SSMOKE

Would this metal show up in a used oil analysis and if it would what metal would it be?

Schred86

I would guess that its some sort of hardened steel. I would just pop the valve cover and pull one of the rockers out to get a true visual inspection. couldn't take more than 15 mins.




I think they are the same kits. the pics look the same.

jimbo1972

My car has these trunions. I'm use to old school motors where you have set valve lash etc.
Is it really as easy as unbolting the rockers, checking them and bolting them back on and torque to spec? No having to bring to TDC etc....?

08mojo

It is really easy, but I would not unbolt or re-install any of the rockers unless that cylinder is on the base-circle of the cam. Many people will state you don't have to worry about being on the base-circle, but you have to remember the bolts are going into aluminum. I'd hate to be doing a simple check only to rip the threads out of the rocker pedestal.

Once on the base-circle, unbolt the rocker. Disassemble the rocker. From there, you'll likely see damage to the COMP trunion. To re-install the rocker: assemble it back together, then run the bolt down to 22 ft-lbs.

I went one step further and bought an ARP stud kit for the rocker arms. I haven't installed the studs yet, but will be doing so shortly. I cringe every time I perform the final torque with the stock bolt--not anymore.

got2hav1

You can see your cores back to them after you install . That is the way I'm doing it. Just give them a ring and discuss.

SSMOKE

I am hoping for a quick response. I removed one rocker to inspect the CC trunnion. I thought that once I removed one snap ring the trunnion would slide out for an easy inspection. I now have both snap rings removed and the trunnion still will not slide out. What else do I need to do? TIA

Unreal

Push it out. They are a press fit in. Put it on a socket so it is supported on the rocker body, then tap it the center part with a hammer until it pops out.

SSMOKE

Thanks Unreal, going to go do it right now. My 2007 Z has 18,000 total miles. At 10,000 miles I did WCCH Stage 2 heads, a TORQUER 110 and the CC trunnions. (561/511) I only drive it on the street and while I definitely do not beat on it, I generally keep the RPM's somewhat high. Keeping my fingers crossed, but not too optimistic. I will post pics for the CF community.

SSMOKE

OK so other than installing CC trunnion kit with the help of a friend about 8,000 miles ago, I have very little experience with these internals. Are these trunnions toast and do they need to be replaced ASAP? If so, I guess that I will order the Straub Technologies kit. I get pay to play. Regardless this is irritating. Further, I cringe when I tighten those rockers down onto the pedestal at 22 ft/lbs. (I have NO idea about cam position.) I have a TORQUER 110 and WCCH Stage 2 heads. 18,000 total miles on my 07 Z and around 8,000 with H/C and trunnions. I am going to put it back together until the Straub kit gets here.

1972bluelt1

I'd call that toast. You can turn the motor over with a 24mm box wrench on the crank pulley. I don't know how to find TDC other than turning it until #1 valves are both closed, place 1/2 of the rockers per the manual (don't know the ones offhand) rotate the crank 360* and set other eight. If you don't have that info, Ill look it up.

I'd also invest in a small arbor press to install the new trunnion set.

1972bluelt1

I am going to put it back together until the Straub kit gets here.

I wouldn't run those any more if I could help it.

Tightening procedure: AT TDC #1 tighten ex rockers 1,2,7,8 and int rockers 1,3,4,5. Rotate 360* #6 TDC tighten ex rockers 3,4,5,6 and int 2,6,7,8. I'd also change the oil ASAP and put in magnetic drain plugs if you don't already have them.

outhouse

Dude those are wasted.


Its the worst set ive seen there so bad, you now have had metal shavings going through your system for a long time.


Your oil filter is full of metal particles

outhouse

Do not run the damned motor until this is fixed. Your down.

SSMOKE

Thanks for posting the tightening instructions. Once I figure out TDC I will follow your instructions. Thanks everyone for all the sound advice. I will not run the car until I get the Straub kit.

rjacobs

I just torqued all mine to 22 and heat cycled the motor, checked torque, all at 22, heat cycled a second time, checked torque, all still at 22. When I do an oil change here in another few hundred miles(at 5k) ill be pulling the valve covers to inspect and will check torque again and I expect to find all at.....22.

Unreal

Those are some of the worst I've seen. Glad some people are listening and actually inspecting.

Schred86

yea those are pretty worn. when i pressed the comp bearings out the needle bearings started to fall out. i would never try to reinstall those. and i used the install/removal tool on a vise.

MTPZ06

Change the oil and filter while your down if you do your own oil changes. Put the Storaub kit in and then change the oil and filter again in about 500 miles to hopefully flush as much of the Comp metal particles out of your oil system as possible.

SSMOKE

I have never ever changed the oil as much as I do with this car, but will take your advice for sure. I recently (1,000 miles ago) switched to Mobil 1 0W40. It will be interesting to see what that oil shows on a BSL UOA. I just bought a new in box Straub kit from a forum member. Hopefully, I will be ready to drive by next Friday. (fingers crossed)

1972bluelt1

I went one step further and bought an ARP stud kit for the rocker arms. I haven't installed the studs yet, but will be doing so shortly. I cringe every time I perform the final torque with the stock bolt--not anymore.[/QUOTE]


Is there a stud kit specifically for the LS7, as the bolts are much shorter other LS bolts?