olddragger

quick hint---when it is time to replace your heads---make SURE the drivers side exhaust header is already in place! Once the head is reinstalled there is not enough room to put the header in from up top. I was on jack stands so putting the exhaust header back in from the bottom was a PIA.

Unreal

Cut a slot in the PS reservoir bracket so it slides off without removing the bolts. Makes it much easier for the next time.

MTPZ06

I was speaking specifically to these:

I haven't seen anyone incorporate these adjustable pedestal mount T&D's into their build...at least on CF anyways. Michael D did some research on these in another thread a while back and supposedly they have only been around for a couple years, but aren't listed in their catalogue of parts: https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...post1591925170



Kohle, did you ever pick up a set of these T&D's to experiment with? https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...post1591944304

etazbaz

Finally got the alternator bracket off the head. what a PITA. Did it w/o removing the ABS module. Thanks to others for the tip. Going to cut a slot in the PS reservoir bracket.

Question: can I remove the heads w/o removing the headers. Can they be pried away from the block w/o damaging the exhaust system? Don't really want to jack up the car if I don't have to.

P.S. Going to feel like a hero if I manage to put everything back together and she runs the first time out. To be honest, I will never do this again. I would rather pay someone then go through the aggravation.

American Heritage

If by "headers" you mean the factory manifolds then yes you can remove the heads without removing the factory manifolds/exhaust.
There are 3 connections on the factory "headers". 1-connection from manifold to head. 2- connection from manifold to catalytic converter. 3-connection from collector (tube right after catalytic converter) to the factory H pipe. You want to first remove the two bolts (one each side) from connection 3 (see above). unscrew the two nuts at connection 3 but leave the nuts connected to the studs by a few threads. Now unbolt connection 1 (see above) and push them to the side (you DO NOT have to pry them in any way).

Edit: Just looked at your pics. Follow above and your good to go.
Make sure to use an ARP thread chase to chase out the head bolt holes so the new head bolts can be torqued to their correct specs. We keep the ARP chase's in stock if you need one.

http://www.americanheritageperformance.com/

olddragger

after it is all over and done you will be glad you did it yourself---you learn a LOT.
Much good info on the forum about this. I put my car up on stands so I wouldn't have to bend over so much Lol. I also deleted my oil cooler at the same time---I don't road race the car. One of the best things I have ever done to it.
Label your pushrods and lifters so you are sure of replacing them back in the same spot.
Also it is always a good idea to get new lifter trays---they are cheap.
While you are add it--the one thing I didn't do I wish I had is to send your fuel injectors out for cleaning and "balancing"--- then put the richest one in the Number 7 cylinder position.

etazbaz

Thanks for the tip on injectors and lifter trays. I bagged and tagged the rockers, plugs, wire but did not do that with the pushrods. How big a deal is that? Why put the richest one in cylinder 7?

2k Cobra

No Brainer!

MTPZ06

It's been shown to be the leanest based on airflow/intake design. #7 sleeve failure is by far the most prevalent cylinder when knock/detonation occurs (lean condition).

Michael_D

Buy new lifters.

etazbaz

Recap: Just bought this car 2 weeks ago. 2008 Z06 completely stock w/ 36k mostly highway miles. Never tracked. Oil changed every 3000 miles.

The measurements were taken with the heads removed. Three were at service limit and one of them was out of spec. Based on these measurements not sure if I would drop a valve. But I sure will enjoy the car a lot more not worrying about what if.

At first I said I didn't want any more power but getting the heads out was so much work that it may not be a bad idea to get a new cam since most of the work is already done. Not sure how much additional work swapping cams is. I am planning on replacing the lifters and trays as well. Do I need to replace the pushrods or rockers? I saw slight cupping at the pushrod interface on some of the rockers. The valve interface on the rockers had some burnishing but looked pretty good and was smooth to the touch.

What cam would you recommend that would not affect driveability but give the motor more bite? This car is used on the street 98% of the time for my 2 mile commute and I will probably do a few auto-x and HPDE events next year.

Sending the heads off to AH next week.

MTPZ06

Custom spec an endurance lobe cam from EPS or Cam Motion...my vote anyways. Kohle at AHP can certainly help you spec a cam to meet your needs. This way, you have a valve train set up with parts that should all work in unison...right springs for cam, etc.

Dan_the_C5_Man

Well, the reality is a head swap and a cam swap are two different sets of tasks, not a lot of overlap between the two, other than pulling the rockers and re-filling the radiator.

If you decide to wait on the cam swap, you aren't losing much in invested labor.

etazbaz

perfect, succinct answer! Thanks.

American Heritage

We did not. I had it on the list but we have not gotten to them yet.
Was it you that purchased a set of these? What are your impressions? quality/construction, ect....?
Correction now that I think about it maybe it was Tony that purchased a set of those. I will see if I can get in touch with him and get his feedback on those rockers.

MTPZ06

No, we sent my stockers out to CHE...these weren't on my radar when I dropped my car off with you.

C5 Hardtop

After its all said and done, you'll have a better relationship with your motor for doing all that work yourself

MTPZ06

Kudos to you OP for being this deep into the motor, and conducting what appears to be an accurate wiggle test after only owning the car for a couple weeks.

AzDave47

OP, based on the measurements, these are the best in spec valve measurements I've seen. It would be good to measure the valve guides directly to see how the measurements compare since you have the heads off.

etazbaz

Do you mean using a bore gauge?