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[Z06] OEM LS7 Crank different part # & prices. Why?

Old 06-29-2015, 10:48 PM
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lucxy
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Default OEM LS7 Crank different part # & prices. Why?

Looking to get brand new OEM LS7 crank and found 2 part numbers:
12611649 (2009) and 12641692 (2012-2013). Prices are different as well on http://www.cultragfactoryparts.com/c...ame=crankshaft

vs

http://www.cultragfactoryparts.com/c...ame=crankshaft

What is the difference? One is significantly more expensiev as well. Which is one to get?
Old 06-30-2015, 08:27 AM
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erick_e
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Not sure of the difference between the two of them, but for that kind of money you can get a Callies crankshaft.
Old 06-30-2015, 10:14 AM
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Originally Posted by erick_e
Not sure of the difference between the two of them, but for that kind of money you can get a Callies crankshaft.
I found out that 2006-2010 uses different crank shaft and 2011-2013 another. The later one is cheaper an used with polymer coated bearings, it is cheaper too. So which one is a better crank for a rebuild?

Why get callies vs stock OEM LS7 crank if paired with stock rods?
Old 06-30-2015, 10:30 AM
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Originally Posted by lucxy

Why get callies vs stock OEM LS7 crank if paired with stock rods?
Depends on why you are replacing the crankshaft and what your goals are.

OEM crank is plenty stong. Callies will hold up to more power and is easier to balance with aftermarket pistons/rods, and adds that extra margin.

For the same price I think everyone would get the Callies over the OEM crankshaft,
Old 06-30-2015, 10:36 AM
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Originally Posted by erick_e
Depends on why you are replacing the crankshaft and what your goals are.

OEM crank is plenty stong. Callies will hold up to more power and is easier to balance with aftermarket pistons/rods, and adds that extra margin.

For the same price I think everyone would get the Callies over the OEM crankshaft,
rebuilding my LS7, I had 2 spun rod bearings and dont want the engine builder cut the crank. I am not looking for crazy power ~ 600 whp, but I want reliable light assembly.
Just spoke with folks Callies: dragon slayer is 8-12 weeks wait and compstar is 2-3 weeks.
Old 06-30-2015, 10:38 AM
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I guess still the question is which stok OEM LS7 crank is better 2006-2010 or 2010-2013?
Old 06-30-2015, 10:56 AM
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The Callies Compstar stuff is forged in China. Yes, they seem to be good, but I just don't like the idea. For me, it would be a USA made Dragon slayer. The Dragon Slayer is a lighter crank than the OE, even though it is balanced for a heavier bob weight. Have you tried calling some vendors to see if they have a long snout Dragon Slayer in stock?

Last edited by MyLS1Hauls; 05-14-2016 at 09:58 AM.
Old 06-30-2015, 11:31 AM
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Also check out Lunati Pro series. I waited almost 7 months for a dragon slayer. Was told 8 weeks, then another 2, then another 2, then another 2.

Find a shop that has one on the shelf, because I wouldn't trust calles time estimates at all.
Old 06-30-2015, 07:00 PM
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Originally Posted by lucxy
I found out that 2006-2010 uses different crank shaft and 2011-2013 another. The later one is cheaper an used with polymer coated bearings, it is cheaper too. So which one is a better crank for a rebuild?

Why get callies vs stock OEM LS7 crank if paired with stock rods?
Ahh, you had me panicking there for a second.. I believe the break-point is 2012-2013, not 2011-2013.

That said, I think it is safe to say that 99% of builds are using the stock crank, so unless there is some serious cost savings to be had, why not stick with OEM?

And if they are the same dimensionally, why couldn't you use the cheaper version?

Last edited by Dan_the_C5_Man; 06-30-2015 at 07:05 PM.
Old 06-30-2015, 08:04 PM
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I can't see what would be different about the crank journals for RoHS compliant bearings. I wonder if the other LS series also have a different crankshaft at that year break point. I would be more inclined to say a new part number is associated with a new supplier.

Originally Posted by Dan_the_C5_Man
Ahh, you had me panicking there for a second.. I believe the break-point is 2012-2013, not 2011-2013.

That said, I think it is safe to say that 99% of builds are using the stock crank, so unless there is some serious cost savings to be had, why not stick with OEM?

And if they are the same dimensionally, why couldn't you use the cheaper version?
Old 07-01-2015, 07:06 PM
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I've got an extra one from an 06 motor very low miles.

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