ckassen

Well guys, I am obviously new to the forum from a posting standpoint, but have been doing reading/research for the past couple of months.

Starting off, my goal with this thread is to get your recommendations on the most cost effective method of building a LSX Z06. Every time I finish a project, I always look back and realize there are things I should have done better or differently. I am hoping you guys can help me understand some of your mistakes in order to keep me from repeating them myself.

Final goal of car: 93 Octane weekend driver, no methanol, no NOS, forced induction, maximum HP while maintaining drive-ability (Estimating 800HP). Car will not be raced, simply street.

I will be doing 100% of the work myself (other than maybe transmission). I am not just wanting to own a fast car, I want to enjoy the process of building it and confirm everything is done perfectly.

Questions:
What year car to start with? Obviously newer is better, but newer is also more expensive. Condition of title/history does not bother me, I will likely never sell the car once I have it set up the way I prefer.

Thinking 2008 or 2009 with ~50k miles would be ideal. Try and pick a clean one up for $32-35k. Do these cars have a big issue with suspension/bearings going out?

Would you look for a car that is lightly modified? Say headers, aftermarket manifold, in order to save some cost on new parts?

Would you sell the engine as a package up front or use the block as a core and sell the heads/none essential parts separately?

Driveline: I do not plan on drag racing the car, simply rolls/highway pulls, how necessary is a transmission/rear end build with the TR6060?

I am sure more questions will come up, but this is a good start...

Thanks,
Chris

AzDave47

The 2009 has updated wheel bearing that are improved over 2006-08, but there are SKF bearing hubs available for all years now so that may not be a big factor. 800HP with good drivability on 93 may be quite a challenge as will finding a good running 08 or 09 in the $32-35K range. Perhaps a salvage car with blown engine may be the best starting point for you if that works in your state.

Others will be better at giving you other info you seek.

ckassen

Really surprised on the lack of responses.

Let me add two simple questions:

What is max HP on 93 Octane with 427ci while maintaining decent torque curve?

Whats the opinion, would I be better off finding a car that is heavily modified in order to save on aftermarket?

AzDave47

With your goal of 800HP N/A, you will need a very special engine build so figure any mods on the car you buy will be sold at 40% of their cost or less. 800 HP will require an intake manifold that will not fit under the stock hood. The differences between the 08 and 09 are small enough for your purposes that you should get the least cost one that has the best condition.

By reposting you may get more responses as sometimes threads get missed and go to another page.

Mrfitter

I think he's going with forced induction not NA. Im sure Unreal will chime in he's got experience with high hp forced induction.

AzDave47

my bad, I didn't read the punctuation right.

outhouse

Unless salvaged it wont be done without luck. As Dave pointed out.


06 with 40,ooo miles books around 35k retail, stock. 08 -09 closer to 40k.

Unreal

Good luck.

For ~800hp I wouldn't mess with LSX block. Added cost, weight, and heat when absolutely not needed. Not even sure why you are considering LSX.

800 crank or 800rwhp? 800rwhp on 93 is a disaster waiting to happen, and would never recommend it.

1500+ and streetable is doable, just not cheap or easy, or on 93 octane.

Whats your experience with a high HP car? 800hp in a z06 is silly fast.

ckassen

1st reason for 800RWHP, a couple of friends of mine have high HP cars (750RWHP E85 Supra, 850RWHP TT Viper).

2nd reason: Now do not mock me, I understand this is apples and oranges, but I personally have a 600HP, 1100ft-lbs 6400lb Cummins 2wd. In the car world, very similar 60-120MPH as a C5Z.

3rd reason: I am an engineer, I enjoy projects, have always wanted a C6Z. A fast C6Z...

Reason for considering LSX: Stock LS7 is poorly designed, not built for FI, and would require running near its design limits at 700HP. Overdesign results in less probability for failure. You can build a LSX for boost, run 800HP, and if at some point want more, change out the FI and move to E85 without worrying about the bottom end.





Your thoughts are 800RWHP or 930HP at the crank is not doable on pump gas even with the right cam, ported heads, ported intake (to maximize flow, minimize manifold pressure, minimize manifold temperature) ?

Unreal

Doable, yes. Safe or smart, not at all.

Still no reason to do a LSX setup. Just do a nice forged setup. Can use a ls7 block, or a sleeved block, or any gen 4 aluminum block sleeved.

Budget? 800rwhp is easy $20k in parts or more if doing it close to correct.

ckassen

I was anticipating an optimistic $20k in parts.

Your opinion would be to take a stock LS7, redo the the heads, crank/rods, install some low compression pistons, port the existing intake, upgrade fuel system, clutch and move on...

At that point wouldn't a few extra grand for the LSX with the six bolt heads/iron frame be worth the upgrade? Or are there disadvantages I am not considering, I know you mentioned heat...

Tech

Crank is already forged and titanium connecting rods should be fine for 800 rwhp.

Unreal

Cost, heat, weight.

Don't touch intake. Pistons, sleeves if you want, new valve guides, then just fuel system/blower. Spend the money on drivetrain/cooling/suspension/etc.

Or buy a done car. Cheapest and best way to do it.

ckassen

The idea sounds simple...

Let's get down to the basic question, what is considered limiting hp on pump gas and roughly 427ci? Houston TX, hot summer...

Looks like calculating dynamic compression ratio is in my near future...

Michael_D

No reason for an iron block, none whatsoever at your power level....

I'd give ERL or R.E.D. a call and see if they have any short blocks that have had the liners replaced collecting dust. Start there.

Problem with building a boosted engine, or sprayed engine, is the tendency to keep adding boost and spray after you get used to what you got.

I would most likely just swap out the whole rotating assembly. The crank and rods are hell for stout, but you are getting into a grey area at 800hp.

If I were in the market for a car, I'd be looking at the newer models. Not sure which year Mag ride was added, but I'd start with that model year. In fact, I'm researching to find out exactly what is involved with adding it to my 08. There are numerous other creature comforts that have been added to the Z's over the years as well. Make sure you find out what they are, and if you might want them or if you just don't care. Some folks do, I do....

Brandon619

^^Good post Micheal D, there is an aluminum LSX block option too. I would agree with Micheal here on the fact if you are going to build a motor with boost or spray I would not use the OEM rotating components. I'm saying or debating the fact of the strength of the OEM rods and crank can handle that kind of power but if your spending money on assembling a new motor I would spend it on quality parts that can handle future power demands.

Unreal

Octane will be limiting factor.

No such thing as an aluminum lsx block.

Stock crank and rods are not even breaking a sweat at 800rwhp. Pistons then liners of block are the two weaker points.

Why not start with an ls3 car? Can build a ls3 800rwhp car easier and better imo.

Brandon619

Unreal, you are correct I was mixed up thinking C5R block.

Knight_z06

I just picked up a 08z 52k miles all stock for 34,500 in great condition. I had found a few others around the same miles and price

ckassen

Ok, so sleeves, head work, fuel system...

What would be your opinion of attainable HP on pump gas?