[Z06] 5 year life engine build who has it
09-01-2015, 08:11 PM
#1
5 year life engine build who has it
WHO HAS THE SAUCE - give me a price for a build using an ls7 that will last 5 years with normal maintence doing 10 track days a year and be able to daily drive.
If a 911s can do it there must be a way for a z06 to do it too - whats it take.
If a 911s can do it there must be a way for a z06 to do it too - whats it take.
09-01-2015, 09:59 PM
#3
the stock 505hp stock torque - i just want the car to be GUARANTEED 5 years of life with minimal abuse...if i bought a 911s it only need basic engine maintenance (spark plugs, fluids, various things checked and tightened) and can handle 5 years of daily driving with track days here and there NOT ABUSIVE ***** OUT RACING..but a good fast sunday track day ...thats all I want....the ultimate grand sporting car (I plan on redoing interior all suede and classy as hell)
09-01-2015, 10:22 PM
#5
Le Mans Master
Lol to think a track orientated built motor is going to be turn key and reliable for 5 yrs.
what's your racing history? Do you know what it takes to race a car? It's not just the motor, it's drivetrain, brakes, all fluids, suspension, etc.
Trying to compare the Porsche to a Vette for track use is apples to oranges. Both are in diff leagues. It's far cheaper to build a stout h/c/I and full bolt on Z06 then a built up Porsche. Trust me, I know. I have had three built z06's and two heavily built 996tt's.
Any one of the popular race shops across the country can build a stout race motor. What you need is someone (race shop) who is close to you to build and maintain that engine.
Aj
what's your racing history? Do you know what it takes to race a car? It's not just the motor, it's drivetrain, brakes, all fluids, suspension, etc.
Trying to compare the Porsche to a Vette for track use is apples to oranges. Both are in diff leagues. It's far cheaper to build a stout h/c/I and full bolt on Z06 then a built up Porsche. Trust me, I know. I have had three built z06's and two heavily built 996tt's.
Any one of the popular race shops across the country can build a stout race motor. What you need is someone (race shop) who is close to you to build and maintain that engine.
Aj
09-02-2015, 03:07 AM
#6
Lol to think a track orientated built motor is going to be turn key and reliable for 5 yrs.
what's your racing history? Do you know what it takes to race a car? It's not just the motor, it's drivetrain, brakes, all fluids, suspension, etc.
Trying to compare the Porsche to a Vette for track use is apples to oranges. Both are in diff leagues. It's far cheaper to build a stout h/c/I and full bolt on Z06 then a built up Porsche. Trust me, I know. I have had three built z06's and two heavily built 996tt's.
Any one of the popular race shops across the country can build a stout race motor. What you need is someone (race shop) who is close to you to build and maintain that engine.
Aj
what's your racing history? Do you know what it takes to race a car? It's not just the motor, it's drivetrain, brakes, all fluids, suspension, etc.
Trying to compare the Porsche to a Vette for track use is apples to oranges. Both are in diff leagues. It's far cheaper to build a stout h/c/I and full bolt on Z06 then a built up Porsche. Trust me, I know. I have had three built z06's and two heavily built 996tt's.
Any one of the popular race shops across the country can build a stout race motor. What you need is someone (race shop) who is close to you to build and maintain that engine.
Aj
Prepare to probably laugh at me
Race history - 0 Got mad hours on gran tourismo though ;P (Getting race instructor before hitting a track that isn't an open parking lot so track days are probably Q2 2016). Autocross I'm down to hit up as soon im 100% sure the ls7 can be reliable - right now I'm deadly afraid of the thing blowing up.
Several have said my solid stainless steel exhaust valves causes something to be too heavy and prone to malfunction at 7k rpm or whatever. Plus I have no idea what rockers are on the car, how high valve lift is, or what springs rates where used. (Got car used)
Only reason I mentioned the Porsches - I was considering trading the z06 for one after reading the porsche forums and seeing a distinct lack of "who's has randomly blown up" posts
But I don't really want to "rac"e, just have a car I can depend on to get me to-n-fro that can also have a little fun auto crossing/ HPDE (occasionally and not abusively) that also sounds way better & is way faster at 6/10th than the ricer cars at 10/10th. I don't want to beat on the car, just have some fun and then drive it home/ to class the next day. Ideally I'd have MTI do all the major maintence/ track prep/ upgrades when needed and this place called buyavette handle fluid changes/ tire changes (it's way closer and they seem capable from what I saw in thier shop)
09-02-2015, 04:27 AM
#7
Pro
the stock 505hp stock torque - i just want the car to be GUARANTEED 5 years of life with minimal abuse...if i bought a 911s it only need basic engine maintenance (spark plugs, fluids, various things checked and tightened) and can handle 5 years of daily driving with track days here and there NOT ABUSIVE ***** OUT RACING..but a good fast sunday track day ...thats all I want....the ultimate grand sporting car (I plan on redoing interior all suede and classy as hell)
09-02-2015, 06:07 AM
#8
Le Mans Master
Well then... You have a great shop at your disposal, MTI has built some amazing cars. I'd call them up and tell em what you're looking for.
As for track experience... Totally underrated. Grand tourismo is a great teacher, you'll be just fine!
Haha
As for track experience... Totally underrated. Grand tourismo is a great teacher, you'll be just fine!
Haha
Last edited by 1 BAD BURB; 09-02-2015 at 09:20 AM.
09-02-2015, 08:16 AM
#10
Melting Slicks
Buy a C7 Z06 and leave it stock.
09-02-2015, 09:13 AM
#11
Prepare to probably laugh at me
Race history - 0 Got mad hours on gran tourismo though ;P (Getting race instructor before hitting a track that isn't an open parking lot so track days are probably Q2 2016). Autocross I'm down to hit up as soon im 100% sure the ls7 can be reliable - right now I'm deadly afraid of the thing blowing up.
Several have said my solid stainless steel exhaust valves causes something to be too heavy and prone to malfunction at 7k rpm or whatever. Plus I have no idea what rockers are on the car, how high valve lift is, or what springs rates where used. (Got car used)
Only reason I mentioned the Porsches - I was considering trading the z06 for one after reading the porsche forums and seeing a distinct lack of "who's has randomly blown up" posts
But I don't really want to "rac"e, just have a car I can depend on to get me to-n-fro that can also have a little fun auto crossing/ HPDE (occasionally and not abusively) that also sounds way better & is way faster at 6/10th than the ricer cars at 10/10th. I don't want to beat on the car, just have some fun and then drive it home/ to class the next day. Ideally I'd have MTI do all the major maintence/ track prep/ upgrades when needed and this place called buyavette handle fluid changes/ tire changes (it's way closer and they seem capable from what I saw in thier shop)
Race history - 0 Got mad hours on gran tourismo though ;P (Getting race instructor before hitting a track that isn't an open parking lot so track days are probably Q2 2016). Autocross I'm down to hit up as soon im 100% sure the ls7 can be reliable - right now I'm deadly afraid of the thing blowing up.
Several have said my solid stainless steel exhaust valves causes something to be too heavy and prone to malfunction at 7k rpm or whatever. Plus I have no idea what rockers are on the car, how high valve lift is, or what springs rates where used. (Got car used)
Only reason I mentioned the Porsches - I was considering trading the z06 for one after reading the porsche forums and seeing a distinct lack of "who's has randomly blown up" posts
But I don't really want to "rac"e, just have a car I can depend on to get me to-n-fro that can also have a little fun auto crossing/ HPDE (occasionally and not abusively) that also sounds way better & is way faster at 6/10th than the ricer cars at 10/10th. I don't want to beat on the car, just have some fun and then drive it home/ to class the next day. Ideally I'd have MTI do all the major maintence/ track prep/ upgrades when needed and this place called buyavette handle fluid changes/ tire changes (it's way closer and they seem capable from what I saw in thier shop)
from another Atlanta area member. There is plenty of support around here to keep the car maintained and as fast as you'd like. Of course, nothing is guaranteed and things happen, so: Just be smart about it, keep an eye on things (meaning check for valve guide wear at regular intervals) and keep it maintained--you'll be fine.
09-02-2015, 09:23 AM
#12
The stock C6Z IS a track car already.
Fix the heads using any number of vendors on this forum or elsewhere and you are good to go.
The stock steel brakes will work fine. The carbon ceramic Z07 package is overkill for even light duty track use. The only other thing you need to do with the Z to make it properly run hard at the track is:
1. Address the dret sump system and convert to a fully dry sump system. I think there is an affordable kit for about $700 that completely removes the possibility of oil starvation, even at 1.2+ G's.
2. Get some Sport Cup shoes for the car
-------------------------------------------
So there ya go, if you do the work yourself (other than mounting new tires on the wheels), you are looking at $2500-$3000 or so. Fix heads, but DO NOT add cams, intake, exhaust, etc. Sure, those are nice, but they will provide only marginal improvements in your laps times but at an increasing cost with diminishing returns. A 650hp Z will not be significantly faster than a 500hp Z, given that they weigh the same. Weight reductions, especially in the unsprung weight, will make the best improvements in your lap times.
Fix the heads using any number of vendors on this forum or elsewhere and you are good to go.
The stock steel brakes will work fine. The carbon ceramic Z07 package is overkill for even light duty track use. The only other thing you need to do with the Z to make it properly run hard at the track is:
1. Address the dret sump system and convert to a fully dry sump system. I think there is an affordable kit for about $700 that completely removes the possibility of oil starvation, even at 1.2+ G's.
2. Get some Sport Cup shoes for the car
-------------------------------------------
So there ya go, if you do the work yourself (other than mounting new tires on the wheels), you are looking at $2500-$3000 or so. Fix heads, but DO NOT add cams, intake, exhaust, etc. Sure, those are nice, but they will provide only marginal improvements in your laps times but at an increasing cost with diminishing returns. A 650hp Z will not be significantly faster than a 500hp Z, given that they weigh the same. Weight reductions, especially in the unsprung weight, will make the best improvements in your lap times.
Last edited by fueledpassion; 09-02-2015 at 10:28 AM.
09-02-2015, 02:09 PM
#13
Sounds like you are in that Atlanta area, so from another Atlanta area member. There is plenty of support around here to keep the car maintained and as fast as you'd like. Of course, nothing is guaranteed and things happen, so: Just be smart about it, keep an eye on things (meaning check for valve guide wear at regular intervals) and keep it maintained--you'll be fine.
from another Atlanta area member. There is plenty of support around here to keep the car maintained and as fast as you'd like. Of course, nothing is guaranteed and things happen, so: Just be smart about it, keep an eye on things (meaning check for valve guide wear at regular intervals) and keep it maintained--you'll be fine.https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=lVvfNqMbrOo
09-02-2015, 03:48 PM
#15
Melting Slicks
09-02-2015, 03:58 PM
#16
Melting Slicks
The stock C6Z IS a track car already.
Fix the heads using any number of vendors on this forum or elsewhere and you are good to go.
The stock steel brakes will work fine. The carbon ceramic Z07 package is overkill for even light duty track use. The only other thing you need to do with the Z to make it properly run hard at the track is:
1. Address the dret sump system and convert to a fully dry sump system. I think there is an affordable kit for about $700 that completely removes the possibility of oil starvation, even at 1.2+ G's.
2. Get some Sport Cup shoes for the car
-------------------------------------------
So there ya go, if you do the work yourself (other than mounting new tires on the wheels), you are looking at $2500-$3000 or so. Fix heads, but DO NOT add cams, intake, exhaust, etc. Sure, those are nice, but they will provide only marginal improvements in your laps times but at an increasing cost with diminishing returns. A 650hp Z will not be significantly faster than a 500hp Z, given that they weigh the same. Weight reductions, especially in the unsprung weight, will make the best improvements in your lap times.
Fix the heads using any number of vendors on this forum or elsewhere and you are good to go.
The stock steel brakes will work fine. The carbon ceramic Z07 package is overkill for even light duty track use. The only other thing you need to do with the Z to make it properly run hard at the track is:
1. Address the dret sump system and convert to a fully dry sump system. I think there is an affordable kit for about $700 that completely removes the possibility of oil starvation, even at 1.2+ G's.
2. Get some Sport Cup shoes for the car
-------------------------------------------
So there ya go, if you do the work yourself (other than mounting new tires on the wheels), you are looking at $2500-$3000 or so. Fix heads, but DO NOT add cams, intake, exhaust, etc. Sure, those are nice, but they will provide only marginal improvements in your laps times but at an increasing cost with diminishing returns. A 650hp Z will not be significantly faster than a 500hp Z, given that they weigh the same. Weight reductions, especially in the unsprung weight, will make the best improvements in your lap times.
09-02-2015, 07:02 PM
#17
FYI - he's already had the WCCH Stage II fix done to the heads by the previous owner. He's just being paranoid since he has seen some posts about WCCH heads being out of spec. I've already told him he should be fine, but he is still looking for a fix that will be guaranteed to not fail for 5 years. Of course no one is going to guarantee that.
09-02-2015, 07:12 PM
#18
i was mainly worried cause people keep saying solid ss exahust valves are too heavy and the spring rates if too weighted can be too heavy for 7K rpm or something...that along with vengeance lacking the ability to tell me what was done. has me uneasy, what kind of engineering shop cant tell you what they did?? that and the whole needing rockers and all this other ****...make me want to rip it all off and start over. the engineer in me makes me paranoid i suppose
oh also has ARP head bolts whatever that means? I think maybe im just freaking out about nothing
oh also has ARP head bolts whatever that means? I think maybe im just freaking out about nothing
Last edited by univerz06; 09-02-2015 at 07:19 PM.
09-02-2015, 09:16 PM
#19
Melting Slicks
i was mainly worried cause people keep saying solid ss exahust valves are too heavy and the spring rates if too weighted can be too heavy for 7K rpm or something...that along with vengeance lacking the ability to tell me what was done. has me uneasy, what kind of engineering shop cant tell you what they did?? that and the whole needing rockers and all this other ****...make me want to rip it all off and start over. the engineer in me makes me paranoid i suppose
oh also has ARP head bolts whatever that means? I think maybe im just freaking out about nothing
oh also has ARP head bolts whatever that means? I think maybe im just freaking out about nothing
09-02-2015, 09:39 PM
#20
Le Mans Master
oh also has ARP head bolts whatever that means? I think maybe im just freaking out about nothing..
ARP makes high-end fastners - basically you have upgraded head bolts (bolting the heads to the block) that are reusable (unlike the torque to yield stock items)
ARP makes high-end fastners - basically you have upgraded head bolts (bolting the heads to the block) that are reusable (unlike the torque to yield stock items)