fueledpassion

How about more importantly u pull the heads off, inspect the piston to deck clearance at TDC, and mill the heads to the correct CC volume to max the DCR out at 8.5:1. If u just slap a cam in without any head work, u won't get max gains from that cam UNDER THE CURVE and depending on how big the duration is, it will be a pig up to 3 - 3.5K rpms. The LS7 is already a turd in stock form in lower rpms partly due to cam choice from GM and partly due to long stock gears. They wanted 505hp so bad and didn't want a gas guzzler tax.

Remember that the greater the degree of valve duration, the LESS degrees the engine has to build compression and thus, lower RPM's can't build compression quick enough, leaving u with a giant engine tha falls flat on its face. My advice, work with a tuner that discloses cam specs and lobes to u before selecting so u can run the numbers and understand what ur getting. Most of these medium to large cams r dropping DCR to 8:1 or worse and aren't providing a proper street able powerband. If u refuse to mill the heads and measure piston to deck clearance, then pick a cam with similar duration as stock with a lower LSA, higher lift and an asymmetrical lobe profile - one that gently closes the valves rather than slapping them shut. At least that will preserve ur ticking time bomb of an engine for a little while. I highly advise against cam only without doing head work to match the cam. Too many unknowns to know if ur risking ur engine or leaving gobs of tq on the table..

Manmuchwano

Okay guys so i just sold my other car and I am doing the heads probably gonna send them to Texas speed because there cheap guy said cost me a 1050 for porting milling new vavles and etc does anyone know if there any good..?? Probably gonna pair them with there ls7r cam. Is that a decent set up everything came up to 1900 shipped which is pretty cheap

MyLS1Hauls

$1050 sounds a little on the cheap side, considering it is most likely going to need 16 new valve guides, 16 seats ground, porting 16 ports, valve seals, springs, seats, retainers, locks, 8 exhaust valves, polish the intake valves, and milling the deck.

REDZED2

fueledpassion

I'm not about to bash Texas-Speed. They may be honest builders and I haven't heard anything about them that I haven't heard about LPE, 21st Century, and the rest of the vendors on this forum. Mostly good reviews with some bad apples lodged here and there.

However, if they aren't asking you about piston to deck clearance and aren't asking you where you want the power to be made, then I'd steer clear. That piston to deck clearance is the SOLE reason some LS7's put down 470rwhp and others put down 430rwhp. The compression varied because the block was often times not "square" and thus GM had to shave metal off the deck, leaving the pistons sticking out and increasing compression.

If you decide to go with them and they aren't being meticulous about the build, then get a builder to help you put together a cam package, with proper instructions on how much to mill the heads, and let TS do all the headwork and milling, just make sure they know how much you want the heads milled and give them the cam specs you get from your builder. In fact, to give the builder incentive, let him provide the cam for you..

What you need most of all for that head is valve guide improvements, SS exhaust valves, a valve job and the head milled to spec. Depending on what valve guides you use, you may also need to have the stock intake valves polished to preserve the life of the guides (if they are bronze). The shop should also make sure the valves are seating properly after all the work is done. This step is often times skipped. Builder "assume" that the valves seat and hold pressure just fine when they may not. This will also hurt power in the end.

This is your car. Your money. Know your crap. If you don't know what you're doing, learn about it. Be informed. Expect greatness from your builder/shop.