Z0-SICK

I just wanted to post some before and after pics of the Z with 12mm or 1/2" spacers and longer studs. I called around to a couple different places listed on here and couldn't get the answers I needed. Luckily I stumbled across Motorsport Tech and Lenny. He knew exactly what I wanted and took care of my order fast. I received everything within a week and slapped it all on in one day.

I had to remove all four hubs to get the studs in through the back. This isn't an easy job even if your mechanically inclined. The most difficult thing is the lower knuckle ball joint. I picked up a cheap separator for HF but it was too small for this BJ. Do yourself a favor and get the right tool. The studs went in easy with a little PB Blaster and a Dewalt Impact, not the automotive impact, the smaller one. It worked perfect for this and didn't spin the studs. They came out super easy with a cheap HF air hammer. Hit me up if you need details.

I told Lenny that I wanted to be able to still use my factory lug nuts and he assured me they would be perfect and they were.

Lenny
Motorsport Technology
(775) 351-1000
motorsportjr@gmail.com

First set of pics are before

Z0-SICK

After

Z0-SICK

more

MUKAK

looking good!! now you need ZR1 side skirts

markzeronine

Looks badass. Are those 285/345 mpss or do the spacers just give that illusion with stock tires? I have the previously mentioned combo on my car lowered all the way down. I don't think I could put a spacer on the rear without ripping the fender apart. The front looks very sunken to me though. If they're 345s do you think you'd be able to lower the car without rubbing issues in the rear?

PhilT3

Nice! Should've came like that from GM!

Z0-SICK

Thx, ZR1 spoiler and side skirts to follow for sure. Taking a serious look at the extended spoiler.

Z0-SICK

Your 100% correct 285 / 345 mpss. Actually I lowered it on the stock spacers at the same time and it has plenty of clearance. I was also worried that with the spacers and lowering that I would run into some rubbing but so far after a week of settling it's good.

I was more concerned with the rear because the front tires are recessed more than the rears. However, it turned out okay. The drive to my and from my house is pretty intense with some decent turns at above 60mph both declining and inclining etc and I have yet to hear any rubbing.

Z0-SICK

+1

usmcpony

These look good. What was the total for everything? Also, the original hub is 1/2". How exactly does the spacers slip on? Thanks

Z0-SICK

Out the door with 2 day UPS was around $260. Spacers were $45 ea. and the studs $3 ea.

There are three #55 hex bolts holding the hub on the knuckle. The real problem is the bottom one can't be accessed because the lower ball joint is blocking it. If it wasn't for that then everything could remain intact and you could just remove the hub to put the studs on.

Once the studs are pressed in and everything is reassembled the spacer goes in between the hub and the rim.

Let me share a couple a pointers that I learned the hard way and didn't read anywhere.

1 - find the correct ball joint remover

2 - some bolts require blue and red thread lock. Take some time and clean them real good before you put them back on.

3 - Zip Tie the CV axle to the upper control arm and out of your way. I left it dangling around and accidentally pinched the boot. Well guess what that boot isn't sold at any of the local chains and is $85 at the dealership. That's for 1 boot!

4 - the hex bolts that hold the hub to the knuckle go back in the same hole they came out of or you will be fighting a tough battle on the lower one when it comes to torquing them.

5 - My axle nut was surprisingly loose. When it goes back on its torqued to 140 ft lbs, and needs red thread lock.

6 - make sure your car is off the ground enough to give you room to pull hard on the torque wrench from under the car.


That's all I can think off for now. I'll add to the list if I remember anything else.

markzeronine

Cool, thanks for the info. I don't know if I want to tackle another project, everything I've done on this car has fought me and turned into 2 weekend affairs when they should have been one afternoon type of jobs lol. I would love to though

Z0-SICK

Yea I've almost put my foot into it a couple times. I was installing headers and an exhaust on my last Vette and under the car cursing up a storm when my wife stormed into the garage because she thought I was about to fight someone, lol.

vteclol

Looks awesome! I am definitely doing this mod this spring.

k9molly813

Looks great, do you get any wobble.

Brandon619

"Zip Tie the CV axle to the upper control arm and out of your way. I left it dangling around and accidentally pinched the boot. Well guess what that boot isn't sold at any of the local chains and is $85 at the dealership. That's for 1 boot!"

I've experienced this issue on my C5 Z06. I nicked the boot and didn't realize it until it was too late. I bought the boot kit online for a decent price but it never got installed correctly so I ended up purchasing a complete need Axle lesson learned.

Z0-SICK

Not yet, I've been up to about 90 on the hwy. tomorrow we have some nice weather so I'm going for a drive on a local hwy here where the speed limit is 85 which translates into 105 :-)

Z0-SICK

Yea I was pretty ticked. A few year ago I was replacing a ball joint on my wife's car and had everything put back together and realized I had somehow knicked the boot. I almost popped a blood vessel. I wasn't about to replace it again so I cleaned it real good and used a bicycle tire repair kit. It worked great and when we traded a it in a few year later inspected it and it was still holding up.

Brandon619

A tire repair kit is a great idea, I'll have to keep that in mind the next time I run into that situation again. That GM boot kit was a pain in the *** to install and it never sealed correctly.

LFZ

Looks good...I've ran spacers on my other car (non vette) and while they looked great, they vibrated like crazy and wobbled my tires bald within a year every time. Ran 8mm and 10mm....ran custom made spacers with a bigger lip to seat the wheel and nothing worked. I finally said forget it and took them off. The wheels pushed out looks great...especially if lowered.