[Z06] Budget Build: Stock to 600whp under $3k?
#21
Melting Slicks
Pro Mechanic
Member Since: Nov 2013
Location: Ex DPRK, now just N of Medford, OR
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Spend some time reading the various cylinder head/camshaft/valve train threads here. I've found posts by Vito A and Michael D to be EXTREMELY insightful... my $.02
I'm skeptical about 600NA hp on stock exhaust...
I'm skeptical about 600NA hp on stock exhaust...
#22
Heel & Toe
Thread Starter
Vito A nailed it. The heads need to be addressed.
The car makes 505 hp now. Its already a rocketship. A few $$ spent on sticky tires and some driving lessons would pay huge dividends. Learning to drive the car REALLY fast on a track would be way more rewarding then another 100hp. Street tires barely can handle the power output now at 6000 rpms plus. When you can keep the throttle floored 75% of the time, you MIGHT need more HP LOL.
The car makes 505 hp now. Its already a rocketship. A few $$ spent on sticky tires and some driving lessons would pay huge dividends. Learning to drive the car REALLY fast on a track would be way more rewarding then another 100hp. Street tires barely can handle the power output now at 6000 rpms plus. When you can keep the throttle floored 75% of the time, you MIGHT need more HP LOL.
I still drag race my Subaru, and have ran high 11s. I have yet to take the z06 to the track, but I know in it's current setup I couldn't beat my scooby. Even with good rubber, I would have to have a nearly perfect 60 foot and perfect shifting to break into the 11s. The reason I bought the z06 was for it's power potential, and am looking forward to the day I can beat my subaru's time. So, I hope that gave a little more insight into my power motivation lol
#24
600rwhp on Stock intake manifold, No Headers, AND you want maximum drivability? Im seriously doubtful but good luck on your quest. I really think you are going to have to compromise somewhere.
Wise man once said "Cheap, Fast, Good. You can choose only 2"
Wise man once said "Cheap, Fast, Good. You can choose only 2"
#25
Drifting
Yeah aren't most, if not all the 600+whp guys running aftermarket CAI, ported or aftermarket throttle body, intake manifold, big cam, headers, and head porting/milling?
#26
Racer
Good luck on your goals. . Its going to be tough to hit.. i had stock headers with a vararam cai and pretty large cam (widow-R). The car made around 530rwhp.. search widow-R on youtube..i then added milled heads 13/1 and e85 and full exhaust
Car is at 576rwhp.
Car is at 576rwhp.
#28
Drifting
I made 539.63 RWHP with this
Airaid intake - $280
Black Mamba cam - $330
Stock intake manifold/TB
91 octane $2.99 a gallon
Long tube headers/catless x-pipe - $1070
Borla ATAK (I highly doubt it adds any power) - $950
AHP #4 heads, BTR valve springs, .020" milled heads (no porting) - $1,621 shipped after core charges.
And of course a tune
But of course I wanted to address the heads which was my number one goal. All the power in the world doesn't mean squat when you drop a valve. So I spent the rest of my money beefing up the valve train instead of chasing power.
Good luck on your goals
Airaid intake - $280
Black Mamba cam - $330
Stock intake manifold/TB
91 octane $2.99 a gallon
Long tube headers/catless x-pipe - $1070
Borla ATAK (I highly doubt it adds any power) - $950
AHP #4 heads, BTR valve springs, .020" milled heads (no porting) - $1,621 shipped after core charges.
And of course a tune
But of course I wanted to address the heads which was my number one goal. All the power in the world doesn't mean squat when you drop a valve. So I spent the rest of my money beefing up the valve train instead of chasing power.
Good luck on your goals
Last edited by ttx350z; 04-30-2015 at 08:46 AM.
#29
Heel & Toe
Thread Starter
I made 539.63 RWHP with this
Airaid intake - $280
Black Mamba cam - $330
Stock intake manifold/TB
91 octane $2.99 a gallon
Long tube headers/catless x-pipe - $1070
Borla ATAK (I highly doubt it adds any power) - $950
AHP #4 heads, BTR valve springs, .020" milled heads (no porting) - $1,621 shipped after core charges.
And of course a tune
But of course I wanted to address the heads which was my number one goal. All the power in the world doesn't mean squat when you drop a valve. So I spent the rest of my money beefing up the valve train instead of chasing power.
Good luck on your goals
Airaid intake - $280
Black Mamba cam - $330
Stock intake manifold/TB
91 octane $2.99 a gallon
Long tube headers/catless x-pipe - $1070
Borla ATAK (I highly doubt it adds any power) - $950
AHP #4 heads, BTR valve springs, .020" milled heads (no porting) - $1,621 shipped after core charges.
And of course a tune
But of course I wanted to address the heads which was my number one goal. All the power in the world doesn't mean squat when you drop a valve. So I spent the rest of my money beefing up the valve train instead of chasing power.
Good luck on your goals
#30
Heel & Toe
Thread Starter
Not bad at all, I am expecting similar results. 600whp is just an exaggerated estimate, I'm thinking 550 is a bit more realistic with a mild cam.
#32
You are not going to get to 600 with that combo. E85 in lower compression wont give you much. MIne and a few other cars are a prime example. My comp is static 11.42 and I run e85 only because our 91 octane is such garbage. I picked up from 558 to 580whp and 516 to 531tq with e85 at 55%. Timing stopped doing anything past 23 degrees at peak HP. I have very very good heads and a FAST intake. You need to bump that compression and port the heads to really see the e85 make big power like that. Too many people think it is so easy to make a legit 600whp with good torque to back it up with these cars and it is not. Especially if you want it streetable. High compression will require a large cam and then you drivability goes out the window. I wanted solid torque and power with a very streetable cam and that is what I got. Anyone who drives or rides in my car always comments on how fast it feels compared to bigger cam Z's that lose low end due to piston speed and dynamic stroke length loss. All these things play a factor.
You cant just chase peak numbers as most of the time they are meaningless. My car also dynojet that is a bit stingy since it is a brand new one with load control. Several guys that have gone to other shops in So Cal area and claim these big numbers at other vette shops are shocked when they go to my tuner. They are not making the power they think they are. My tuner has tuned 100's of cammed Z's over the years and he will make the statement that mine feels the best out of all of them.
This is also because of my PFadt Tri-Y headers though. They produce better power with my combo than ARH's did. I lost almost 40hp and 40tq with ARH. The reason was compression and my cam. ARH's are great for really high compression big cam cars or FI.
SO do not think it is so easy to get these numbers. You can not make any comparisons to FI and NA cars either with the way they respond to fuel.
You cant just chase peak numbers as most of the time they are meaningless. My car also dynojet that is a bit stingy since it is a brand new one with load control. Several guys that have gone to other shops in So Cal area and claim these big numbers at other vette shops are shocked when they go to my tuner. They are not making the power they think they are. My tuner has tuned 100's of cammed Z's over the years and he will make the statement that mine feels the best out of all of them.
This is also because of my PFadt Tri-Y headers though. They produce better power with my combo than ARH's did. I lost almost 40hp and 40tq with ARH. The reason was compression and my cam. ARH's are great for really high compression big cam cars or FI.
SO do not think it is so easy to get these numbers. You can not make any comparisons to FI and NA cars either with the way they respond to fuel.
#33
Melting Slicks
Yea, the stock run-flats are pretty terrible, but I already have a plan for some good rubber.
I still drag race my Subaru, and have ran high 11s. I have yet to take the z06 to the track, but I know in it's current setup I couldn't beat my scooby. Even with good rubber, I would have to have a nearly perfect 60 foot and perfect shifting to break into the 11s. The reason I bought the z06 was for it's power potential, and am looking forward to the day I can beat my subaru's time. So, I hope that gave a little more insight into my power motivation lol
I still drag race my Subaru, and have ran high 11s. I have yet to take the z06 to the track, but I know in it's current setup I couldn't beat my scooby. Even with good rubber, I would have to have a nearly perfect 60 foot and perfect shifting to break into the 11s. The reason I bought the z06 was for it's power potential, and am looking forward to the day I can beat my subaru's time. So, I hope that gave a little more insight into my power motivation lol
A stock Z06 will beat your Scooby if its only running high 11's. Just sayin.
#34
Drifting
Hello,
I recently purchased a completely stock 2007 z06, and am mapping out my mod list based on cost-per power benefit. I plan to do all installation on my own, which is where the majority of the cost cutting comes from. I also plan to cut out all exhaust modifications, since the true power benefit of headers is still debatable (and everyone knows cat-backs are just noisemakers). The car also has only 17k miles on it, and is up to snuff on all recalls. My goal with the car is to make cheap, reliable power with all motor and maximum drivability for Sunday cruising. So, here is what I came up with:
1. Hi-Flow Air Filter ($79). To be honest, the most restrictive part of the stock Z06 intake is not the intake itself, but the material in the filter. The functionality of the intake with the hood scoop should suffice for any NA motor builds.
2. Lingenfelter GT-19 cam ($386.95). Street-able, and still able to make 520whp with 93.
3. ^ Valve Springs / retainer kit for said cam ($1,175). Some say you can reuse your stock springs, but because of the next mod on my list I would rather pay the monkey now...
4. LMR Houston's e85 kit ($500). This is an interesting kit, as it is able to read your current fuel and adjust your engine parameters accordingly. So, if this works as advistised, it eliminates the need for purchasing a hand-held tuner ($500) and the hassle of having to switch tunes when you cant find e85.
5. LMR custom tune ($550 with e85). I ran e85 in my Scooby, and made roughly 20% more HP and 25% more torque (granted the scooby is FI) than what i did on 93. From what I've seen, it looks to be the same case with the ls7.
6. Head / valve alignment ($1700 quote from LMR). After additional research and comments (thanks guys), it seems like this is an inescapable mod for anyone who wants to make reliable power.
So, for a whopping total of $2611.95 $4311.95, it looks like (on paper at least) I can push 600rwhp. If you have any suggestions or advise, please let me know. Thanks!
I recently purchased a completely stock 2007 z06, and am mapping out my mod list based on cost-per power benefit. I plan to do all installation on my own, which is where the majority of the cost cutting comes from. I also plan to cut out all exhaust modifications, since the true power benefit of headers is still debatable (and everyone knows cat-backs are just noisemakers). The car also has only 17k miles on it, and is up to snuff on all recalls. My goal with the car is to make cheap, reliable power with all motor and maximum drivability for Sunday cruising. So, here is what I came up with:
1. Hi-Flow Air Filter ($79). To be honest, the most restrictive part of the stock Z06 intake is not the intake itself, but the material in the filter. The functionality of the intake with the hood scoop should suffice for any NA motor builds.
2. Lingenfelter GT-19 cam ($386.95). Street-able, and still able to make 520whp with 93.
3. ^ Valve Springs / retainer kit for said cam ($1,175). Some say you can reuse your stock springs, but because of the next mod on my list I would rather pay the monkey now...
4. LMR Houston's e85 kit ($500). This is an interesting kit, as it is able to read your current fuel and adjust your engine parameters accordingly. So, if this works as advistised, it eliminates the need for purchasing a hand-held tuner ($500) and the hassle of having to switch tunes when you cant find e85.
5. LMR custom tune ($550 with e85). I ran e85 in my Scooby, and made roughly 20% more HP and 25% more torque (granted the scooby is FI) than what i did on 93. From what I've seen, it looks to be the same case with the ls7.
6. Head / valve alignment ($1700 quote from LMR). After additional research and comments (thanks guys), it seems like this is an inescapable mod for anyone who wants to make reliable power.
So, for a whopping total of $2611.95 $4311.95, it looks like (on paper at least) I can push 600rwhp. If you have any suggestions or advise, please let me know. Thanks!
07 Z06
- Frankenstein Stg 1 CNC ported, milled (.030") heads
- BTR Stg 4 N/A cam
- Stock intake and tb
- K&N CAI
- B&B Fusion cat back
- Stock exh manifolds and cats
- Monster dual disc 700 hp clutch
- MGW shifter
When I had it tuned it maxed out at 550 RWHP (uncorrected) on a DynoJet with 93 pump and 100% stock exhaust, the B&B Fusions were added afterwards. This setup should make well over 600 RWHP with the correct exhaust. I do not see you making any more than that with stock manifolds, N/A. Im putting Kooks 2" headers and an O/R X-pipe on this weekend and I will go back on the dyno the 11th. I will post up the results after the header install. Mine was built in an unusual order and can settle the "are headers worth it" debate (if there is even one). I fully expect to see around a 60 RWHP gain.
Last edited by v8sten; 04-30-2015 at 04:15 PM.
#36
I don't see a 60rwhp gain from a header swap happening. Maybe with a FAST 102 / 102 also? but even then I find it unlikely.
Here is my .02 cents. first off this is what i have
07 Z06
- Frankenstein Stg 1 CNC ported, milled (.030") heads
- BTR Stg 4 N/A cam
- Stock intake and tb
- K&N CAI
- B&B Fusion cat back
- Stock exh manifolds and cats
- Monster dual disc 700 hp clutch
- MGW shifter
When I had it tuned it maxed out at 550 RWHP (uncorrected) on a DynoJet with 93 pump and 100% stock exhaust, the B&B Fusions were added afterwards. This setup should make well over 600 RWHP with the correct exhaust. I do not see you making any more than that with stock manifolds, N/A. Im putting Kooks 2" headers and an O/R X-pipe on this weekend and I will go back on the dyno the 11th. I will post up the results after the header install. Mine was built in an unusual order and can settle the "are headers worth it" debate (if there is even one). I fully expect to see around a 60 RWHP gain.
07 Z06
- Frankenstein Stg 1 CNC ported, milled (.030") heads
- BTR Stg 4 N/A cam
- Stock intake and tb
- K&N CAI
- B&B Fusion cat back
- Stock exh manifolds and cats
- Monster dual disc 700 hp clutch
- MGW shifter
When I had it tuned it maxed out at 550 RWHP (uncorrected) on a DynoJet with 93 pump and 100% stock exhaust, the B&B Fusions were added afterwards. This setup should make well over 600 RWHP with the correct exhaust. I do not see you making any more than that with stock manifolds, N/A. Im putting Kooks 2" headers and an O/R X-pipe on this weekend and I will go back on the dyno the 11th. I will post up the results after the header install. Mine was built in an unusual order and can settle the "are headers worth it" debate (if there is even one). I fully expect to see around a 60 RWHP gain.
#38
Drifting
#39
Drifting
#40
Burning Brakes
"Wise man once said "Cheap, Fast, Good. You can choose only 2" -AINT THAT THE TRUTH?!
Also,
Don't forget to upgrade your rockers. Buddy just told me about the Trunion upgrade. Which is needed for big cam setups. Stock rockers have needle bearings and with big cams they can come apart and drop those needle bearings in the motor resulting in a trashed motor!
Its recommended for lifts over 600 or 226 duration and up.
E85 and larger injectors are next for me. I did hear that I need a new fuel system but I read here that the stock fuel system is fine... Not sure... I'll have to ask Vengeance racing in Atlanta
Last edited by starchedup; 05-04-2015 at 12:39 PM.