I-LOX

Recently ordered Kooks Headers and mid pipe. What problems have people ran into while installing. Any tips?

My friend has a lift, but he won't be available for a few weeks. Would anyone advise against doing it on jack stands?

mewalker2

It can be done on jack stands, no problem.

Todds427

Just installed my LG's, WOW what a BIT**. Used a lift, but nothing fits right, had to fight with everything. I recommend using the lift, jack stands would really be a fight. Took two of us 8 hrs to install.

c5racr1

Kooks and arh will slide in no problem. Lg sucks

548chevelle

Couldn't get Kooks in on driver side. Seems the oil heat exchanger was in the way. I was doing a clutch and was going to do the headers at the same time. But I wanted to get it back on the road so I held off on the headers. A couple weeks ago I removed the oil heat exchanger. I only do dd and drags, no track time. Last week I started installing my wideband to get ready for when I do the headers.

08mojo

Install them when the heads are pulled!

Seriously though, long tubes look like a hard install without removing anything else.

ttx350z

The only extra thing I removed to install my JBA longtubes were 2 coils on the passenger side to allow me to wiggle the header through the top. Driver side fell right into place. Removing the spark plugs would give more room as well.

REDZED2

He speakith the truth. I have seen all 3 brands installed and been involved. My pref. if to buy today is ARH and kooks a close second.Better quality clamps as well. JMO

jp_tt_awd

Did my Texas Speed long tubes on jack stands, the only thing I had to unbolt were the oil lines that connect to the oil pan. I just drained the oil first, un bolted them and swung them out of the way.

-jp

I-LOX

So, my Kooks showed up and the instructions say to raise the car 24" ....Is this required? most jack stands are 12-18". Gotta go buy new stands if it needs to be 24" so I hope not.

PS, thanks all for your prior comments.

3X2

I remove the spark plugs and coil packs off of the rocker covers. I disconnect the coolant temp sensor just in case I bang the header ito it and break it. Firesleeve the clutch slave cylinder line before installing the left side header. Connect the o2 sensors before bolting the headers in place. wiretie/reroute the o2 wires far away from the headers when done. Firesleeve/reroute/wiretie any wires at the starter that are close to the header tubes. Same goes for the wires that go behind #8 header tube. Insulate the starter if it is too close to the header tubes. Add firesleeve to the plug wire boots. There are also two half moon looking bosses sticking out on each side of the bellhousing, removing them gives a little more clearance to fit the headers in place- this depends on who makes the headers.

I-LOX

Do I need to remove the cats prior to removing the headers? The bolts on the cats are stuck on pretty damn tight. Is it better to remove something else? Currently talking about the left, right side tips are welcome.

Unreal

LGs are fine. Put a set on an off in less

v8sten

the kooks 2" were a pita on the pass side. oil lines starter, frame, k-member, block were all in the way i had to move all of those (except the frame) to squeeze it in. the drivers side went right in.

I-LOX

Also running into space issues on passenger side.(3" headers) Driver side went in with a little bit of Tetras work. Passenger side seems to not want to fit any direction. You said you had to raise the block?

I-LOX

Where do you raise the block? the only viable place that I see is the oil sump, but I am scared of cracking it... That isn't a normal place to jack from, but all other spots seem to be frame bars that will just lift the car itself.

Unreal

Can't go up that high because you will push the intake manifold isn't the cowl.

If you don't have clearance support the block on the bellhousing or pan with a large block of wood and lower the cradle slightly. My ARH 2" went in no issues. Starter had to come out, but didn't mess with anything else.

I-LOX

Got the starter out a little while ago, but seems there is still no room to move into place. I am hitting the dry sump before the headers even make it to the starter. I would need to bring the engine up a few inches I think. maybe 2-3. The headers seem to be wedged between the frame and dry sump. cant figure a way to wiggle it through.

Doing the 1-7/8 kooks header 3" X pipe. Not sure why I cant fit them in if the 2" header goes in well.

I-LOX

So, i raised the engine and got both headers in. But I seep to keep running into snags every step of the way. My passenger side rear O2 sensor seemes to be wedged somewhere up under/behind the transmission. I can touch the sensor itself but I cannot reach, see, or find the electrical connection so that I can attach the kooks O2 extensions. Suggestions? Or did anyone else run into this?

mikes08z06

Follow the wires from the O2 sensor to find the connector. Helped to have someone tugging on the wires to find the location of the connector. It was a real pain for me too and I kept trying from the top and the bottom to pull the blue locking pin and finally got it disconnected from the bottom. Get familiar with how the connectors come apart as two of mine had to be disconnected by feel. Expect the location of the connectors to vary slightly from car to car.

Keep in mind with my 1 7/8" Kooks headers with catted X-pipe I only needed the white (really light gray) extensions for the rear O2 sensors. The front sensors were fine without an extension. Disconnecting the O2 sensor connectors was the most aggravating part of the install for me.

Good luck.