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C6 Corvette ZR1 & Z06General info about GM’s Corvette Supercar, LS9 Corvette Technical Info, Performance Upgrades, Suspension Setup for Street or Track
With your stock 11.0 CR, you'll be hard pressed to get close to 570rwhp.
I am not sure what are the exact flow figures of your heads vs. what exactly has been done to them, but if you want close to or 600rwhp, you may need to revisit them again while shooting for CR around the 11.7 to 11.9 range to run on pump 93oct.
Fueling will be key; bigger injectors should be in your recipe along with great tuning. You can get there on pump - much harder on 91oct, but much easier with E85, race gas or by implementing a pump/meth combination.
I'll be real with you, you're now sitting at 555rwhp and looking for 600 to 600+ to the tires...you will have to up the game to gain that extra 45+ rwhp no matter which fuel method you choose.
This is my typical build on one making 585-615 rwhp.
LG 1 7/8 Super Pro Long tubes
High flow mufflers (Corsa, Borla, B&B, LG...)
ATI underdrive pulley
LG G7X4 or G7X5 cam
LG ported LS7 heads (11.3-11.75:1 compression)
FAST 102 intake
102mm TB
upgraded injectors
cold air intake
Depending on the short block when we start that generally will get them there.
I will say on customers doing the above with a stock intake and TB, you can generally pick up 20-25 with the FAST 102 combo.
What injectors are you recommending for similar setups? I'm running high on my duty cycle and would like to upgrade.
If the car was going to be built for primarily for road course and autoX with the package you listed above, would you recommend the 1-3/4 stepped headers or stick with the 1-7/8? I got an ARH setup and I think it's what's causing the dip in my torque curve in the mid-range. Either way, I'm selling them and getting some of coated versions of yours.
Also, I'm looking forward to picking up a set of G2 coilovers and G1 swaybars for this season.
Mods:
Factory shortblock
WCCH stage 2, ti/mo intake valve, OEM exhaust valve, milled .030", stock head gaskets, PSI springs, ti retainers, CHE rocker upgrade
K501 cam, stock lifters
MSD IM, NW102
Halltech 108
LG 1 7/8" headers, no cats
Stock Mufflers modified for full 3"
Meziere Electric WP
Monster LT1-S Clutch with lightened Billet Steel Flywheel
Performance AFX rotors (lighter than stock type rotors, effects the output on inertia dynos like DJs
285/345 MPSS non-runflat tires (lighter than runflats)
Recommend to you:
-More compression
-Comp short travel lifters. According to the sales pitch, they bridge the gap between hydraulic and solid lifters at high RPM. Essentially giving you "more cam" than with factory type lifters. Someone with actual experience can chime in on that one.
-Improved Racing Crank Scraper. Might be too labor intensive, as the scraper requires main studs, and dropping the cradle to remove the pan can be a PITA. Maybe 4-5 rwhp from decreased windage.
-A clutch with smaller diameter discs will decrease the MOI and was worth 9 rwhp/ 7 rwtq on the clutch alone on my most recent dyno.
-Get the Mamofied MSD and NW 102, those two mods will be the meat and potatoes to getting you over 600 at the tires SAE. My intake is unported, need to coordinate me sending my intake to Tony for his magic, I'm confident I will crack 600 with that porting alone. I think 25 rwhp is a conservative estimate for gain, from IM/TB alone.
-ATI UD balancer, couple hp from the UD, couple from decreased harmonics, but big peace of mind.
And if milling the heads is not possible, you could also go to a slightly thinner head gasket for more quench (stock .054", FelPro and Cometic make .041 and .040" head gaskets, respectively
I hope that helps. The quest for 600 SAE honest to goodness RWHP. You and me both man.
Mods:
Factory shortblock
WCCH stage 2, ti/mo intake valve, OEM exhaust valve, milled .030", stock head gaskets, PSI springs, ti retainers, CHE rocker upgrade
K501 cam, stock lifters
MSD IM, NW102
Halltech 108
LG 1 7/8" headers, no cats
Stock Mufflers modified for full 3"
Meziere Electric WP
Monster LT1-S Clutch with lightened Billet Steel Flywheel
Performance AFX rotors (lighter than stock type rotors, effects the output on inertia dynos like DJs
285/345 MPSS non-runflat tires (lighter than runflats)
Recommend to you:
-More compression
-Comp short travel lifters. According to the sales pitch, they bridge the gap between hydraulic and solid lifters at high RPM. Essentially giving you "more cam" than with factory type lifters. Someone with actual experience can chime in on that one.
-Improved Racing Crank Scraper. Might be too labor intensive, as the scraper requires main studs, and dropping the cradle to remove the pan can be a PITA. Maybe 4-5 rwhp from decreased windage.
-A clutch with smaller diameter discs will decrease the MOI and was worth 9 rwhp/ 7 rwtq on the clutch alone on my most recent dyno.
-Get the Mamofied MSD and NW 102, those two mods will be the meat and potatoes to getting you over 600 at the tires SAE. My intake is unported, need to coordinate me sending my intake to Tony for his magic, I'm confident I will crack 600 with that porting alone. I think 25 rwhp is a conservative estimate for gain, from IM/TB alone.
-ATI UD balancer, couple hp from the UD, couple from decreased harmonics, but big peace of mind.
And if milling the heads is not possible, you could also go to a slightly thinner head gasket for more quench (stock .054", FelPro and Cometic make .041 and .040" head gaskets, respectively
I hope that helps. The quest for 600 SAE honest to goodness RWHP. You and me both man.
It is hard. Added the ported MSD and 102 TB and got up to 570 rwhp. Getting closer... Thinking of going with a bigger cam. I've got the balancer upgrade, so should be good there.
Wondering about the Vette-Air Hell Widow cam, Black widow, Katech K501, LG G7X5 or G7XX.
It is hard. Added the ported MSD and 102 TB and got up to 570 rwhp. Getting closer... Thinking of going with a bigger cam. I've got the balancer upgrade, so should be good there.
Wondering about the Vette-Air Hell Widow cam, Black widow, Katech K501, LG G7X5 or G7XX.
Any thoughts?
You added a Mamo ported MSD or ported by another source? From 555 to 570?
I'm wondering what the normal gains are from going from stock clutch to something like tony's rps? Also does going from the stock wheels and tires to the 17" weld rts with 315 hoosiers make a difference as far as the dyno goes? I'm talking about dynojet.I'm about 20 away from 600 looking to get there.
BTR stage 4 cam
BTR Spring kit
Heads sent to LME for port job and mill
Stock throttle body ported by Tony Mamo
MSD intake manifold ported by Tony Mamo
Haltech Killer bee CAI
1 7/8 headers and catted xpipe
It is hard. Added the ported MSD and 102 TB and got up to 570 rwhp. Getting closer... Thinking of going with a bigger cam. I've got the balancer upgrade, so should be good there.
Wondering about the Vette-Air Hell Widow cam, Black widow, Katech K501, LG G7X5 or G7XX.
Any thoughts?
According to the previous owner, who had it built at LG, mine has a G7XX. I have a twin disc carbon clutch and it isn't exactly daily driver material IMO. Sure is fun though!
I don't have a dyno sheet for it, but Anthony might. It was Adam Tobolowsky's car.
According to the previous owner, who had it built at LG, mine has a G7XX. I have a twin disc carbon clutch and it isn't exactly daily driver material IMO. Sure is fun though!
I don't have a dyno sheet for it, but Anthony might. It was Adam Tobolowsky's car.
Mine isn't a daily driver either. Just looking for fun on the weekend. Did you upgrade your pistons for the G7XX? LG suggest to use forged pistons for this cam.
BTR stage 4 cam
BTR Spring kit
Heads sent to LME for port job and mill
Stock throttle body ported by Tony Mamo
MSD intake manifold ported by Tony Mamo
Haltech Killer bee CAI
1 7/8 headers and catted xpipe
Mine isn't a daily driver either. Just looking for fun on the weekend. Did you upgrade your pistons for the G7XX? LG suggest to use forged pistons for this cam.
Something isn't right about all of this. Particularly, you are down on torque ALOT, which is typical of:
poorly thought out parts combinations OR
Tuner lacks capability OR
dyno is just really stingy
I'll say the third one is not likely though. The car is making 570/500, which tells me it probably has a large duration and probably a higher LSA, something like 114 or more. I could be way off, but I will be very surprised if you tell me that cam has less than 240/250 duration. Given the way this cam carries all the way out, I'd say cam size is not the problem when it comes to peak HP although I personally would be pissed to be down on torque with all that stuff on the car. Leads back to one of those three things I mentioned above.
----------------------------------
Any H/C package w/ full bolt-ons should get just about anyone to 580/530 on these cars on a non-stingy dyno - especially Mamofied bolt-ons. The smaller cams will make considerably more torque than the larger ones but generally don't produce as much torque past 6000rpms or so. I prefer these sorts of cams myself because they are more fun on the street and provide better drivability because they generally don't have as much overlap as the larger cams. While it is an overgeneralization, I usually judge a cam by it's HP to Torque ratio. This summarizes where the power is being made and how "peaky" it is. A car with a lot less torque than HP is very peaky and thus will generally have a large or very large cam. It's pretty common to see this since over-camming a street-duty LS7 is the thing to do nowadays. I like small to moderate-sized cams so I generally favor those with a set of Tri-Y's over the larger cam w/ 4-1's. Although any combination can make 600rwhp in the right conditions, the trade-offs are different. I'm saying all of this because I've seen the very same cam as mine make 590/560 with the stock TB and intake manifold and a 1 3/4 to 2" Pfadt Tri-Y header and CAI.
Compression bump would help, but you don't need anything over 11.5 to make 600rwhp. Sure, more will help but the power can be made at modest compression ratios.
Last edited by fueledpassion; 04-29-2016 at 01:39 PM.
Something isn't right about all of this. Particularly, you are down on torque ALOT, which is typical of:
poorly thought out parts combinations OR
Tuner lacks capability OR
dyno is just really stingy
I'll say the second one is not likely though. The car is making 570/500, which tells me it probably has a large duration and probably a higher LSA, something like 114 or more. I could be way off, but I will be very surprised if you tell me that cam has less than 240/250 duration. Given the way this cam carries all the way out, I'd say cam size is not the problem when it comes to peak HP although I personally would be pissed to be down on torque with all that stuff on the car. Leads back to one of those three things I mentioned above.
----------------------------------
Any H/C package w/ full bolt-ons should get just about anyone to 580/530 on these cars on a non-stingy dyno - especially Mamofied bolt-ons. The smaller cams will make considerably more torque than the larger ones but generally don't produce as much torque past 5500rpms or so. I prefer these sorts of cams myself because they are more fun on the street and provide better drivability because they generally don't have as much overlap as the larger cams. While it is an overgeneralization, I usually judge a cam by it's HP to Torque ratio. This summarizes where the power is being made and how "peaky" it is. A car with a lot less torque than HP is very peaky and thus will generally have a large or very large cam. It's pretty common to see this since over-camming a street-duty LS7 is the thing to do nowadays. I like small to moderate-sized cams so I generally favor those with a set of Tri-Y's over the larger cam w/ 4-1's. Although any combination can make 600rwhp in the right conditions, the trade-offs are different. I'm saying all of this because I've seen the very same cam as mine make 590/560 with the stock TB and intake manifold and a 1 3/4 to 2" Pfadt Tri-Y header and CAI.
Compression bump would help, but you don't need anything over 11.5 to make 600rwhp. Sure, more will help but the power can be made at modest compression ratios.
01-27-2016, 10:49 AM
