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[Z06] Potential buyer questions

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Old 02-09-2016, 05:12 PM
  #21  
MTPZ06
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Originally Posted by dereknel015
So 3LZ and half the mileage for 43 ish, you still think for this car 40+?. Wow...if this all pans out...
No, its a sub-$40K car, but probably still worth $8-10K more than what you may be able to grab it for if its as clean as you say it is. Like I said before, its a lot of car for the money...as long as nothing is majorly wrong with the car, you certainly wont get hurt buying it at that price.
Old 02-09-2016, 05:15 PM
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Yeah, I was thinking 40k seems to high based on the small sample of the market ive seen. I'm thinking drive it for a few months, and sell it for an easy(ish) 35k *knock on wood*. Thanks for your help guys.
Old 02-09-2016, 07:30 PM
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Maybe the market around me is high.

I would expect that car around here to be right at 40k, maybe 41k ask. Depending on 1LZ, 2LZ or 3LZ. Especially with the heads fixed which is worth 1500-2000 right there to the right buyer.

At 28k you need to JUMP ON THIS CAR. Why are you still posting days later. BUY THE CAR NOW.
Old 02-10-2016, 09:08 AM
  #24  
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Getting it today ( as long as all goes planned) will keep you guys updated.
Old 02-10-2016, 01:01 PM
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Originally Posted by dereknel015
Getting it today ( as long as all goes planned) will keep you guys updated.
Post up some pics if you do
Old 02-11-2016, 10:19 AM
  #26  
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35k cash out the door. I said 28k to you guys as a little buffer, but we had planned on 35k all along, as long as everything checked out. Few pics below. What do you guys think?

Its in great condition and I love it, but a few questions/comments:
1. The hatch doesn't open when you hit the button by the license plate, remote, or under the steering wheel. Have to use the hard key and manually open it. I have read about the latch being stuck and maybe needs to be cleaned out? I will look more into that after work. Anyone experienced that?

2. I am sure not used to a cam lol. The car shakes at stoplights some, and is pretty rough. I know this is all normal but hard to get used to coming from a BMW.

3. Its so low lol, he has eibach lowering bolts on it. I haven't looked into it much, but are those adjustable?

4. He has LEDs in most of the car including map lamps, reverse lights, turn signals, etc. The signal blinks extra fast for some reason, I am assuming its because of the LEDs and maybe a short/bulb out? The front signals/blinkers don't work but he said they just need new bulbs. Thoughts?

5. He took the ac belt off when he was replacing/adjusting the tensioner. He said AC pump works fine, he just decided to take it off (its in the trunk) for more power/its not needed. Seems a little tough to put back on.




Last edited by dereknel015; 03-11-2016 at 02:47 PM.
Old 02-11-2016, 10:24 AM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by dereknel015
27k cash out the door. I said 28k to you guys as a little buffer, but we had planned on 27k all along, as long as everything checked out. Few pics below. What do you guys think?

Its in great condition and I love it, but a few questions/comments:
1. The hatch doesn't open when you hit the button by the license plate, remote, or under the steering wheel. Have to use the hard key and manually open it. I have read about the latch being stuck and maybe needs to be cleaned out? I will look more into that after work. Anyone experienced that?

2. I am sure not used to a cam lol. The car shakes at stoplights some, and is pretty rough. I know this is all normal but hard to get used to coming from a BMW.

3. Its so low lol, he has eibach lowering bolts on it. I haven't looked into it much, but are those adjustable?

4. He has LEDs in most of the car including map lamps, reverse lights, turn signals, etc. The signal blinks extra fast for some reason, I am assuming its because of the LEDs and maybe a short/bulb out? The front signals/blinkers don't work but he said they just need new bulbs. Thoughts?

5. He took the ac belt off when he was replacing/adjusting the tensioner. He said AC pump works fine, he just decided to take it off (its in the trunk) for more power/its not needed. Seems a little tough to put back on.
Congratulations! You got a great deal, by a lot!
  1. Since none of the buttons work, sound like the latch mechanism is shot. Replacement isn't too difficult.
  2. Even without the cam, these cars will feel a bit 'rougher' than any bmw.
  3. The bolts are adjustable.
  4. It could very well be just the bulbs. Cheaper LED replacements do not have the right resistance and can make the signals do strange things.
  5. Sounds fishy to me... Even if you have to overhaul the entire AC system, you'll still be ahead of the game in terms of money spent.
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Old 02-11-2016, 10:35 AM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by 08mojo
Congratulations! You got a great deal, by a lot!
  1. Since none of the buttons work, sound like the latch mechanism is shot. Replacement isn't too difficult.
  2. Even without the cam, these cars will feel a bit 'rougher' than any bmw.
  3. The bolts are adjustable.
  4. It could very well be just the bulbs. Cheaper LED replacements do not have the right resistance and can make the signals do strange things.
  5. Sounds fishy to me... Even if you have to overhaul the entire AC system, you'll still be ahead of the game in terms of money spent.
This guy was all about power, so I can kinda see it. I will try to put it on myself when I have time, or maybe bring it to a shop hoping it won't cost much. But yeah I agree, seemed a little weird, but time will tell. Also, If the ac compressor is running and there isn't any resistance (aka, the belt being on) will that burn the motor?
Old 02-11-2016, 11:13 AM
  #29  
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Congratulations Derek. You got a great deal. Now lets get an A&A kit on this car like the original owner planned.
Old 02-11-2016, 11:23 AM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by HorsePowerAddicts
Congratulations Derek. You got a great deal. Now lets get an A&A kit on this car like the original owner planned.
Haha! Maybe down the road. It's a monster as it sits, but the itch may come. Will keep you guys in mind. Thanks again for answering my questions in my email
Old 02-11-2016, 03:59 PM
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Originally Posted by dereknel015
Haha! Maybe down the road. It's a monster as it sits, but the itch may come. Will keep you guys in mind. Thanks again for answering my questions in my email
Lucky dogg!
Old 02-11-2016, 04:18 PM
  #32  
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Another question..This vid is from the previous owner, @ 50 sec when he shuts the car off and it makes that weird rattle, is that normal? Im sure it is but I'm just **** and not used to some of the sounds this car makes.

Old 02-11-2016, 04:33 PM
  #33  
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You got the deal of the century. That is a 40k car all day long.
Old 02-11-2016, 05:29 PM
  #34  
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Rattle is normal
Old 02-12-2016, 04:41 AM
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OP, if you get your questions answered and ultimately feel comfortable buying this car, go for it.

Please disregard the flipping and value advice youre receiving in this thread.

No one on this planet (other than a complete mental patient or full on retard) would pay anywhere near $40k (let alone more) for an 08Z wtih 62k miles.
Old 02-12-2016, 08:47 AM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by important
OP, if you get your questions answered and ultimately feel comfortable buying this car, go for it.

Please disregard the flipping and value advice youre receiving in this thread.

No one on this planet (other than a complete mental patient or full on retard) would pay anywhere near $40k (let alone more) for an 08Z wtih 62k miles.
Bought it. Its an 09 with a little less than 62k miles, also has the head work done. 27k out the door, I figured if I want to sell it I could probably get 35k pretty easy, I wouldn't try for 40k lol
Old 02-12-2016, 08:58 AM
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Originally Posted by important
OP, if you get your questions answered and ultimately feel comfortable buying this car, go for it.

Please disregard the flipping and value advice youre receiving in this thread.

No one on this planet (other than a complete mental patient or full on retard) would pay anywhere near $40k (let alone more) for an 08Z wtih 62k miles.
While that might be an accurate statement today, just 6 months ago a stock 08Z, in hard to find colors and 2LZ trim with 50K miles were going for 37-39K easily. Like I said earlier, a stock 08 JSB with 100K miles went for $35K just last Summer in DFW area. In fact, last Summer you'd have had to purchase a c6Z on a salvaged or rebuilt title if you wanted to pay high 20's...

When summer rolls around, these cars usually increase in demand so I'd expect this car to sell quickly at $37K in 4-5 months.

Last edited by fueledpassion; 02-12-2016 at 09:09 AM.
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Old 02-12-2016, 09:16 AM
  #38  
RedZ4me
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because it has the msd 2 step , I would not buy it. As someone else said, buy stock or near stock.

Edit - I guess my advice is too late. So............congrats !!!

Last edited by RedZ4me; 02-12-2016 at 09:17 AM.
Old 02-12-2016, 09:31 AM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by RedZ4me
because it has the msd 2 step , I would not buy it. As someone else said, buy stock or near stock.

Edit - I guess my advice is too late. So............congrats !!!
So you wouldn't buy a 09 Z06 with 60k miles for $27k (which also has the head work done) just because there is a 2 step? He just installed it on 1/9/16 and have the paperwork for it, I won't use it therefore Im going to look into taking it off and selling
Old 02-12-2016, 10:48 AM
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Originally Posted by dereknel015
So you wouldn't buy a 09 Z06 with 60k miles for $27k (which also has the head work done) just because there is a 2 step? He just installed it on 1/9/16 and have the paperwork for it, I won't use it therefore Im going to look into taking it off and selling
I think he was implying that the car was abused.

Thing is, on a properly built LS7, you can beat on it all day long and it will be fine. Never in my life have I seen a demographic so caught up in mileage and how the car was driven prior to them. I remember my 00 Vert and my 04 Goat. Both were beaten on pretty hard and I never had issues with them (other than a grenaded pumpkin on the Goat - but those were built weak, unlike the C6Z pumpkin).

How it was maintained makes a lot more sense to consider. Another consideration is the head flaws, which consists of non-concentric guides, poor choice of materials for exhaust valve and guides (my opinion) and flat-tappet rockers that like to side-load into the guide. Of course these things drop valves!

And as far as your choice goes, I'm glad you did it. I wish I had bought a modded Z from the get go. Started with a stock 06 for $36.9K, fixed the heads, went ahead and ported them..went ahead and bought a cam, which now requires a tune with it. I ended up dumping $6500 into the car 2 months after I bought it. I'll take a $3K hit if I were to sell it now for sure and that's before I purchase these Pfadt headers and have my MSD intake installed/retuned. Rest assured, I'll need a new clutch within 10K miles after that and I'll likely get the CAI and 102TB at that point. There's another $4K in performance mods right there. Buying an already built top end on the C6Z is a smart idea, IMO. If you can learn to be satisfied with whatever it has, then perhaps it wont be such a huge money pit for you. At least you know that you can mod up to about $8-10K before you start approaching break-even should you decide to sell it. Truth is, if you put another $8K into it, then the car is gonna be worth well over $40K at that point.

Last edited by fueledpassion; 02-12-2016 at 10:56 AM.


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