iron is from steel parts like
shafts cylinders, and exhaust vales. Cooper is from brass/bronze, and titanium might show intake valve or connecting rod wear, if it's not an additive from an oil you were using in the recent past. Silicon could be
abrasive dirt, so check the air filter for leaks issues. Averages how typical wear after 3,200 miles. The
TBN is good, but use a shorter run to monitor tends.
#3
Did your shop flush out the oil after the heads and cam? My shop did that and ran it for a few miles before putting in good stuff. I guess it was to help pull out any debris or contaminants after the install.
#4
Melting Slicks
I'd like to see the report also, I see why so many people recommend them, that is very detailed as opposed to getting a paper with a bunch of numbers. I would show to engine builder and go from there, good luck.
#6
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
i did a full oil change when I did the heads and Cam but not nessasaraly a flush. I will do that his time when I put it all back together after the super charger install.
Ill put another 1500 miles and re sample again
Ill put another 1500 miles and re sample again
#8
Race Director
Part of the reason GM has the new Z06's do a 500 mile oil change is the oil flushes out the little bits left after production. I am no expert on engine mods, but it would make sense that similar "debris" get attached and hidden with the mods. Doing an early post-mod oil change and then sampling that new oil part way into your normal oil changes is a good way to get peace of mind.
I use Blackstone at each normal oil change and will use the process above when I do mods unless my engine builder recommends a different process. The numbers in bold are higher than the readings I've seen on my LS7 even after 6K+ miles and several road circuit events on M1 0W-40. Some of the non-metallic readings can be due to use of a different oil.
I use Blackstone at each normal oil change and will use the process above when I do mods unless my engine builder recommends a different process. The numbers in bold are higher than the readings I've seen on my LS7 even after 6K+ miles and several road circuit events on M1 0W-40. Some of the non-metallic readings can be due to use of a different oil.
#10
Part of the reason GM has the new Z06's do a 500 mile oil change is the oil flushes out the little bits left after production. I am no expert on engine mods, but it would make sense that similar "debris" get attached and hidden with the mods. Doing an early post-mod oil change and then sampling that new oil part way into your normal oil changes is a good way to get peace of mind.
I use Blackstone at each normal oil change and will use the process above when I do mods unless my engine builder recommends a different process. The numbers in bold are higher than the readings I've seen on my LS7 even after 6K+ miles and several road circuit events on M1 0W-40. Some of the non-metallic readings can be due to use of a different oil.
I use Blackstone at each normal oil change and will use the process above when I do mods unless my engine builder recommends a different process. The numbers in bold are higher than the readings I've seen on my LS7 even after 6K+ miles and several road circuit events on M1 0W-40. Some of the non-metallic readings can be due to use of a different oil.
Silver cloud; from the Fuel percentage, it looks like his tune is decent..
#11
Race Director
#12
Safety Car
The iron is sky high. Especially for an aluminum motor. I just got my last test out and it was 13. I'm at 13000 miles total and about 3000 past the last valve job. I'm trying to think of all the steel pieces in an LS7, not too much....Cam, crank, lifters, cam gear, timing chain?? that's it I guess?
I'd wait on that supercharger till you get this solved.
Good luck!
I'd wait on that supercharger till you get this solved.
Good luck!
#13
Melting Slicks
#14
Race Director
Thanks for the tip, dmuellenberg.
Here's my most recent analysis:
Here's my most recent analysis:
#17
Melting Slicks
I too would also say they are higher than normal from the cam swap.
My iron, copper, and silicon went up after my heads were swapped. I would change the oil and resample after 3-4K miles.
My iron, copper, and silicon went up after my heads were swapped. I would change the oil and resample after 3-4K miles.
#18
Burning Brakes
I just had the guides replaced. Did the work my self. Tried to be as clean as I could but you all know how that goes. This was my thinking.....
I left the old filet in and drained all the oil after putting it back together but before starting it up. I even pulled the line off the dry sump.
I keep buying the Mobel1 when its on sale with a free filter. I didn't want to use some cheap oil and try and save $10 and get it all mixed.
I started the car and let it idle up to full temp.
I'm just going to do a oil change now. Oil has about 20 min of idle time. (I will save the oil and use it in my lawn mower.)
I think I will send out a sample to, just to see and do a base line.
I left the old filet in and drained all the oil after putting it back together but before starting it up. I even pulled the line off the dry sump.
I keep buying the Mobel1 when its on sale with a free filter. I didn't want to use some cheap oil and try and save $10 and get it all mixed.
I started the car and let it idle up to full temp.
I'm just going to do a oil change now. Oil has about 20 min of idle time. (I will save the oil and use it in my lawn mower.)
I think I will send out a sample to, just to see and do a base line.
#19
Le Mans Master
Nice report. I have been using Mobil 1 0W-40 European Formula, NOT Mobil 1 5W-30, in my 10Z06 for 3 years now…good validation of using the Mobil 0W-40, true Group IV synthetic, instead of the 5W-30 group III+ "synthetic" highly refined conventional oil (USA only). Thanks
#20
Drifting