[Z06] How To; Engine Removal?
#1
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
How To; Engine Removal?
I have to pull the engine out of my '09 Z06 in my garage on jack stands. Does anyone have, or know of, a procedure on how to do this? I want to do it by removing the hood and pulling it out the top.
Thanks all,
John
Thanks all,
John
#2
I removed the hood, front bumper and foam.
I also pretty much took the whole engine apart so I had all the room I needed.
I also had the front cradle out, gave me room from the streeting rack.
Pretty much the whole front of the car was taken apart...did I need to do this, probably not.
I also pretty much took the whole engine apart so I had all the room I needed.
I also had the front cradle out, gave me room from the streeting rack.
Pretty much the whole front of the car was taken apart...did I need to do this, probably not.
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Is2scooby (11-28-2015)
#3
Tether Man
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Typically, the Engine, cradle and suspension are dropped from the bottom. That requires 3 to 4 ft min. of lift.
But....looks like you have things under control.........
But....looks like you have things under control.........
#6
Race Director
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I pulled mine from the top by removing the stuff on the front (water pump, alt brkt, steering pump) and moving the AC comp and ABS out of the way. Then pulling the intake/exhaust manifolds and the bell housing bolts. I didn't move the steering rack or drop the cradle.
Mine was an A6, so this may not apply directly to a M6.
Mine was an A6, so this may not apply directly to a M6.
#8
#9
Pro
Cajundude had a decent write up from years back. I'm not on my home PC, but I do have it bookmarked there.
I pulled mine from the top. It honestly wasn't bad at all. Removed hood, but left bumper, radiator, and condenser, and steering rack in place. Removed all obvious bolts, accessories, and cylinder heads. I did remove the engine cradle bolts and supported it with a jack, to get more clearance at the steering rack, for the crank damper. Also, having a load leveler made things much easier as well. You do have to make sure the engine stays in the same plane as the torque tube shaft, or it will bind on the clutch/splines. Once you have the clutch free from the torque tube, then you can angle the front of the engine up and pull it out. It sounds much harder than it actually is.
I pulled mine from the top. It honestly wasn't bad at all. Removed hood, but left bumper, radiator, and condenser, and steering rack in place. Removed all obvious bolts, accessories, and cylinder heads. I did remove the engine cradle bolts and supported it with a jack, to get more clearance at the steering rack, for the crank damper. Also, having a load leveler made things much easier as well. You do have to make sure the engine stays in the same plane as the torque tube shaft, or it will bind on the clutch/splines. Once you have the clutch free from the torque tube, then you can angle the front of the engine up and pull it out. It sounds much harder than it actually is.
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JohnRR (11-30-2015)
#10
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Cajundude had a decent write up from years back. I'm not on my home PC, but I do have it bookmarked there.
I pulled mine from the top. It honestly wasn't bad at all. Removed hood, but left bumper, radiator, and condenser, and steering rack in place. Removed all obvious bolts, accessories, and cylinder heads. I did remove the engine cradle bolts and supported it with a jack, to get more clearance at the steering rack, for the crank damper. Also, having a load leveler made things much easier as well. You do have to make sure the engine stays in the same plane as the torque tube shaft, or it will bind on the clutch/splines. Once you have the clutch free from the torque tube, then you can angle the front of the engine up and pull it out. It sounds much harder than it actually is.
I pulled mine from the top. It honestly wasn't bad at all. Removed hood, but left bumper, radiator, and condenser, and steering rack in place. Removed all obvious bolts, accessories, and cylinder heads. I did remove the engine cradle bolts and supported it with a jack, to get more clearance at the steering rack, for the crank damper. Also, having a load leveler made things much easier as well. You do have to make sure the engine stays in the same plane as the torque tube shaft, or it will bind on the clutch/splines. Once you have the clutch free from the torque tube, then you can angle the front of the engine up and pull it out. It sounds much harder than it actually is.
Thanks to all who offered tips on this project.
John
#11
Burning Brakes
I'm about 1 hour away from being ready to pull mine.
Fenders and hood are off.
Rad and condenser are still in place.
Heads are off. Oil tanke lines are out. Power steering pump is out.
Need to pull the AC pump off the block and start pulling.
Should I leave the bell housing in place or pull it with the motor and separate it at the torque tube?
Fenders and hood are off.
Rad and condenser are still in place.
Heads are off. Oil tanke lines are out. Power steering pump is out.
Need to pull the AC pump off the block and start pulling.
Should I leave the bell housing in place or pull it with the motor and separate it at the torque tube?
#12
I'm about 1 hour away from being ready to pull mine.
Fenders and hood are off.
Rad and condenser are still in place.
Heads are off. Oil tanke lines are out. Power steering pump is out.
Need to pull the AC pump off the block and start pulling.
Should I leave the bell housing in place or pull it with the motor and separate it at the torque tube?
Fenders and hood are off.
Rad and condenser are still in place.
Heads are off. Oil tanke lines are out. Power steering pump is out.
Need to pull the AC pump off the block and start pulling.
Should I leave the bell housing in place or pull it with the motor and separate it at the torque tube?
Last edited by BOTTLE FEDvette; 11-30-2015 at 08:15 PM.
#14
Pro
That's the link. You may want to save those web pages locally to your PC, incase the archive goes offline.
If you have any questions, just ask.
#15
I took mine out, and put it back in from the top. No accessories or radiator in the car. Pulled the drive train, and installed it without a lift. It was fairly simple, just ever so slightly cramped haha
#16
Burning Brakes
I'm just pulling the motor out the top, leaving the drive train in place. Would it be best to leave the bell housing on the trans and just unbolt it from the torque tube and pull it that way? I would have to remove a few bolts to get the harness free.
#18
Burning Brakes
Can I snake it out with out removing the fan and radiator or will I need the extra room?
The heads are off and I will be able to tilt the block as needed. I just don't want to get it 1/2 way out to find out the radiator needs to come out for room.
The heads are off and I will be able to tilt the block as needed. I just don't want to get it 1/2 way out to find out the radiator needs to come out for room.
#19
Pro
As I mentioned earlier, my front bumper, radiator, condenser, and cooling fan is all in place. I didn't remove any of that. The only spot that was tight was the crank dampener and the steering rack, so I lowered the engine cradle a bit, to get the steering rack out of the way. That required me to disconnect the upper A arms and the sway bar. There are a few ways to do it, but this worked for me.