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[Z06] New Z06: Help me get to 650hp!

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Old 04-23-2016, 08:07 PM
  #21  
Pelan
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Originally Posted by rjacobs
Intake manifold and 102mm throttle body will net you 20-30. That setup thats on there is probably close to running out of injector.

Beyond that, IMO things get silly with big cams, completely different aftermarket heads(the WCCH stage 2 heads are already ported pretty decently so not much more to be had there), and other tricks. Then you still have the factor of the stock block and its thin cylinder liners and pistons that dont take to kindly to detonation.

There is another thread where a guy went all out, solid roller cam, etc... and made 607, which I think is low, should be 650, but something is up with that car.

So is it possible, yea, are you ready to deal with the driveability and maintenance aspect of doing a big cam? Or a solid roller cam? Or building the bottom end(you can only go so much lift on a big cam before you get into piston to valve contact).

And E85, go for it if you want, but its expensive to do right and I dont think will net you the gains you think it might.
Im trying the solid roller route. I think this thing is going to be nuts with some mamofied heads and msd intake which I also have going on the car.

Last edited by Pelan; 04-23-2016 at 08:08 PM.
Old 04-23-2016, 08:18 PM
  #22  
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Sweet Z! Congrats. Honestly....at the end of the day after you have spent considerable time, effort, and $$$ to get the car there n/a.......is it worth it? What are your long term goals? Don't want to sound like an a$$ clown...but 650 aint $hit......so what's the big picture for you? Will you keep it like this and be happy? How will the driveability be? I say cut to the chase and go s/c or tt now and enjoy it from the start and kick a$$ while doing it.
Old 04-23-2016, 10:44 PM
  #23  
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I'm sure it's been mentioned already, but a solid 40rwhp is being left on the table without Tony Mamo's MSD intake. A better cam will help u get there too. I can put u in contact with one of the engineers of those headers u have. He can spec u a proper cam that takes full advantage of those tri-y's.

600rwhp is possible. 650, I don't know.
Old 04-28-2016, 10:15 AM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by rjacobs
Then your ID1000 injectors for another $950.
You can get brand new ID1000s for $750 shipped from certain places. I can put you in contact with a company that will sell them to you for that much. Suckers pay retail.
Old 04-28-2016, 11:35 AM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by Dubstep Shep
You can get brand new ID1000s for $750 shipped from certain places. I can put you in contact with a company that will sell them to you for that much. Suckers pay retail.
I've been paying $800 drop shipped. Can you PM me? Always nice to have options.
Old 04-28-2016, 12:46 PM
  #26  
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I think I would concentrate on getting what I have to the ground. Lower gears, clutch, tires, and some suspension work.
Randy from Ragin Racin, was at the Hot Springs Corvette Weekend, last week. He had a number over 650. I do not remember if it was blown. Maybe you could give him a call.

Last edited by lebvette; 04-28-2016 at 12:49 PM.
Old 04-28-2016, 04:15 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by MTBSully
Just got my first corvette a week or so ago. Its a 2008 z06, black 3LZ with 11k miles. Bought from BillyBadd here on this site. Love the car so far, and heres a quick rundown of whats already done:

WCCH Stage 2 Heads with Dual Springs
Comp Cams Trunion "upgrade"
CMC GT-20 Cam
Pfadt Longtubes and X-pipe
Callaway Honker Intake
Stock TB and Intake Manifold

Car is insane, but I would like to run e85 since it is readily available. So I plan to piece together an e85 fuel system consisting of flex fuel sensor, walbro 465 pump, ID850 or 1000 injectors and of course a tune. Also plan to do an MSD intake manifold. What else is needed to make low-mid 600s? Do I need a different cam? Can i port the stock throttle body or is a 102mm necessary? Any other suggestions?

Also I have read some pretty bad things about the comp cams trunion kit, anything I should do about that? Obligatory (dirty) pic of the car the day it came off the trailer:




Thanks
About the trunion kit, I have a Boosted auto C5 making over 600 @ crank with the Fast 102 and trunion kit so far so good. Brian tooley is supposed to have the better kit. Nice upgrade if it is installed correctly.

Having both head/cam and now a procharger, they are very different animals. Especially with a lightweight ZO6. Must be careful with all that power. It is so easy to fish tail on the hwy and crash. Just saying, it almost happen to me. I have a lot of respect for a S/C and only use the boost on dry flat roads.

Last edited by corvet786c; 04-28-2016 at 04:20 PM.
Old 04-28-2016, 04:42 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by corvet786c
About the trunion kit, I have a Boosted auto C5 making over 600 @ crank with the Fast 102 and trunion kit so far so good. Brian tooley is supposed to have the better kit. Nice upgrade if it is installed correctly.

Having both head/cam and now a procharger, they are very different animals. Especially with a lightweight ZO6. Must be careful with all that power. It is so easy to fish tail on the hwy and crash. Just saying, it almost happen to me. I have a lot of respect for a S/C and only use the boost on dry flat roads.
Your post summarizes why many choose to stay NA in this car. Plus, this car is a contender on any street/weekend warrior level with the NA platform. 600rwhp is nothing to scoff at and with a good tire and gears, the car would be difficult to beat, even for boosted cars.

Additionally, it is considerably cheaper to build (correctly) and cheaper to maintain as well.
Old 04-29-2016, 11:37 AM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by fueledpassion
Your post summarizes why many choose to stay NA in this car. Plus, this car is a contender on any street/weekend warrior level with the NA platform. 600rwhp is nothing to scoff at and with a good tire and gears, the car would be difficult to beat, even for boosted cars.

Additionally, it is considerably cheaper to build (correctly) and cheaper to maintain as well.
It does not matter if the car is 1000 rwhp, which my car is capable of. Just by changing the pulley. If it is not streetable/ drivable whats the point?
Old 04-29-2016, 01:53 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by corvet786c
It does not matter if the car is 1000 rwhp, which my car is capable of. Just by changing the pulley. If it is not streetable/ drivable whats the point?
I would like to have an educated response to that but I'm not sure what part of my post you are disagreeing or agreeing with?

Anyways, my car is only 500/450 and I love driving it. I can drive it hard in the lower gears as long as I roll into the throttle in first. Anything after that and I just need to be sure that the contact with the road is good...

I eventually plan to get my car to the high 500's but honestly I'm done at the point. If I want to go faster, I'll get a taller tire and some gears and call it a day. Anything past that is darn hard to keep control of on the street without staying under 75% throttle.

Last edited by fueledpassion; 04-29-2016 at 01:58 PM.
Old 05-03-2016, 12:00 AM
  #31  
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Here is my recipe

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...d-results.html

I used a k501 cam and 13:1 compression. iD850s are enough. Stock pump is holding so far
Old 05-03-2016, 10:11 AM
  #32  
MTBSully
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Originally Posted by UniTink72
Here is my recipe

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...d-results.html

I used a k501 cam and 13:1 compression. iD850s are enough. Stock pump is holding so far
Wish my heads were milled. That 13:1 is really helping you out
Old 05-03-2016, 10:45 AM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by MTBSully
Wish my heads were milled. That 13:1 is really helping you out
Yea when you go e85 you might as well make use of its octane. Got to watch the cam's dynamic compression ratio though. That compression wouldn't have worked with a Katech Torquer
Old 05-03-2016, 12:40 PM
  #34  
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Anyone have any feedback on my cam? Should I go bigger, or maybe start with MSD Intake and 102mm throttle body and go from there?
Old 05-03-2016, 03:34 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by fueledpassion
Your post summarizes why many choose to stay NA in this car. Plus, this car is a contender on any street/weekend warrior level with the NA platform. 600rwhp is nothing to scoff at and with a good tire and gears, the car would be difficult to beat, even for boosted cars.

Additionally, it is considerably cheaper to build (correctly) and cheaper to maintain as well.
Neither of them is cheaper than nitrous. And I don't think H/C/I is much cheaper than run-of-the-mill blower kit.

Assuming you buy all new parts (if you buy used, both options get cheaper)

Halltech $500
Headers $850 (many people spend much more than that for headers too)
Camshaft $400
Ported heads $1000 (assuming guide fix applies to both, this is only for the actual porting and milling)
Mamo ported MSD $1500? (Could be low on this)
NW 102 $600
Injectors $400
Pushrods $100

N/A is ~$5,350 plus some gaskets/seals for the cam.

A&A kit is $5,500 but they go on sale from time-to-time.

If all you care about is price, use nitrous. Price shouldn't be a major determining factor if you want 600 rwhp and are deciding between a blower and N/A.

Perhaps you're simply considering the upfront cost of the blower being more expensive? With an N/A build, some things you can add over time.
Old 05-04-2016, 02:22 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by MTBSully
Anyone have any feedback on my cam? Should I go bigger, or maybe start with MSD Intake and 102mm throttle body and go from there?
If 650 plus is your goal then your cam isn't optimal for big power. My cam is pretty big on a 109 and with a GOOD tuner, which I have, it putts around with hardly no buck. Since you have E85, use it! Angle mill the heads to 13.6-13.8 and get a huge cam. The higher compression will bleed off the large cam which makes it very street friendly. I have the MSD and NW 102, works great and is a must if you want to hit the 650 mark.

So to summarize here's what you need for 650 on E85:
13.6-13.8 heads
Larger cam
MSD/102 TB
ARH 2"
fuel pump or boost-a-pump
S.I.R.P. Tune

What I would do If I was in your shoes:
Get the MSD/102 and a tune from the man. If you feel you need more, see above.

Last edited by 1Fast99z; 05-04-2016 at 02:32 PM.
Old 05-04-2016, 02:30 PM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by Tech
Neither of them is cheaper than nitrous. And I don't think H/C/I is much cheaper than run-of-the-mill blower kit.

Assuming you buy all new parts (if you buy used, both options get cheaper)

Halltech $500
Headers $850 (many people spend much more than that for headers too)
Camshaft $400
Ported heads $1000 (assuming guide fix applies to both, this is only for the actual porting and milling)
Mamo ported MSD $1500? (Could be low on this)
NW 102 $600
Injectors $400
Pushrods $100

N/A is ~$5,350 plus some gaskets/seals for the cam.

A&A kit is $5,500 but they go on sale from time-to-time.

If all you care about is price, use nitrous. Price shouldn't be a major determining factor if you want 600 rwhp and are deciding between a blower and N/A.

Perhaps you're simply considering the upfront cost of the blower being more expensive? With an N/A build, some things you can add over time.
There is no comparison to a 650 rwhp NA car vs a supercharged one, the difference is night and day! I can tell from your pricing that you have never built a car. A na E85 650rwhp build will cost more than a generic bolt on supercharger kit. But It will also smack it around like a red headed step child!

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Old 05-04-2016, 02:41 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by 1Fast99z
There is no comparison to a 650 rwhp NA car vs a supercharged one, the difference is night and day! I can tell from your pricing that you have never built a car. A na E85 650rwhp build will cost more than a generic bolt on supercharger kit. But It will also smack it around like a red headed step child!
Actually.. I have but it was on an LS6 engine (so ~490rwhp, but parts prices were the same). I gave you the cheapest possible scenario intentionally. The person I replied to said that building an NA car was cheaper. I proved my point adequately.

He was also talking about 600rwhp, not 650rwhp. 600 is easier to do than 650 on an N/A LS7.

And finally.. I'm not saying which one is faster. The boosted car can definitely be faster, but not generally at the same power level. You can't squeeze much more out of an N/A LS7 than 650 rwhp.. but you can do 800+ pretty easily out of a boosted car. That would be a fun race.
Old 05-10-2016, 02:01 PM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by Tech
Neither of them is cheaper than nitrous. And I don't think H/C/I is much cheaper than run-of-the-mill blower kit.

Assuming you buy all new parts (if you buy used, both options get cheaper)

Halltech $500
Headers $850 (many people spend much more than that for headers too)
Camshaft $400
Ported heads $1000 (assuming guide fix applies to both, this is only for the actual porting and milling)
Mamo ported MSD $1500? (Could be low on this)
NW 102 $600
Injectors $400
Pushrods $100

N/A is ~$5,350 plus some gaskets/seals for the cam.

A&A kit is $5,500 but they go on sale from time-to-time.

If all you care about is price, use nitrous. Price shouldn't be a major determining factor if you want 600 rwhp and are deciding between a blower and N/A.

Perhaps you're simply considering the upfront cost of the blower being more expensive? With an N/A build, some things you can add over time.
Sort of, but really it has more to do with human nature. Many people (myself included) will want more power once I put the blower on the car because I know full well that very blower can probably give me an additional 150-200rwhp more than the already powerful 650ish horsepower. And down to rabbit hole we go...built engine, built tranny, etc all because the car "could" have 800-1000rwhp. Otherwise, turning up the boost will still result in a built engine/tranny etc because you'll start breaking things. So when I said all that, I was referring to the Total Cost of Ownership (TCO) which was is a concept that many people don't seem to consider very much when making decisions with finances.

With NA setups, you can pretty easily hit 570-600rwhp w/ just about any mix and match bolt-ons, cam etc. After that, you can spend considerably more to get the solid roller going, perhaps ITB's or something exotic like that and a conversion to E85 and compression bumped to something approaching 12:1 static..at this point you've invested another $5-10K into the car for what?...40-70 additional horsepower? Hardly worth it and for myself, it is easy to talk myself out of that one. The gains for the last few ponies do not justify the cost unless you are trying to race your car as a career or something along those lines.

But I do agree that spraying the motor is probably the most economical way to do it, although I prefer my power to be available 100% of the time, even though I don't use it 100% of the time.

If I were really interested in huge N/A power, I'd just pull the LS7 and do a tall deck 502 configuration or something along those lines

Last edited by fueledpassion; 05-10-2016 at 02:09 PM.
Old 05-10-2016, 07:06 PM
  #40  
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It's not "sort of". You can't blame the power adder if you knowingly add more power than your drivetrain can hold.

BTW.. didn't mean to offend anyone by saying "run of the mill" and referred to one vendor's kits. I _have_ that kit and it has exceeded my expectations and has worked flawlessly. I should have said "base centri kit".


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