Nowanker

Pokin' around the web... seems like there's an assortment of smaller recovery machines available now, maybe around the $500 mark. Don't know their capabilities, but that's WAY cheaper than the last ones I looked at.
Only replacement compressor I saw was ~$350, + vacuum pump, +gauges, hoses,etc.etc.

jft69z

Look around for the small recovery machines. They're in the 350-500 dollar range. Tooltopia has good prices for a lot of the stuff, compare with Amazon too I guess.

A scale that I listed earlier.

Gage set.

Recovery tank

Vacuum pump

Small Sporlan filter maybe for added protection & cleaning when evacuating.

You'll probably need a couple of extra hoses to hook everything up too.

Clean, virgin R134A. Don't get any of the crap with sealant in it.

Edit: Maybe a bottle blanket (heater) too if you want to start getting fancy and speed the charge up a little when it's cold out or the bottle is getting low.

Either way, you'll have a sizable investment in the tools necessary to do the job. If you're patient, you can sometimes find a deal on ebay for maybe the recovery tank, filter, hoses etc. I managed to score a new, extra recovery tank a couple of years ago for a good price.

stefuel

I was wrong about one thing and misunderstood about the same thing.
When I said the smallest tank was 10 lbs I was talking about the smallest bulk 134A tank. That is actually 15 lbs. I have on out in my garage for my own use that I bought 6-7 years ago. I do think the smallest recovery tank is 30 lbs. All that said, there must be a HVAC guy near you that can reclaim it for you way cheaper then you can cobble it together yourself. Also, there is a difference between a reclaiming machine and a recycling machine with the latter being more expensive.
You don't drive 300 miles to go food shopping do you? Ask the manager of that store who services their refrigeration equipment.
Don't make me road trip from Cape Cod to reclaim a pound

User Omega

Alright tree hugger. I didn't know you lived in Alaska, thus the reasoning for being willing to do it for you. "Not having access to" is far from telling everyone you are 300 miles away from civilization.

134a will not harm the environment but if you insist.. Is it a felony to release it intentionally? Absolutely! On a paper it has no ozone depleting characteristics. Nor can it harm birds/animals/fish and so on.

Here is the most basic list to perform this per EPA regulations since all of the sudden Corvette owners in this thread want to start following all the laws.

First and foremost, you will need to take and pass the section 609 certification test. HINT They can be found online. It's the same penalty as dumping and servicing a unit unlicensed (very gray but clear on reclaiming gas). Might even be worse in Alaska.

You will need have these items flown in.

1 recovery cylinder properly marked - Its a pain but they can be ordered new and then resold after you turn it in for recycle.

1 Vacuum pump - doesn't have to be huge so cost can be kept 2cfm would be fine. Make sure it comes with oil or you get some.

1 Recovery machine - They make cheap Chinese portables but what they will ship to you idk. Any will work. You aren't working on a 30 ton system here.

The refrigerant. No matter how you go at it some will be lost. You might as well just get new.

I would have a few small cans flown in they come in several different sizes but 2 12oz cans would be plenty and much cheaper than a large jug. I'll get to how to use these when they don't hook up to a manifold set in a minute. With these you won't need a scale to weigh the refrigerant in so there is another bit of saving. Don't forget the can top for adding.

1 manifold gauge set - does not have to be 134a specific with ACT fittings. If you find a really cheap set just buy it and get the 134a adapter couplings ~$10 Preferably get ones without valves on them. It really is best to order the standard manifolds anyhow because 99% of vacuum pumps and recovery cylinders are going to be 1/4" anyhow.

1 1/4" manifold T with shutoff.

1 Extra 1/4" refrigerant hose.

1 Micron Gauge



Recovery cylinder/machine preparation.

1: Install charging hose (yellow) from the manifold to the recovery machine "inlet".

2: Run the extra hose you have from the recovery machine "outlet" to the recovery cylinder blue valve.

3: Place one hose from the manifold to the vacuum pump. (whichever side you added the Tee for the micron gauge). Preferably the blue side or low side.

4: Place Micron gauge on manifold Tee and open valve

5: Open valve from manifold to vacuum pump and ensure the other is closed.

6: Open valves on recovery machine.

7: Open the vacuum pump valve and turn pump and micron gauge on.

8: When microns reach 500 shut off the Tee valve to the micron gauge and close the low side port on the manifold.

9: Shut off vacuum pump.

10: Close the inlet valve of the recovery machine.

11: Remove the line from the vacuum pump.

Your recovery equipment is now evacuated and ready to receive the refrigerant.



To recover (continued from above):

1: Install 134a couplings onto the manifold high and low side hoses.

2: Install the couplings to the ports on the car.

3: Open the hand valves on the manifold (DO NOT open the Tee to the micron gauge. It could damage the gauge).

4: Crack the hose at the recovery machine to purge air from the hoses. This wont take long at all. Ensure you tighten it back up.

5: Open the inlet side of the machine and turn the machine to on.

6: When the machine reaches 0 psig on the low side (blue) or slightly less, shut the machine off.

7: This is where things can vary. Machines vary so you will have to look in the manual as to how to purge the machine. Its very easy.

8: Shut off the bottle blue valve we opened earlier and you can now remove the hose from the bottle and machine.


You are now done with the recovery and have legally captured the refrigerant. The manifold gauge set can be removed and work can be performed. You can call the EPA for a proper disposal facility. This small of a charge again will be very very difficult to reintroduce full back to a system. Your car will never be able to suck all of the refrigerant back in on its own and using the recovery machine would be ill advised. Its just a waste when 134a is sooooo cheap. Oh, and you save at least $100 for the scale.


When you are ready for reinstall continue below.



Charging (budget way)

1: Install manifold gauge set onto car with manifold hand valves open. Also open the Tee to the micron gauge.

2: Hook up the yellow charging hose to the vacuum pump and turn it on.

3: Vacuum the system to at least 1000 microns

4: Shut off valve at vacuum pump.

5: Allow system to sit and see if microns increase steadily. (If no rise in microns the system is leak free. Move to step 6.

If system rises a bit in pressure but stops you may have to continue the vacuum process. If it continues to rise to nearly 0 psig you likely have a leak. You would need to pressurize the system and spray with soapy water to find the leak. I hope for you that doesn't happen.

6: With the system in a good vacuum you can shut off the hand valves and remove the gauge set.

7: Take your new refrigerant cans and add the suggested amount of refrigerant to the system. It doesn't have to be perfect to operate properly. May systems aren't charged properly right from the factory so no worries if you are off by an oz or 2.


You are now done. Sell the equipment locally or hang on to it for future use.


If anyone sees any mistakes or additions that need to be made please feel free to chime in. I'm far from perfect and have only proof read this novel once.

stefuel

The only thing I would do different is leave the gauges on and charge from a bulk container. I'd be worried about getting air in the system while making and breaking connections while under a vacuum but that's just me.

User Omega

I fully agree but with him on a budget this was the best I could come up with.

Michael_D

Informative post. Thanks for taking the time to outline the procedure.

I'm not a tree huger/bunny lover that likes to attack oil tankers from a rubber dingy. I would quite literally by fired from my job if I ever did anything even remotely close to willful violation of any EPA reg or law. All employees sign a "code of conduct" and are held accountable to it, even while not at work. More so with management, which I am one. I'm not going to go into any more details on a public forum.

When I said unavailable, I thought that was understood. What else could it possibly mean? I don't mince words. There is one local grocery store. The have a contract with an HVAC contractor - who is located 300 miles away. There is one professional mechanic in town. He does not have a recovery unit.

jft69z

So if you get the equipment, it may be an opportunity to perhaps help other people in the area. Maybe they would also be offering you cash donations for your 'help'...... That would offset the cost of the equipment in the long run and allow you to get the proper stuff.

Hopefully that wouldn't violate your code of conduct clause.

User Omega

I was not being serious when I called you a tree hugger. It was a joke.

I misunderstood the unavailable part. My mistake. I couldn't read your mind and the last thought was that you would be in Alaska. It never even crossed my mind and I apologize for the misunderstanding. I also couldn't have known your company situation. I wouldn't take the risk either if its that bad. I would never suggest dumping a refrigerant that was damaging to the environment. Ive recovered I don't know how many thousands of lbs over the years. Yes, even 134a in my workplace at the time. It is beyond me why its even illegal to dump the 134a unless they are afraid of the oils getting into water ways or something. The stuff is literally as harmless as helium.


I hope the procedures outlined help you get the work done as safely as possible. Good luck to you.

Nowanker

And since we all know that internet information is completely infallible...
Just for a laugh, google "134 refrigerant environmental damage".
...not sayin'...

User Omega

So you are saying that localized greenhouse gasses are are a problem in ALASKA???? I need some of the script this guy is on....


It is a well known FACT that 134a or any Hydroflourocarbon can affect local for a short term but does not have the same ozone depleting effect as a CFC (Chlorofluorocarbon)..


I challenge you genius, all knower of facts sir ******... Prove to everyone here that burning 1 gallon of gasoline through a C6 car's cats emits less ozone depleting properties locally than venting one pound of 134a..

Good luck chief. I have been in these classes that prove that humans in a whole have almost no effect on the ozone period (<.01%/E5 yr)..


Do you even know how many lbs2 CFC mount St Helens released into the environment with just one small eruption?

I'll fill you in. THE EQUIVALENT OF THE LAST 100 YEARS OF HUMAN PRODUCTION OF CFCs RELEASED ALL AT ONCE..

Please turn off your television and do some research.. There are those of us who study this and have accurate mathematical data to support the truth.. The fear mongering over the years from the left is sickening. Global warming is real.... A real cycle of our planet we cannot control.

You disagree? Well those of us who have educated ourselves in the matter know a little thing called science... Science tells us that the earth has a natural cycle it follows and we are actually nearing the end of the warming cycle. Some even say we are on the brink of a cooling cycle. This even includes NASA.......

I myself have been taught that global warming is a sham...... Climate change is the proper term and it is real. Damn those dino deaths. I bet their rotting bodies emitting all that ozone crap is what made it warm again.... See how dumb that sounds??

User Omega

I'll also add that the earth naturally in the last 285k years has stuck to a 20k (normal cycle) year variance of 3.7 average degree change overall. I'd like to include that they determine this through soil and dug up soil/plant samples.... NASA has recorded a +1.4 degree change since 1980 for example.....


WORLD IS ON FIRE PEOPLE!!!


Visit here to read about NASA localized greenhouse effect..

Alaska isn't even on the map.

http://climate.nasa.gov/causes/

stefuel

All well and good but at the end of the day, the law is the law. For most of us who make a living with the stuff, all we need to know is we are compliant

Back in the 70's I was a auto mechanic. Back then R-12 was the thing. Residential had switched to R-22 but you could still find a R-12 system in a house. When my boss got sick, we were forced to close the garage. I stuck around after closing to help clean up and move all his stuff to his garage at home. He ran out of space and one of the last things to move was a whole pallet of 30 pound jugs of R-12. He had no room for it and told me I could have it. At the time they cost $28.00 each in bulk. They sat in my garage (forgotten about) for close to 10 years. Eventually someone asked me if I had any. I said Yup, got this much. Make me a offer. Came back with $300.00. I said a whole pallet is worth way more then that and he said no no, $300.00 a jug. Point is, a big Co. like DuPont does not lose money when they phase out product. As the supply goes down, the price goes up. Look at the price of R-22 today.

MTPZ06

Interesting thread.

User Omega

I can agree with this.

I just didn't want anyone thinking that my initial post was in any way going to damage the environment. I recycle and even legally dispose of my used oils and batteries.


Since it seems that many here are concerned with the post in question I removed it from the thread.