[Z06] Any C6Z owners with LSX454 crate engine?
09-06-2016, 11:10 PM
#1
Instructor
Thread Starter
Any C6Z owners with LSX454 crate engine?
I bought a used C6Z that had one of these engines swapped in and I had a few questions / was looking for some feedback from someone who has this swap done also so I can get a few things straightened out. I would really appreciate if you have this engine, or know a lot about it, to post up so I can either PM you or it can be posted in this thread to maybe help other members also. The installation instructions on GMs website where it lists the crate engine appear to be for the 454R and not the basic 454 which for the most part doesn't matter but I want to cover all bases.
#1 What oil should be ran? I just did an oil change and I have a lot of valvetrain noise / ticking which came and went previously also but it seems to be worse / all the time now ... maybe I need a thicker oil since it's pretty hot out right now?
#2 Are the valve springs the same as aftermarket ls7 springs would be taking max lift into consideration of course? Shortly after I bought the car it broke a valve spring ... the shop that did all the work / sold me the car failed to mention the crate engine had ever been messed with, but they stated all they did was "upgrade" the valve springs after I contacted them when one broke. I just want to be sure I'm 100% good to go now.
#3 How hot should this car run on hot summer days ( 100 degrees + ) with both AC on and AC off before it's too hot / unsafe? With AC on if I'm sitting in traffic it will slowly creep up to around 235-240. I get worried when I see that and turn off the AC. Once that's turned off it drops to 215-220 fairly quickly.
I also have a few other misc. questions but these are my main concerns. Thank you!!!
#1 What oil should be ran? I just did an oil change and I have a lot of valvetrain noise / ticking which came and went previously also but it seems to be worse / all the time now ... maybe I need a thicker oil since it's pretty hot out right now?
#2 Are the valve springs the same as aftermarket ls7 springs would be taking max lift into consideration of course? Shortly after I bought the car it broke a valve spring ... the shop that did all the work / sold me the car failed to mention the crate engine had ever been messed with, but they stated all they did was "upgrade" the valve springs after I contacted them when one broke. I just want to be sure I'm 100% good to go now.
#3 How hot should this car run on hot summer days ( 100 degrees + ) with both AC on and AC off before it's too hot / unsafe? With AC on if I'm sitting in traffic it will slowly creep up to around 235-240. I get worried when I see that and turn off the AC. Once that's turned off it drops to 215-220 fairly quickly.
I also have a few other misc. questions but these are my main concerns. Thank you!!!
09-07-2016, 10:44 AM
#2
Melting Slicks
What oil weight are you running, and what is your oil pressure at cold start idle and hot idle?
Springs.... not sure. Sorry
Thats warmer than what I would want to see. Are you tracking the car or is this just a driver? A bigger radiator can help, as will an electric waterpump. However the electric waterpumps dont do well on cars that see prolonged high RPM/track use.
Springs.... not sure. Sorry
Thats warmer than what I would want to see. Are you tracking the car or is this just a driver? A bigger radiator can help, as will an electric waterpump. However the electric waterpumps dont do well on cars that see prolonged high RPM/track use.
09-07-2016, 11:19 AM
#3
Instructor
Thread Starter
I just put in 5w30 and thats when I first noticed the noise. I haven't really driven it much because it sounds "not right" but the shop I got the car from told me they ran 5w50 in it before due to high temperatures outside ( car is from Florida ). I guess I can try switching back to that to see if it goes away but it seems pretty thick or what do you think?
The car is just a driver / weekend car, it only gets hot when literally sitting still in traffic with AC on but still worries me. I read about changing the fan settings but that seems to be a bad idea for the most part .... upgraded radiator with upgraded fan must be the way to go I'm assuming. Thank for the response.
The car is just a driver / weekend car, it only gets hot when literally sitting still in traffic with AC on but still worries me. I read about changing the fan settings but that seems to be a bad idea for the most part .... upgraded radiator with upgraded fan must be the way to go I'm assuming. Thank for the response.
09-07-2016, 11:57 AM
#4
I can't talk about the first two issues, but I'll touch on the overheating issue. I do feel that is a bit warmer than it should, and I also feel that the stock cooling system should be more than sufficient to keep temps on the engine pretty reasonable. (Unless this thing has a ProCharger or Turbo(s) under the hood generating some good heat)
So let's check and make sure your cooling system is performing properly.
Check and make sure there is no trash/debris inbetween the radiator or condenser and also inbetween the cooling fins. The shroud is in good condition as well. There is nothing protruding the flow of air from the front of the car through the radiator. This seems obvious but I've seen this cause issues...especially if it goes away/reduces when the AC is turned off because that means the heat from the condenser is likely contributing to the problem.
Check and make sure the fan turns on when it should.
Then check to make sure that the system has NO bubbles in it. If the car was worked on recently (especially for that valve issue) it is possible that the tech didn't properly purge the cooling system (common thing people forget or don't do correct).
You can pull the front belt off and check the water pulley. You'll likely be able to tell if it has excessive play or doesn't spin properly. Usually a noise would be associated as well, so I doubt it....but it takes just a few minutes to check.
Lastly I would check to see if the thermostat is working properly or just replace it. They're cheap. Only down side to this is you will lose some coolant when you do this, which is why I listed this last.
If that all checks out, then I would suggest it's time to look at upgrading the cooling system (unless the oil weight is causing the issue, but that would be up to the engine builder).
You could also run a little bit of water wetter in your coolant to help with temps.
So let's check and make sure your cooling system is performing properly.
Check and make sure there is no trash/debris inbetween the radiator or condenser and also inbetween the cooling fins. The shroud is in good condition as well. There is nothing protruding the flow of air from the front of the car through the radiator. This seems obvious but I've seen this cause issues...especially if it goes away/reduces when the AC is turned off because that means the heat from the condenser is likely contributing to the problem.
Check and make sure the fan turns on when it should.
Then check to make sure that the system has NO bubbles in it. If the car was worked on recently (especially for that valve issue) it is possible that the tech didn't properly purge the cooling system (common thing people forget or don't do correct).
You can pull the front belt off and check the water pulley. You'll likely be able to tell if it has excessive play or doesn't spin properly. Usually a noise would be associated as well, so I doubt it....but it takes just a few minutes to check.
Lastly I would check to see if the thermostat is working properly or just replace it. They're cheap. Only down side to this is you will lose some coolant when you do this, which is why I listed this last.
If that all checks out, then I would suggest it's time to look at upgrading the cooling system (unless the oil weight is causing the issue, but that would be up to the engine builder).
You could also run a little bit of water wetter in your coolant to help with temps.
09-07-2016, 12:32 PM
#6
It seems suspect to me to hear an engine noise problem after changing the oil.
Looking at that beast of an engine at the gm website, that thing is bad to the bone!
Lots of power!!
More power, more heat to dissipate. I don't see how stock cooling would suffice with 200+ more HP/TQ.
Back in my teens I drove cars for stealers at the private auto auctions back east for $60
. I heard stories about how 'things' were done to the car in preparation to be sold. They would doctor the car so it would run just enough to get the car sold. Things like oil additives were used.
Looking at that beast of an engine at the gm website, that thing is bad to the bone!
Lots of power!! More power, more heat to dissipate. I don't see how stock cooling would suffice with 200+ more HP/TQ.
Back in my teens I drove cars for stealers at the private auto auctions back east for $60
. I heard stories about how 'things' were done to the car in preparation to be sold. They would doctor the car so it would run just enough to get the car sold. Things like oil additives were used.
09-07-2016, 12:44 PM
#7
Instructor
Thread Starter
I can't talk about the first two issues, but I'll touch on the overheating issue. I do feel that is a bit warmer than it should, and I also feel that the stock cooling system should be more than sufficient to keep temps on the engine pretty reasonable. (Unless this thing has a ProCharger or Turbo(s) under the hood generating some good heat)
So let's check and make sure your cooling system is performing properly.
Check and make sure there is no trash/debris inbetween the radiator or condenser and also inbetween the cooling fins. The shroud is in good condition as well. There is nothing protruding the flow of air from the front of the car through the radiator. This seems obvious but I've seen this cause issues...especially if it goes away/reduces when the AC is turned off because that means the heat from the condenser is likely contributing to the problem.
Check and make sure the fan turns on when it should.
Then check to make sure that the system has NO bubbles in it. If the car was worked on recently (especially for that valve issue) it is possible that the tech didn't properly purge the cooling system (common thing people forget or don't do correct).
You can pull the front belt off and check the water pulley. You'll likely be able to tell if it has excessive play or doesn't spin properly. Usually a noise would be associated as well, so I doubt it....but it takes just a few minutes to check.
Lastly I would check to see if the thermostat is working properly or just replace it. They're cheap. Only down side to this is you will lose some coolant when you do this, which is why I listed this last.
If that all checks out, then I would suggest it's time to look at upgrading the cooling system (unless the oil weight is causing the issue, but that would be up to the engine builder).
You could also run a little bit of water wetter in your coolant to help with temps.
So let's check and make sure your cooling system is performing properly.
Check and make sure there is no trash/debris inbetween the radiator or condenser and also inbetween the cooling fins. The shroud is in good condition as well. There is nothing protruding the flow of air from the front of the car through the radiator. This seems obvious but I've seen this cause issues...especially if it goes away/reduces when the AC is turned off because that means the heat from the condenser is likely contributing to the problem.
Check and make sure the fan turns on when it should.
Then check to make sure that the system has NO bubbles in it. If the car was worked on recently (especially for that valve issue) it is possible that the tech didn't properly purge the cooling system (common thing people forget or don't do correct).
You can pull the front belt off and check the water pulley. You'll likely be able to tell if it has excessive play or doesn't spin properly. Usually a noise would be associated as well, so I doubt it....but it takes just a few minutes to check.
Lastly I would check to see if the thermostat is working properly or just replace it. They're cheap. Only down side to this is you will lose some coolant when you do this, which is why I listed this last.
If that all checks out, then I would suggest it's time to look at upgrading the cooling system (unless the oil weight is causing the issue, but that would be up to the engine builder).
You could also run a little bit of water wetter in your coolant to help with temps.
I tried water wetter which barely made a difference and I should have mentioned I did clean the radiator and condensor fins. I'll take a look at the water pump and rebleed cooling system but it looks like radiator and fan upgrade is needed
09-07-2016, 12:46 PM
#8
Instructor
Thread Starter
It seems suspect to me to hear an engine noise problem after changing the oil.
Looking at that beast of an engine at the gm website, that thing is bad to the bone! Lots of power!!
More power, more heat to dissipate. I don't see how stock cooling would suffice with 200+ more HP/TQ.
Back in my teens I drove cars for stealers at the private auto auctions back east for $60. I heard stories about how 'things' were done to the car in preparation to be sold. They would doctor the car so it would run just enough to get the car sold. Things like oil additives were used.
Looking at that beast of an engine at the gm website, that thing is bad to the bone!
Lots of power!! More power, more heat to dissipate. I don't see how stock cooling would suffice with 200+ more HP/TQ.
Back in my teens I drove cars for stealers at the private auto auctions back east for $60
. I heard stories about how 'things' were done to the car in preparation to be sold. They would doctor the car so it would run just enough to get the car sold. Things like oil additives were used.
09-07-2016, 12:50 PM
#10
Team Owner
Not even remotely a fan of that setup. I would be looking to get rid of it asap.
09-07-2016, 12:52 PM
#11
I'd address the cooling system issue with a lower priority. Take the car back to the steeler and see if they will fix the engine noise or help you in some way if they are not liable.
09-07-2016, 01:09 PM
#12
Instructor
Thread Starter
Well I've put around 2500 miles on it since I bought it so I doubt they are liable for anything, I just want to fix it.
09-07-2016, 01:44 PM
#14
Team Owner
Huge down grade over a stock ls7. It's a motor for old people to swap into their old camaros who are nostalgic about the numbers 454.
09-07-2016, 03:13 PM
#15
Burning Brakes
Been following the guy on Instagram for a few years, his username is dfresh454. I know he had sold it, hpsales in Florida did all the work. He bought the car in summer of 2014 and the ls7 blew in September of 2014 and replaced with the lsx 454. Hope that's some help.
-jp
-jp
The following users liked this post:
1fast97gsx (09-07-2016)
09-07-2016, 03:23 PM
#16
Instructor
Thread Starter
Been following the guy on Instagram for a few years, his username is dfresh454. I know he had sold it, hpsales in Florida did all the work. He bought the car in summer of 2014 and the ls7 blew in September of 2014 and replaced with the lsx 454. Hope that's some help.
-jp
-jp
. Dfresh454 is his username on here? I want to try to get a hold of him. Thanks for the heads up, I really appreciate it.
09-07-2016, 06:30 PM
#18
09-07-2016, 07:08 PM
#19
Instructor
Thread Starter
I'm curious about the engine you have. Do you have pics? Is this link the same engine?
Sure I could take some pics.
09-08-2016, 09:26 AM
#20
I bought a used C6Z that had one of these engines swapped in and I had a few questions / was looking for some feedback from someone who has this swap done also so I can get a few things straightened out. I would really appreciate if you have this engine, or know a lot about it, to post up so I can either PM you or it can be posted in this thread to maybe help other members also. The installation instructions on GMs website where it lists the crate engine appear to be for the 454R and not the basic 454 which for the most part doesn't matter but I want to cover all bases.
#1 What oil should be ran? I just did an oil change and I have a lot of valvetrain noise / ticking which came and went previously also but it seems to be worse / all the time now ... maybe I need a thicker oil since it's pretty hot out right now?
#2 Are the valve springs the same as aftermarket ls7 springs would be taking max lift into consideration of course? Shortly after I bought the car it broke a valve spring ... the shop that did all the work / sold me the car failed to mention the crate engine had ever been messed with, but they stated all they did was "upgrade" the valve springs after I contacted them when one broke. I just want to be sure I'm 100% good to go now.
#3 How hot should this car run on hot summer days ( 100 degrees + ) with both AC on and AC off before it's too hot / unsafe? With AC on if I'm sitting in traffic it will slowly creep up to around 235-240. I get worried when I see that and turn off the AC. Once that's turned off it drops to 215-220 fairly quickly.
I also have a few other misc. questions but these are my main concerns. Thank you!!!
#1 What oil should be ran? I just did an oil change and I have a lot of valvetrain noise / ticking which came and went previously also but it seems to be worse / all the time now ... maybe I need a thicker oil since it's pretty hot out right now?
#2 Are the valve springs the same as aftermarket ls7 springs would be taking max lift into consideration of course? Shortly after I bought the car it broke a valve spring ... the shop that did all the work / sold me the car failed to mention the crate engine had ever been messed with, but they stated all they did was "upgrade" the valve springs after I contacted them when one broke. I just want to be sure I'm 100% good to go now.
#3 How hot should this car run on hot summer days ( 100 degrees + ) with both AC on and AC off before it's too hot / unsafe? With AC on if I'm sitting in traffic it will slowly creep up to around 235-240. I get worried when I see that and turn off the AC. Once that's turned off it drops to 215-220 fairly quickly.
I also have a few other misc. questions but these are my main concerns. Thank you!!!
I do not like this engine _for this car_ for many reasons. It has no business in a street car that is expected to be dependable.