Geared

I have read the instructions, but I didnt install them.

I want to lower the car more. I would say somewhat "very low" as the instructions suggests.

What is the easiest/quickest way to properly do this? Given I didnt do the install - How do I know whether to adjust the spring pre-load or extend the body length?

As per LG's instructions -

There are two ways to change the ride height of your car with these coil overs. 1.
Via spring pre-load; 2. Via extended body length. As the shocks come to you they have
little to no pre-load in the spring. For heavier cars you may find it needed to increase
pre-load up to ¼” to 3/8”. Extended lengths are set for a slight drop in height, for those
wanting to drop the car very low you will need to screw these pieces together almost all
the way. NOTE: Make sure the lower part is not connected to the lower control arm. By
turning the shock inside the mount you may loose the top mount.

548chevelle

The LG coil springs are OK for track and maybe 95% of street driving. But occasionally I would hit a nasty bump and the rear springs would completely bind and you would lose a few teeth. Turns out the springs are 6" long and compressed to 4" installed. With coil bind at 2 1/2" this leaves only 1 1/2" of travel. There's enough thread on the shock for longer springs so I got some Eibach at 8" long. These give another 1 1/2" of travel and no more bottoming out.

Geared

is there a diy for adjusting the height? im looking for steps, a video, something that will ensure I wont screw up.

j

Geared

lg said I need to remove the big bolt that goes through the bottom of the control arm...but i dont see why i need to do that?

i thought you can simply - loosen jam nut with spanner (bottom adjuster on the base) .....put jam nut where you want ride height to be (i was told 2:1 - does that mean .5" of thread = 1" of ride height, or .5" of thread = .25" of ride height?)....then using spanner on top nut, rotate it down towards the floor.

Please let me know!

LFZ

I have installed these before ....to go low, you have to pretty much shorten the shock body length before install and make your fine tune adjustments using the collars up against the spring. Fine tune adjustments includes no more than 1 or 2 full turns of the spring collar (not the shock body/housing).

Geared

still not feeling comfortable...and Ive adjusted a few coilovers before (mainly KW)

Can someone check out my 6th post above, and lmk re: the ratio, and if what I am saying is correct with respect to the procedure (knowing now that I will remove the lower bolt from the control arm prior to any adjustments.)

Also, when I remove the bolt - I assume I just place a jack under the control arm to hold it in place - or ??

LFZ

Why? Because it will look 1000x better. That's why.

Geared

this is my 2nd z, 2nd low z....and 8th low car....ill be ok.

I appreciate you looking out!

LFZ

Yes...OP knows how to drive a lowered car. It's different....but definitely takes a little know how to get around in a lowered Z.

548chevelle

Eibach 0800-250-0550. 0800=8" length, 250= 2.50" spring diameter, 0550= 550lb rate

LFZ

^good info man. I drive a slammed Z with no problems. Just have to know where to stay away...it's not that bad. I drive to work 1-2 times a week, weekend road trips, and track 5-6 times a year. Yes it's different...yes I'm on my 3rd set of sideskirts (wouldn't have matter if I was lowered or stock), but it's completely worth it when it's done right and looks good.

pkincy

While I too, like mine in the weeds sometimes it just doesn't work. My C4 has coil overs and I had no problem (other than scraping on the convertible XBrace while getting out of my Scottsdale driveway at 0.5 mph on a pure sideways move) in Arizona as the roads are pretty good and they have little enough rain that they don't seem to need large driveway angles. But I had to raise that car 5/8ths of an inch when I moved back to San Diego. So how low the car can go is very dependent on where you live. My Z has a little more ride height lowered on stock bolts but since it doesn't have a sacrificial convertible cross brace like the C4 roadster, I would never consider going lower.

0Anthony @ LGMotorsports

If you try and leave the entire assembly in the car and loosen the jam nut and turn the shock body...there is a chance it can "grab" the upper nut at the top mount and unscrew it depending on which way you are moving the body. Sometimes the piston will spin inside the body and you are free and clear but it isn't worth the risk. Same thing can happen at the front and it will unscrew the upper mount. That is why we always say remove the lower mount from the arm and move then re-assemble.

you can make smaller ride height adjustments at the spring as long as you are not adding a ton of preload to the spring to raise the car.