[Z06] 2009 3LZ at salvage yard w/no keys
#1
Drifting
Thread Starter
2009 3LZ at salvage yard w/no keys
How to get it started to check the engine prior to bidding. Looks like it spun out and did under carriage damage in the rear. Muffs are smoshed and there's a oil leak in the rear. 12K miles. Wheels look straight and minimal body damage (rear bumper cover). It's real close to me and if runs and the price is right... I have the VIN. Could a dealer provide a FOB/key so it could be started to test it?
#2
Le Mans Master
Search is your friend -
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...tructions.html
But I am wondering if you will have an opportunity to do this Rube Goldberg-esq process..
And it just dawned on me, you'll need the physical key to turn the trunk lock - either that, or gain access to the wiring / switch related to the lock cylinder.
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...tructions.html
But I am wondering if you will have an opportunity to do this Rube Goldberg-esq process..
And it just dawned on me, you'll need the physical key to turn the trunk lock - either that, or gain access to the wiring / switch related to the lock cylinder.
Last edited by Dan_the_C5_Man; 11-30-2015 at 02:56 AM.
#3
Instructor
I know the damage might look low but I would think it ended up in its current location for a reason. Still might be a great candidate, depending depending on price.
#4
Drifting
Thread Starter
Search is your friend -
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...tructions.html
But I am wondering if you will have an opportunity to do this Rube Goldberg-esq process..
And it just dawned on me, you'll need the physical key to turn the trunk lock - either that, or gain access to the wiring / switch related to the lock cylinder.
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...tructions.html
But I am wondering if you will have an opportunity to do this Rube Goldberg-esq process..
And it just dawned on me, you'll need the physical key to turn the trunk lock - either that, or gain access to the wiring / switch related to the lock cylinder.
What I came up with is a FOB is a read only device. It does not get programmed. The car learns it. There is 2 procedures for US cars to learn them. The short version is for adding additional FOB's to a car and the long version which erases all learned FOB's and starts from scratch. The first requires a functional FOB in the car to work and a physical key to activate learning mode. The long version erases all learned FOBs. It forces 3 ten minute delays between steps which makes it more then a 1/2 hour job. As there is no key for this car a work around must be done. I looked at the schematics and there is 2 wires that is connected to the key switch or auto pull down latch.
2 scotch locks and a push button momentary "normally open" switch
would make that part easy. Just short them together 5 times in less then 5 seconds and that should initiate "learn mode". A lot of work just to decide if I'm interested in bidding AND if I get it running would make it more valuable to other interested parties and boost the price.
I think a better and less evasive test would be to bring a remote starter switch to jump the starter and listen for 8 normal compression strokes and bid accordingly
Now the big question is bid price. Book price minus repair estimate puts the cars remaining value at under 20K. Deduct X for a unknown engine =?. Then something has to be deducted as it will be forever more associated with a rebuilt title. Engine spins over normally, Max bid 10K?
#5
Drifting
one thing a junkyard friend told me was that i never forgot, "it was running when they wrecked it"
#6
Le Mans Master
I thought about that as well, that if you get it running you basically just increased the value / raised the bid for everyone else. And it also makes sense that it was running when crashed.
Good luck, let us know if you win.
Good luck, let us know if you win.
Last edited by Dan_the_C5_Man; 12-01-2015 at 01:37 PM.
#7
Melting Slicks
#8
Thanks, I read up on this and a couple of other threads linked within.
What I came up with is a FOB is a read only device. It does not get programmed. The car learns it. There is 2 procedures for US cars to learn them. The short version is for adding additional FOB's to a car and the long version which erases all learned FOB's and starts from scratch. The first requires a functional FOB in the car to work and a physical key to activate learning mode. The long version erases all learned FOBs. It forces 3 ten minute delays between steps which makes it more then a 1/2 hour job. As there is no key for this car a work around must be done. I looked at the schematics and there is 2 wires that is connected to the key switch or auto pull down latch.
2 scotch locks and a push button momentary "normally open" switch
would make that part easy. Just short them together 5 times in less then 5 seconds and that should initiate "learn mode". A lot of work just to decide if I'm interested in bidding AND if I get it running would make it more valuable to other interested parties and boost the price.
I think a better and less evasive test would be to bring a remote starter switch to jump the starter and listen for 8 normal compression strokes and bid accordingly
Now the big question is bid price. Book price minus repair estimate puts the cars remaining value at under 20K. Deduct X for a unknown engine =?. Then something has to be deducted as it will be forever more associated with a rebuilt title. Engine spins over normally, Max bid 10K?
What I came up with is a FOB is a read only device. It does not get programmed. The car learns it. There is 2 procedures for US cars to learn them. The short version is for adding additional FOB's to a car and the long version which erases all learned FOB's and starts from scratch. The first requires a functional FOB in the car to work and a physical key to activate learning mode. The long version erases all learned FOBs. It forces 3 ten minute delays between steps which makes it more then a 1/2 hour job. As there is no key for this car a work around must be done. I looked at the schematics and there is 2 wires that is connected to the key switch or auto pull down latch.
2 scotch locks and a push button momentary "normally open" switch
would make that part easy. Just short them together 5 times in less then 5 seconds and that should initiate "learn mode". A lot of work just to decide if I'm interested in bidding AND if I get it running would make it more valuable to other interested parties and boost the price.
I think a better and less evasive test would be to bring a remote starter switch to jump the starter and listen for 8 normal compression strokes and bid accordingly
Now the big question is bid price. Book price minus repair estimate puts the cars remaining value at under 20K. Deduct X for a unknown engine =?. Then something has to be deducted as it will be forever more associated with a rebuilt title. Engine spins over normally, Max bid 10K?
#9
Drifting
Thread Starter
As of this post, the car is listed as "not ready for sale" I'm not sure how this process goes but the pictures are dated and the car has been at this lot since 9/21/15. I have e-mailed the salvage yard manager for insurance company contact information to see if I can get a copy of the repair estimate. I've never done this before so it's going to be a learning process. A view of the estimate might be the end of the process.
#10
Drifting
Thread Starter
No reply from the salvage yard manager. The insurance co that paid the claim must have gotten a salvage title. I have the VIN. How can I find the insurance co that holds that title?
#11
Drifting
Thread Starter
Well I did finally hear back from someone.
"Greetings,
In regards to your request, unfortunately we are not able to release that information as it was not provided. Please note that not all states are required to provide the appraisal cost.
Regards,"
They did supply the appraisal cost. It was $27K. But without the paperwork to back it up, the car is useless to someone in Mass.
In MA, a car must submit for a "salvage inspection" which is done through the Mass State Police. They are very specific about what is needed for that inspection. A copy of the damage appraisal is one of them as it helps them inspect the car after it's rebuilt to insure there are no stolen parts used to rebuild the car. I'm probably going to have to pass as I don't want a pretty paper weight sitting in my garage.
"Greetings,
In regards to your request, unfortunately we are not able to release that information as it was not provided. Please note that not all states are required to provide the appraisal cost.
Regards,"
They did supply the appraisal cost. It was $27K. But without the paperwork to back it up, the car is useless to someone in Mass.
In MA, a car must submit for a "salvage inspection" which is done through the Mass State Police. They are very specific about what is needed for that inspection. A copy of the damage appraisal is one of them as it helps them inspect the car after it's rebuilt to insure there are no stolen parts used to rebuild the car. I'm probably going to have to pass as I don't want a pretty paper weight sitting in my garage.