[Z06] My Pick for Best Oil: Mobil1 0w40
07-25-2016, 06:33 PM
#21
Race Director
07-25-2016, 06:46 PM
#23
Team Owner
Actually lawn mower is in the shed. Haven't used it in years. Labor here is too cheap not to pay someone to take care of the yard.
07-26-2016, 10:50 AM
#24
Le Mans Master
https://540ratblog.wordpress.com/201...-test-ranking/
Long read, but it may be worth the read for some of you all.
And of course, the ubiquitous http://bobistheoilguy.com/motor-oil-101/ site for everyone's reading pleasure. Notice that Bob hypes (advertises on his site) the Penzoil Ultra stuff? Probably just coincidence that the NO 1 oil results against wear were the Penzoil with an additive. The Mobil 1 has some good results as well...but I'm only summarizing thorough test results of 189 oils and oil combinations tested.
Not trying to argue against anyone's choice of motor oil.
Long read, but it may be worth the read for some of you all.
And of course, the ubiquitous http://bobistheoilguy.com/motor-oil-101/ site for everyone's reading pleasure. Notice that Bob hypes (advertises on his site) the Penzoil Ultra stuff? Probably just coincidence that the NO 1 oil results against wear were the Penzoil with an additive. The Mobil 1 has some good results as well...but I'm only summarizing thorough test results of 189 oils and oil combinations tested.
Not trying to argue against anyone's choice of motor oil.
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catbert (10-17-2017)
07-26-2016, 12:16 PM
#27
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You may want to think about running M1 15W50 when you are tracking the car. On the C7 it looks like GM is applying a lesson learned from the C5 and C6 engines that have been tracked. In the Owner's Manual they recommend using M1 15W50 for any track duty. They also say to change back to 5W30 when going back to the street.
Tadge answered a question (https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...-road-use.html) about why they recommend changing back to the lighter weight oil and he explained it nicely. The 15W50 increases fuel consumption by a small amount and it reduces the lifetime of catalytic converters which would increase GM's warranty replacement costs since they have an 80K 8 year emissions warranty on them.
So if you aren't concerned so much about fuel mileage and aren't concerned as much about your cats lasting 8 years or 80K miles then you can run M1 15W50 on the street and track when the ambient temps permit.
C7 track hounds are doing this since even when doing the oil change yourself you are looking at a cost between $65 and $110 per change depending on where you buy the oil. For $65 buying two 5 quart and one 1 one quart containers at Walmart gets you enough oil to fill the dry sump and add the extra half quart above the full mark that GM recommends with about 3/4 of a quart left over to top off the oil while at the track. So far I haven't been using any oil on track days so haven't needed to top off.
Bill
Tadge answered a question (https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...-road-use.html) about why they recommend changing back to the lighter weight oil and he explained it nicely. The 15W50 increases fuel consumption by a small amount and it reduces the lifetime of catalytic converters which would increase GM's warranty replacement costs since they have an 80K 8 year emissions warranty on them.
So if you aren't concerned so much about fuel mileage and aren't concerned as much about your cats lasting 8 years or 80K miles then you can run M1 15W50 on the street and track when the ambient temps permit.
C7 track hounds are doing this since even when doing the oil change yourself you are looking at a cost between $65 and $110 per change depending on where you buy the oil. For $65 buying two 5 quart and one 1 one quart containers at Walmart gets you enough oil to fill the dry sump and add the extra half quart above the full mark that GM recommends with about 3/4 of a quart left over to top off the oil while at the track. So far I haven't been using any oil on track days so haven't needed to top off.
Bill
07-26-2016, 02:50 PM
#28
Burning Brakes
So....
Everyone has an opinion but for a daily driver (~40-50 miles per day), that sees occasional (~6 drag racing "T&T" nights per year) and the mandatory Mexico runs what will be the best all around oil brand and weight?
I pretty much utilized M1 5w30 for the lifetime of the vehicle with a bottle of " Prolong" and the last two changes I utilized Pennzoil Ultra 5w30 and Royal Purple 5w30.
Comments?
Everyone has an opinion but for a daily driver (~40-50 miles per day), that sees occasional (~6 drag racing "T&T" nights per year) and the mandatory Mexico runs what will be the best all around oil brand and weight?
I pretty much utilized M1 5w30 for the lifetime of the vehicle with a bottle of " Prolong" and the last two changes I utilized Pennzoil Ultra 5w30 and Royal Purple 5w30.
Comments?
07-26-2016, 02:57 PM
#29
Le Mans Master
So....
Everyone has an opinion but for a daily driver (~40-50 miles per day), that sees occasional (~6 drag racing "T&T" nights per year) and the mandatory Mexico runs what will be the best all around oil brand and weight?
I pretty much utilized M1 5w30 for the lifetime of the vehicle with a bottle of " Prolong" and the last two changes I utilized Pennzoil Ultra 5w30 and Royal Purple 5w30.
Comments?
Everyone has an opinion but for a daily driver (~40-50 miles per day), that sees occasional (~6 drag racing "T&T" nights per year) and the mandatory Mexico runs what will be the best all around oil brand and weight?
I pretty much utilized M1 5w30 for the lifetime of the vehicle with a bottle of " Prolong" and the last two changes I utilized Pennzoil Ultra 5w30 and Royal Purple 5w30.
Comments?
07-26-2016, 03:09 PM
#30
Howie - IMHO Hib is probably right. I have had a similar decline in Lead that you have after going from M1 to Red Line. In the end, as long as you use a higher weight for the track, go with any oil you're comfortable with. Most are pretty good.
07-26-2016, 05:13 PM
#32
Safety Car
Member Since: Dec 1999
Location: Virginia Beach, VA & Port Charlotte, FL (snowbird)
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You may want to think about running M1 15W50 when you are tracking the car. On the C7 it looks like GM is applying a lesson learned from the C5 and C6 engines that have been tracked. In the Owner's Manual they recommend using M1 15W50 for any track duty. They also say to change back to 5W30 when going back to the street.
Tadge answered a question (https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...-road-use.html) about why they recommend changing back to the lighter weight oil and he explained it nicely. The 15W50 increases fuel consumption by a small amount and it reduces the lifetime of catalytic converters which would increase GM's warranty replacement costs since they have an 80K 8 year emissions warranty on them.
So if you aren't concerned so much about fuel mileage and aren't concerned as much about your cats lasting 8 years or 80K miles then you can run M1 15W50 on the street and track when the ambient temps permit.
C7 track hounds are doing this since even when doing the oil change yourself you are looking at a cost between $65 and $110 per change depending on where you buy the oil. For $65 buying two 5 quart and one 1 one quart containers at Walmart gets you enough oil to fill the dry sump and add the extra half quart above the full mark that GM recommends with about 3/4 of a quart left over to top off the oil while at the track. So far I haven't been using any oil on track days so haven't needed to top off.
Bill
Tadge answered a question (https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...-road-use.html) about why they recommend changing back to the lighter weight oil and he explained it nicely. The 15W50 increases fuel consumption by a small amount and it reduces the lifetime of catalytic converters which would increase GM's warranty replacement costs since they have an 80K 8 year emissions warranty on them.
So if you aren't concerned so much about fuel mileage and aren't concerned as much about your cats lasting 8 years or 80K miles then you can run M1 15W50 on the street and track when the ambient temps permit.
C7 track hounds are doing this since even when doing the oil change yourself you are looking at a cost between $65 and $110 per change depending on where you buy the oil. For $65 buying two 5 quart and one 1 one quart containers at Walmart gets you enough oil to fill the dry sump and add the extra half quart above the full mark that GM recommends with about 3/4 of a quart left over to top off the oil while at the track. So far I haven't been using any oil on track days so haven't needed to top off.
Bill
I did some oil research before selecting the proper oil brand/weight for the 482" 427 side-oiler in my AC Cobra.
07-26-2016, 06:17 PM
#33
Team Owner
Thread Starter
You are saying you had the same issue and switching to Redline got the same results as I did ?????????? Do you have your Blackstones so we can compare to mine ??????
DH
07-27-2016, 08:23 AM
#34
Le Mans Master
The first link I posted was DATA from 189 different oil/oil combos tested. I did say it was a long read. The results are about half way down the page. Not trying to hijack either. Like anything else, there are independent tests available all over the place, it's up to the individual to reference them and choose accordingly to his or her own needs. I was merely trying to give the community a large chunk of data from which to choose. 
(Only replying because this seemed like a poke at my previous post)
(Only replying because this seemed like a poke at my previous post)
Last edited by Pb82 Ronin; 07-27-2016 at 08:24 AM.
07-27-2016, 09:53 AM
#35
Team Owner
Thread Starter
The first link I posted was DATA from 189 different oil/oil combos tested. I did say it was a long read. The results are about half way down the page. Not trying to hijack either. Like anything else, there are independent tests available all over the place, it's up to the individual to reference them and choose accordingly to his or her own needs. I was merely trying to give the community a large chunk of data from which to choose.
(Only replying because this seemed like a poke at my previous post)
(Only replying because this seemed like a poke at my previous post)
I was asking if you have personal data, especially Blackstone reports to make comparisons to.
As I said in my OP. For ME and THIS motor the data shows Mobil1 0w40 to be the better choice than Redline 5w30.
DH
07-27-2016, 12:49 PM
#36
Le Mans Master
No. Wasn't a poke and don't worry about hijacking with other data
I was asking if you have personal data, especially Blackstone reports to make comparisons to.
As I said in my OP. For ME and THIS motor the data shows Mobil1 0w40 to be the better choice than Redline 5w30.
DH
I was asking if you have personal data, especially Blackstone reports to make comparisons to.
As I said in my OP. For ME and THIS motor the data shows Mobil1 0w40 to be the better choice than Redline 5w30.
DH
Murica!
07-27-2016, 07:38 PM
#37
Le Mans Master
So on BITOG's ranking report, M1 0-w40 and 15-w50, they are way down on his list (99th and 143rd IIRC).
I haven't read all of the vast walls of text Bob's written, and I don't understand his testing methodology or how accurate or relevant it is (I've read his "real world example" stories of running engines with no coolant, etc. - those have little scientific value).
It's also a bit confusing to me how in his testing M1 5-w30 is in the top 5, yet these other M1 weights and formulations rank much, much lower (I do understand modifiers and adders to allow a wider range of viscosity will have some impact).
Anyone that's spent the time to understand his method of analysis, please feel free to share.
I haven't read all of the vast walls of text Bob's written, and I don't understand his testing methodology or how accurate or relevant it is (I've read his "real world example" stories of running engines with no coolant, etc. - those have little scientific value).
It's also a bit confusing to me how in his testing M1 5-w30 is in the top 5, yet these other M1 weights and formulations rank much, much lower (I do understand modifiers and adders to allow a wider range of viscosity will have some impact).
Anyone that's spent the time to understand his method of analysis, please feel free to share.
Last edited by Dan_the_C5_Man; 07-27-2016 at 08:07 PM.
07-27-2016, 08:15 PM
#38
Team Owner
Thread Starter
So on BITOG's ranking report, M1 0-w40 and 15-w50, they are way down on his list (99th and 143rd IIRC).
I haven't read all of the vast walls of text Bob's written, and I don't understand his testing methodology or how accurate or relevant it is (I've read his "real world example" stories of running engines with no coolant, etc. - those have little scientific value).
It's also a bit confusing to me how in his testing M1 5-w30 is in the top 5, yet these other M1 weights and formulations rank much, much lower (I do understand modifiers and adders to allow a wider range of viscosity will have some impact).
Anyone that's spent the time to understand his method of analysis, please feel free to share.
I haven't read all of the vast walls of text Bob's written, and I don't understand his testing methodology or how accurate or relevant it is (I've read his "real world example" stories of running engines with no coolant, etc. - those have little scientific value).
It's also a bit confusing to me how in his testing M1 5-w30 is in the top 5, yet these other M1 weights and formulations rank much, much lower (I do understand modifiers and adders to allow a wider range of viscosity will have some impact).
Anyone that's spent the time to understand his method of analysis, please feel free to share.
If you look through the thread I started on BITOG when I first noted the high lead levels with Redline 5w30 you will see that a couple of pretty knowledgeable guys predicted that the Mobil1 0w40 would solve the problem. This is why I decided to try it and it worked
http://api.viglink.com/api/click?for...%23Post3843373
DH
07-27-2016, 08:32 PM
#39
Le Mans Master
That fine, and I just switched to a 50/50 mix of M1 0-w40 and 15-w50 a few weeks ago, but if you buy into BITOG's testing, they are both inferior choices (98 and 142 better choices, respectively).
This is why I think it is important to understand how he is testing the oils, and if his methodology is relevant.
This is why I think it is important to understand how he is testing the oils, and if his methodology is relevant.
07-27-2016, 09:23 PM
#40
Team Owner
Which a lot of people say his method is not realistic.
There are a ton of good oils. Before swapping to zrod 10-30 for the high zinc, I ran whatever was on sale at walmart. Pennzoil, valvoline, castrol, etc. Now I buy into the high zinc stuff for LS high HP applications. On my mustang I still run whatever is cheap, same with all my other cars.
As long as it has enough zinc, I'm happy. On a stock car, run whatever, but I think the zinc helps with high spring pressure/cams.
There are a ton of good oils. Before swapping to zrod 10-30 for the high zinc, I ran whatever was on sale at walmart. Pennzoil, valvoline, castrol, etc. Now I buy into the high zinc stuff for LS high HP applications. On my mustang I still run whatever is cheap, same with all my other cars.
As long as it has enough zinc, I'm happy. On a stock car, run whatever, but I think the zinc helps with high spring pressure/cams.