encasedmetal

wondering if anyone can explain to me how/why a lifter can all of the sudden turn?

08mojo

The lifter tray could crack and fail. The roller could get trash in it and seize. The plunger could collapse, which in turn causes the sequence of events above.

encasedmetal

Anything that can be done to avoid such things? About to put mine back together - everything is fine, but just had a buddy lose one on his ctsv

EX1

Upgrade to link bar lifters. It keeps them from rotating but they are costly.

Morel 5206s seem popular around here.

atljar

And if not link style lifters, at least buy some new lifter trays.

Josh B.

Cam sprocket bolts have backed out, allowing cam to move, and with it the lifters. Need to red Loctite those bad boys.

encasedmetal

Bought some trays as preventative maintenance

rio95

Gotta be careful with red if u ever want to remove them. I used blue. So far so good.

Josh B.

"It can be difficult removing Loctite® red threadlocker, and it’s a common vehicle maintenance question. While the strength of our red threadlockers is formidable, and meant to be a permanent assembly method - don't believe the myths... red threadlocker can be disassembled with the right technique.

When disassembling red threadlocker the process is a little different than for other threadlockers. The key is to apply localized heat greater than 550° F. Then, once the threaded assembly is hot, the bolt can be unthreaded. Without applying heat to the assembly, it's likely that over time, a bolt would break before coming loose.

Watch this video for a demonstration on removing red threadlocker:"

http://us.henkel-adhesives-blog.com/...-Threadlocker/

Michael_D

I destroyed the cam retention plate trying to get the countersunk bolts out, after a gorilla over torqued them, and used red Loctite. Had to chisel the bolt heads off, pry the plate off, and drill the bolts out and use an easy out. Broke several torx drivers in the process as well.

I used a torch after I broke the first torx driver. Could not get the bolts hot enough, as there is simply too much heat transfer to the block.

Cam bolts might be easier to remove, and you could get some heat on them. I'd still use blue, if I wanted to. I see no need for it though, as long as you use the proper torque. Come to think of it, I don't recall ever using Locktite on a cam gear bolt, ever.

Regardless, Blue Locktite works just fine. Red, I only use it if I know I can get some good leverage on a fastener, or use heat on it.

Josh B.

Exactly

Cman01

I did blue locktite and a cam gear bolt lockplate = 100% guarantee cam won't walk in the block.

Red locktite is overkill on that area and needing to heat it up to remove it makes me cringe. Heat is good in some areas but engine block/cam gear areas is iffy using heat to remove fasteners. MO