rio95

Hell yeah I check pushrod length. That varies way more from car to car and needs to be within a pretty tight range rather than just simply clearing.

If a cam specially designed for a stock bottom LS7 doesn't clear stock pistons, that cam designer did a bad job designing that off the shelf cam. I don't think someone would ever push the limits that far on a general purpose off the shelf cam.

Tech

Or the cam was not manufactured to that specification. It happens. It's an expensive lesson to learn the hard way.

csibbs

Change of plans. Got antsy. Total time 3 days. 37 hours labor time. Steering rack was a bitch to get in. Here's a video just now of the initial startup though.

Edit: I cant figure out how to embed....

https://youtu.be/0OR-ZTS2Aic

Brandon619

To embed there is a little chain link icon when you type your thread/post. Hit that link button copy your YouTube link, there you have it an embedded link.

outhouse

Sounds nice! nothing abnormal, way to go!

outhouse

Mine has the two alloy C clips, put mine in night before last, it was a bit of a pain lol


I turned mine toward the passenger side and pulled the rack into it and them when In place tapped the c clips straight and used the woof end of a mallet to tap it in.


I'm still waiting on heads, hope to hear that sound next week.

csibbs

Thank you, now I know for future posts!

I was able to get the drivers side in no problem, I slid the bolt in and then focused on the passenger side. A little force was needed to persuade it.


I'm looking for a tuner in NJ for a street tune for this car. With the ZR1 Lip and side skirts the car will not make it onto a dyno unless it's in ground.

Tech

Looks like you have a few extra parts there. Might want to have that looked at.

j/j.. Sounds good!

csibbs

Surprisingly, I didn't even have one leftover bolt!
All that other stuff is for a car my buddy is working on. He pushed it out of the garage and let me borrow his space for a couple days while his motor is at the machine shop

Tech

I was referring to the spark plug wires on your cowl. It was a joke though..

csibbs

Damn I was oblivious.

So I was going to get tuned today but ran into a massive coolant leak in the rear of the block.
I think it is the coolant crossover in the rear as i never plugged it.

Has anyone dealt with prc heads and did you install a plug in the rear?
I'm thinking about just installing another crossover on the rear of the block.

But man this can sounds mean I'll upload a video with the longtubes... Of course I still took a video even though it was leaking coolant!

csibbs

Coolant crossover was never plugged in the rear. Something I will never ever overlook again!

On my way to get tuned. Will post up with numbers later today.

Can someone who runs 40 weight oil chime in on this.... My oil pressure seems pretty high. 2k rpm and the car is at 65psi but I gave it a Rev almost to redline and it was about 85-90. I understand thicker oil more pressure but before at idle running 30w it was about 35 and now it is idles at 50psi.

MUKAK

sounds like u revving it to redline when the engine is still cold? like morning start cold for psi to be that high?

i run 0-40 m1 and my psi is at 50-55 while normal driving and 30-35 idling

outhouse

Mine idles cold around 60 ish with 3-30w

csibbs

Nope that was fullly warned up after driving about an hour. I would never Rev a cold motor!
I think it's just my heavier weight oil. Nothing blew up on the dyno today so that's good

Tech

It's not a problem to cap them if you remove the intake manifold. There are block off plugs used by LS6 and later LS1s that will bolt right in. Or, you can rivet them with a specialized GM rivet.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/n...Q08aAm-Z8P8HAQ

csibbs

Hey man, I actually was able to find the plugs at a local GM dealership. Popped the intake manifold off and installed them. Then checked for leaks. So far so good. I actually got tuned yesterday. Made 588/513 on a dynojet.

I seem to be having clutch issues now though, and am trying to diagnose if it is the master or not.

The clutch will hold power up until redline, but as soon as I shift into the next gear, and get back on the throttle, it slips, bad.

I have changed the fluid every day for the past 3 days in an attempt to dilute the old fluid out. Usually after one day of driving its dark brown again.
​​​​
Could this also be related to the long tubes creating excessive heat by the master cylinder line that runs to the slave cylinder? Should I try running dot 5.1 that has a higher boiling point but is still compatible with dot 3/4?

Tech

I swapped to Wilwood's high temp stuff. It helped with a grinding issue I was having shifting into 2nd at WOT. It won't, however, prevent your fluid from turning dark. One theory on that is clutch dust making it past the seals on the slave cylinder.

csibbs

That was also my theory too after reading rangers clutch care information.

I'm currently refilling the master cylinder over and over again to dilute the old fluid out. I just refilled new clear fluid in, and pumped 30 times and the fluid came out black with lots of particles

csibbs

​​​​​​

After doing 30 sets of the ranger clutch care method, my fluid finally appears to be staying clear. I will know for sure once I take a spirited drive today.