Pappa Prich

Hey All,

I'm winterizing the Z for the first time. I've got a standard one car garage, no lift (the car will simply be parked on the floor).

The gas tank is full, tire pressures are at MFG spec. I'm ordering a battery tender and will put in fuel/octane Stabilizer.

Maybe a dumb question, but when I park the car, I always use the e-brake and put the car in gear after it's off. Is it a good idea to leave the parked and in gear for that long, or does it even matter?

Any recommendations on the Stabil and favorite car covers?

Thanks!!

carpe dm

Remember to run the car for a time, after you put in the Stabil, as you want it to be in the entire fuel system. I would NOT keep the parking brake, but in gear is OK. Did you change, or plan on changing the oil? I used to store for half of the year and was always glad to have clean oil in there!

Too-Fast

What carpe dm said.

As far as the cover goes, any good quality inside cover should do fine; there are many out there. I don't ever have a problem with the tires on concrete although others will advocate for some kinds of pads or carpet; which is OK also. I generally change my oil after storage since I only put about 600 miles a year on it anyway and it only gets changed annually.

EWK

I store my Z through the winter on a set of Flatstoppers. Check them out at http://www.raceramps.com/flatstoppers.aspx

Lawdogg

Full gas tank is not necessary (our gas tanks are plastic). I've been storing my sports cars from Nov to April every year for almost 40 years. I've never used a gas stabilizer. Never had a carb, fuel injector, fuel pump, or fuel filter go bad. I air up the tires to 40 psi, park it with clean oil, put some Bounce fabric softener sheets in the interior to keep mice out, and hook up a battery tender. I never use a car cover. If stored indoors I think the cover does more harm than good. All is jmho.

SonnyAK

All good advice...The only thing I would add is to use a small fan in the area to help keep the air moving to keep moisture from building, and place a few of the sticky mouse pads around the perimeter of the garage (even if you don't see any signs of mice - they're always close-by).

Norm_427

A couple of corrections, if I may:

1. Bounce fabric softeners keeping mice away is a myth. See the following link and #6 near the bottom. https://household-tips.thefuntimesgu...c-softener.php

2. You do want to store any gas engine with a full tank. Ask any private pilot who knows from their training that full fuel tanks reduce the air volume and therefore reduces the likelihood of evaporation and the collection of water at the bottom of the gas tank.

BTW, I throw 2 king size cotton sheets over my vette while being stored. It's amazing how dust can creep into a garage and shop even when closed up.

You can also put your smart battery tender on a xmas light timer to run for just an hour a day ... that's more then enough.

Mr. Jean

You've already gotten many answers, all I'll add is for next year. You might add the Stabilizer (if you continue using it) just before filling the tank. It mixes better and gets through the whole system on the drive to storage.

dmuellenberg

I also store mine usually from mid-late November until April. I change the oil, pump tires up to 40 psi to prevent flat spots, put stabilizer in a full tank and put a car cover on it. Since I store it in an unheated garage with no electricity, I put a tarp down and remove the battery. Been doing this for almost 10 years now with no problems.

Another thing that hasn't been mentioned is that it is better to not start the car during storage and just leave it sit until spring, unless you are able to drive the car long enough to get the oil temp (not water temp) up to operating temperature. Just idling the car will not get the oil temp high enough to burn off water condensation.

BJC_Z06

+1

77vette05

Pappa Prich

Hi All,

Thank you for the responses ... my work schedule has kept me from responding and frankly, I haven't been able to do anything regarding the car since I posted this.

It's been sitting for a couple of weeks now without the Stabi in it --- is it even worth adding it now? I highly doubt I'll get a good enough day to drive and warm the car to full temp and plus there salt on the roads now so it's not coming out. .... Should I add it or just forget it?

Also, I've had the car sitting in the garage (level) with the e-brake and in gear (6th I think). Is it ok to leave the car in gear that long? (not sure why it wouldn't be, but I thought I would ask).

Going to pick up the battery tender this week.

Thanks!

BJC_Z06

In gear won't hurt it. Put the Stabil in it. Gas starts to turn to varnish in 30 days and keeps turning for about 2 years. 8 new injectors or an $8 bottle of Stabil. Easy decision. Let it run for 20 minutes to get the chemical all through the injectors, then you are good to go for a year (on the gas).

Pappa Prich

^^^ Will do. (Regarding adding it.)

But if I'm not taking it out of the driveway, is it smart to still start it up? I can let it idle to the appropriate oil temp, but it seems like everyone has an opinion about that too (that just idling is bad).

Norm_427

Don't start it until you can drive it for 30 minutes or more.

I've stored a boat, m/cycles, sports car and lawn mower for 30 winters and I've never used Stabil and I've never had a problem.

REDZED2

Don't need to over think this... I have never changed the oil in the fall.. also because of the miles it has and the oil life meter is usually in the 60-70% range with high quality syn. and always leave 1/4 tank of 94 octane in and dump in some fresh 94 in the spring (fill tank close to full) before start up. Fuel stabils are junk ... ask my why. Snake oil.

dmuellenberg

No, you can't just idle and get it up to appropriate oil temp. Coolant temp, yes, but not oil temp.

BJC_Z06

To the OP. Make your own decisions, but know this.

Gasoline turns to varnish over time. This is not my opinion. It is a fact. It can be debated as to if this process starts in 30 days or in 6 months (from the date of refining, not pumping), but it can't be debated as to if it happens or not.

The varnish coats the inside of the fuel lines, the gas tank, and the injectors. It doesn't take much to clog an injector, and you can not just replace one. It costs about $1,500 to replace the injectors on an LS7. That doesn't begin to cover the costs of damage done to an engine from a lean cylinder. Talk to a mechanic you trust.

Leaving your fuel tank empty is foolish unless your area maintains the same temperature every hour of every day (or you have a bottom drain on your tank and completely empty it). Pour a glass of iced tea and see the condensation on the side of the cold glass. The same thing happens inside your gas tank when the temperature changes from 20 to 60 overnight(the tank is 20 and the air inside it is 60). The water condenses inside the gas tank, drips down, and goes under the gas. Gas floats, so the water doesn't evaporate. Water doesn't burn...or compress. A full tank keeps the walls of the tank covered in gas and prevents condensation.

If you choose to put Stabil in your car, you need to let it run 20 minutes (or take it for a short drive) so that the chemical will reach the injectors. Otherwise, your fuel lines and injectors will be full of stale gas.

Good luck.

REDZED2

Are we talking about 1960's/70's vette storage or c6 c7 storage?? I run a hi end $$ fuel system cleaner twice a year in my Z06. Have taken apart engines years after storing them the same way and never ever an issue or evidence of any wrong doing during storage..Oh and never had one issue de winterizing and starting up my cars and Z's in the spring ever. 30 years of old and late model. Plastic fuel tanks help. These cars have no oxidation anywhere.. everything is sealed like tupperware... A 60's muscle car/ Yes there are changes.. not too many.

Too many people are too **** and it doesn't make an ounce of difference. JMO. Everyone has their own plan for what works for them. There is no definitive right or wrong for storage. We all know that.

dmuellenberg

I hope you are just referring to fuel stabilizer. But if you are talking about winter storage in general (start versus no start, using a tender, etc.), it would be bad advice to say there is no right/wrong way to do certain things.