[Z06] Mantic 9000 Shudder
06-26-2016, 01:21 AM
#1
Intermediate
Thread Starter
Mantic 9000 Shudder
Just put in a mantic 9000 and am getting a real noticeable shudder while taking off in first gear from a complete stop. I'm right around 500 miles after the install. I was wanting to do an auto cross event tomorrow but would that be wise? Is the shudder something that may go away? Thanks
06-26-2016, 09:31 AM
#3
My RXT did it until about 5-700 miles then it noticeably dropped off.
06-26-2016, 09:36 AM
#4
I had a mantic 9000 for one season, put about 7000 miles on it before it started slipping from some nitrous abuses and I had it removed. I had that same shudder on take off and it drove me nuts, mine never got any better and it seemed the longer I drove the worse it got.
I swapped out to a Mcleod RXT and Hinson mounts front and back. I have zero and I mean zero shudder. I don't know if it was a combo of the sloppy worn out OEM mounts and a grabby twin disc but it may have been.
My Mantic was installed by a reputable shop and broken in by them as they put some miles on my newly build bottom end.
I swapped out to a Mcleod RXT and Hinson mounts front and back. I have zero and I mean zero shudder. I don't know if it was a combo of the sloppy worn out OEM mounts and a grabby twin disc but it may have been.
My Mantic was installed by a reputable shop and broken in by them as they put some miles on my newly build bottom end.
06-26-2016, 01:01 PM
#5
Intermediate
Thread Starter
I've done the ranger flush method three times now. Almost non existent now. The fluid looked pretty bad at the first flush. Not really dark but could see some what I'm guessing clutch dust particles.
06-26-2016, 01:05 PM
#6
Mine did it for the first 300 miles then started to dramatically drop off. I have not noticed any the last few times I have drove it.
06-26-2016, 05:40 PM
#7
Safety Car
Very common on twin disk clutches. It'll lessen as the clutch breaks in but it'll probably never go completely away. You have to change how you drive the car to avoid it.
06-26-2016, 10:42 PM
#8
Pro
It isn't that it is a twin disk, but rather a very aggressive friction material. Cerametallic friction material is for RACE clutches...they are going to misbehave a bit. This is why I tell everyone to be careful not to over clutch your car. You don't need a clutch that holds 1000lb-ft for an N/A street car.
06-27-2016, 12:12 AM
#9
Safety Car
It isn't that it is a twin disk, but rather a very aggressive friction material. Cerametallic friction material is for RACE clutches...they are going to misbehave a bit. This is why I tell everyone to be careful not to over clutch your car. You don't need a clutch that holds 1000lb-ft for an N/A street car.
06-27-2016, 08:53 AM
#10
Safety Car
It isn't that it is a twin disk, but rather a very aggressive friction material. Cerametallic friction material is for RACE clutches...they are going to misbehave a bit. This is why I tell everyone to be careful not to over clutch your car. You don't need a clutch that holds 1000lb-ft for an N/A street car.
06-27-2016, 09:27 AM
#11
Team Owner
Clutches ratings are not a straight forward thing.
If you make 600-700rwhp and plan to run a drag tire and drag race/launch it a lot, you want a clutch rated for 900+ftlbs. If you are just doing roll racing or a normal tire, a stock clutch will hold 600-700rwhp for a long long time. So it just depends on application. If you are just going to do rolls and not slip it/launch it, you can get a far less aggressive clutch.
If you make 600-700rwhp and plan to run a drag tire and drag race/launch it a lot, you want a clutch rated for 900+ftlbs. If you are just doing roll racing or a normal tire, a stock clutch will hold 600-700rwhp for a long long time. So it just depends on application. If you are just going to do rolls and not slip it/launch it, you can get a far less aggressive clutch.
06-27-2016, 12:02 PM
#12
Pro
Your RPS wasn't pure organic, so it cannot be directly compared to those that are. The RST and LT1-S clutches that I've driven do NOT chatter at all. You're the only one I've seen report that the RST isn't smooth as silk. And to clear up any confusion...chatter is another word for "driveline shudder" at clutch engagement, it doesn't describe noise. If you have an RST that is chattering, something is wrong...and given McLeods shoddy quality control, I guess I wouldn't be surprised. Just look at the issues people have with the RXT. Exactly why I skipped McLeod.
I drive my car several times a week with an LT1-S and it still has ZERO chatter and makes no noise whatsoever. Only major difference from stock is that it bites harder at engagement and has a smaller engagement window. Other than that, you'd never know it wasn't stock. I've driven dozens of LS vehicles over the years with various clutches in them, ranging from stock to drag only. There is a reason that I chose the clutch that I did.
Like I've said in other threads, if you have a strictly street N/A Z06, that doesn't see drag strip duty, there is just NO reason to use anything more aggressive than an RST/Mantic 9000 organic/LT1-S...All you're doing is making the drivability worse.
06-27-2016, 01:48 PM
#13
I had a monster lt1 sc and my god it had horrific manners, unless u dropped the clutch with massive revs it was horrible to drive
Monster swapped it to a lt1 s and my god the car is now amazing
Both are twins , just ones organic I think!
I would go out give it some abuse and see if t gets better otherwise just swap it over to another - monster lt1 s is just amazing mate honestly
Monster swapped it to a lt1 s and my god the car is now amazing
Both are twins , just ones organic I think!
I would go out give it some abuse and see if t gets better otherwise just swap it over to another - monster lt1 s is just amazing mate honestly
06-27-2016, 03:23 PM
#14
Safety Car
I didn't say organic CAN'T...I said that the chatter isn't due to it being a twin disk. The aggressive friction material is responsible, along with the lack of a marcel spring in the cerametallic disk.
Your RPS wasn't pure organic, so it cannot be directly compared to those that are. The RST and LT1-S clutches that I've driven do NOT chatter at all. You're the only one I've seen report that the RST isn't smooth as silk. And to clear up any confusion...chatter is another word for "driveline shudder" at clutch engagement, it doesn't describe noise. If you have an RST that is chattering, something is wrong...and given McLeods shoddy quality control, I guess I wouldn't be surprised. Just look at the issues people have with the RXT. Exactly why I skipped McLeod.
I drive my car several times a week with an LT1-S and it still has ZERO chatter and makes no noise whatsoever. Only major difference from stock is that it bites harder at engagement and has a smaller engagement window. Other than that, you'd never know it wasn't stock. I've driven dozens of LS vehicles over the years with various clutches in them, ranging from stock to drag only. There is a reason that I chose the clutch that I did.
Like I've said in other threads, if you have a strictly street N/A Z06, that doesn't see drag strip duty, there is just NO reason to use anything more aggressive than an RST/Mantic 9000 organic/LT1-S...All you're doing is making the drivability worse.
Your RPS wasn't pure organic, so it cannot be directly compared to those that are. The RST and LT1-S clutches that I've driven do NOT chatter at all. You're the only one I've seen report that the RST isn't smooth as silk. And to clear up any confusion...chatter is another word for "driveline shudder" at clutch engagement, it doesn't describe noise. If you have an RST that is chattering, something is wrong...and given McLeods shoddy quality control, I guess I wouldn't be surprised. Just look at the issues people have with the RXT. Exactly why I skipped McLeod.
I drive my car several times a week with an LT1-S and it still has ZERO chatter and makes no noise whatsoever. Only major difference from stock is that it bites harder at engagement and has a smaller engagement window. Other than that, you'd never know it wasn't stock. I've driven dozens of LS vehicles over the years with various clutches in them, ranging from stock to drag only. There is a reason that I chose the clutch that I did.
Like I've said in other threads, if you have a strictly street N/A Z06, that doesn't see drag strip duty, there is just NO reason to use anything more aggressive than an RST/Mantic 9000 organic/LT1-S...All you're doing is making the drivability worse.
We're really mincing words here... there are OEM multi-disk clutches that don't chatter. But I'm not convinced there _any_ aftermarket twin disk clutches that don't chatter, ever. You say it's friction material composition. I say it's any aftermarket twin disk. No friction material I've found is immune to chatter. Organic is better (like I said previously) but it does still chatter.