Pelan

I like staying up to date on your build you keep it very well documented. Also, with us both having almost the same exact build it makes it more intresting. I can't wait to see what your results are. I'm going to guess you put down 675 rwhp. I'm still doing some fine tuning on mine and plan to have it exactly the way I want it next fall. Tonys package definitely surpassed my expectations and the wait was worth it I'm sure you will be very happy too.

Josh B.

Thanks man

675rwhp would be a dream come true. On the high end, that is what my little heart wants, but my heart has been broken too many times on the dyno!! I'll hope for your prediction to come true but still prepare myself for 630rwhp ("but nice torque curve")

Once I get the heads back from Tony the parts are going to fly onto the car, then trailer it up to Vengeance Racing for a dyno tune. Then immediately back to my local dyno (Huck's Automotive in Foley, AL) where I have a solid baseline on their DJ 224X with dozens of pulls.

MTPZ06

Agree with Pelan...thanks for taking the time to document everything and for going through all the extra steps Josh. Definitely a fun thread to follow. I'm calling my shot...662 hp on Huck's Dyno.

Josh B.

I appreciate the kinds words sir. I try to log the important details. Huck was curious what my new combo would make when I visited his shop the other day to pick up the race gas. I said "about 660"

Josh B.

Little bit of an update. I'm hoping to receive the heads in about two and a half weeks. Really hope to have them before christmas to avoid the holiday shipping delays.

I found out a local GTR owner is a dealer for Ignite Racing Fuels. You might recognize the brand as the fuel used by Cunningham Motorsports for their shop car. The fuel is 90% ethanol, the other 10% is magic. I don't know, but I'm going to pick up a 55 gallon barrel of Ignite 114 for less than half the price of MS109.

Hoping that Vengeance Racing will be able to really get aggressive with the tune on Ignite Red, even with 13:1 SCR.

At this point I am going to start configuring the valve covers for use with the GZ Motorsports vacuum pump. My plan is to retain the stock baffles on the LS7 valve covers and pull vacuum from the PCV ports from the valve covers. Typically with YT shaft rockers, more clearance is required and some owners remove the baffle and the casting that supports it inside the valve cover to make room for the taller rockers. In order to leave the baffles as is, I might pick up some ICT Billet Valve Cover spacers, maybe 1/2", maybe 3/4". They use the stock GM gasket, so that is good. I just don't want to consume tons of oil into the reservoir on the vacuum pump system. I have read that LS owners who pulled their vacuum from the valley plate (where I originally planned...) would suck in 1/2 quart of oil on each pass!!

I'll try to get those kinds of bugs sorted out while Tony puts the finishing touches on the heads. That way I'm just spinning wrenches once I get the heads back instead of pausing to fabricate vacuum ports/lines.

Cheers,
Josh

Tony @ Mamo Motorsports

Josh,

I sell a Yella Terra thick gasket kit thats the answer to your needs. Allows you to retain the stock covers and internal baffling which is good. Allows the beefier roller rockers to still clear the valve covers....and no need for spacers. Looks great also.....bumps the clearance about .150 or so.

Here is a pic of an engine I built running the spacers....you can see the thick gasket between the valve covers and the head. I dig the look and it performs a vital function as well allowing you to retain the OEM covers and baffling without an ugly/aftermarket looking spacer



Problem solved....I can send them with the heads!

-Tony

double06

WOW Tony those factory covers look good painted black to match MSD.

Josh B.

Thanks Tony. I have a set of YT valve cover spacers. On one mock up they looked a bit close to the adjuster, but now I'm second guessing my memory. I'll check again once I receive the heads.

Thanks for the engine pictures. I like the black VCs. I'm going to try to make the engine appear stock as much as I can. I even toyed with the idea of media blasting my black NW 102 TB to mimic the look of the stock cast throttle body.

Even painting the ARH headers a shade of stainless that would mirror the look of petina'd stock LS7 manifolds...just ideas.

"Cam only, bolt ons. Nice GTR man, wanna run 'em?"

fueledpassion

Pretty sure a 650ish rwhp Z will eat a typical GTR's lunch, although I know those things are impressively fast.

What kind of RPM are you expecting to wring out of it? You (or Tony) may have already spoken on the subject but I noticed that the LSA and duration of the cam is designed to keep running strong in the top end... 7500-8000rpm's? Was not too sure how high you'd go assuming you stuck with the stainless intake valves. I guess the real question is how heavy are those hollow-stem intake valves and will it really matter all that much @ 7500rpm's?

Josh B.

Yeah, it seems that most GTRs are the bolt-ons factory turbo variety, since aftermarket turbos/built transaxles on those cars gets $$$$$ really quick. In my area, the strong running E85 GTRs with full bolt-ons dyno in the neighborhood of mid to high 600s AWHP. I was 2 cars ahead of my buddy's 650AWHP GTR from 40-160. Blew his mind, he was pretty sure he was going to win. And was on my old setup with WCCH heads and K501 cam. Pretty sure that if we raced after I install the MMS parts it would be a bloodbath

I will let the dyno graph dictate where the shift point is, putting it 500 rpm beyond peak hp. Tony and I discussed that this is not an 8000 rpm valvetrain, but that 7500 is within reason. The hollow stem intake valves are almost the same weight as the exhaust valve, I don't think they are an impediment to engine speed, IMO. The valve spring doesn't know if it has an intake valve or an exhaust valve on the end of it, if they weigh nearly the same I would imagine the SS hollow stem intake valve is a non-issue with the proper spring package.

Turbo2L

Tony, how oil resistant are those gaskets? They could easily be a solution to one time use OEM or aftermarket options. I'm potentially interested in a set for sheer convenience.

Unreal

What one time use OEM option? I've had my OEM gaskets on 3 different valve covers, and reused so many times (easy 20+).

Tech

I've never replaced valve cover gaskets on any of my LS1s. I've also never had a reason to.

Turbo2L

The new Felpros definitely swell when exposed to oil over a period of time. They're easily 3/8" longer when you remove and go to reinstall.

Unreal

Simple solutions the is run oem and not felpro.

Sorry for off topic. Still my favorite Na build on here.

Tony @ Mamo Motorsports

I have never had an issue with swelling etc.

I have a set on a valvecover/coil set-up that I use to dyno all the engines I build for customers (saves me from having to inconvenience customers to send me their coils etc.). I run them hard for a day or two of dyno testing....remove.....store for later (gasket staying inserted into the valve cover groove and coils stayoing bolted to the valve cover).....reinstall at a later date on another engine....no issues

That said, if you didnt really need the extra height I would recommend sticking with OEM.....nothing is more proven than that over the long haul....they just work. If you do need the extra height to clear the rockers then obviously the YT kit is a homerun and an affordable solution that looks OEM (versus spacers which I personally dont like the look of). I have been helping folks with this kit for years and they have been reliable for me and my customers.

-Tony

Josh B.

Tony, thanks for clarifying about the valve cover gaskets. I should be good with the YT gaskets and will plan to run those.

In other news, I corresponded with my tuner, Mike Carnahan @ Vengeance regarding the use of Ignite 114 racing fuel. In his testing of over 150 gallons of the fuel he wrote that he didn't pick up any hp, emphasizing how it's impossible to start a car when cold with that fuel "WILL NOT START".

So, looks like MS109 for now. Nothing wrong with that. I'll be wrenching on the car tomorrow to remove the old LG 1-7/8" headers.

Here are some tasks I can complete while the heads are being finished up:

Install Katech Red oil pump
Install Timing cover. Center the cover with new LS oil seal tool. Really a nice piece.
Port dry sump oil pan to match Katech Red oil pump
Install Improved Racing LS7 oil pan baffle
Install oil pan with ZR1/Z07 Oil Cooler, New OEM gasket
Install ATI 10% UD balancer, ARP bolt
Install ARH Headers, OEM gaskets, ARP SS 12pt bolts
Remove radiator shroud
Install LG Super Ram Air in place of factory radiator shroud
Install Dewitt's radiator/fan
Install Meziere EWP
Install 180* SBC thermostat with only one 1/8" bleed hole drilled into it
Install Suspension crossmember
Clean the ARP lube off the ARP head bolts
Finish cleaning off the block surface of gasket residue.
Clean the piston tops

I'm going to wait to drop the lifters in until the last minute, soaked in engine oil. I'll make another "preflight checklist" once the heads arrive back. Plenty more fun in store with rechecking PTV clearance, measuring pushrod length, setting valve lash, then setting valve lash, the resetting the valve lash

tdeweese

Josh,

Have you read anything "special" about installing the Katech pumps as far as using feeler gauges to center it? I have a Blue pump now and getting ready to install the Red pump to pick up some oil pressure loss due to Johnson ST lifters with axle oiling. All I planned to due is make sure the pump is even and flush with bottom of block. BTW the ARP balancer bolt sucks for turning the motor over later on, I will probably install the GM bolt this go around since you can you a regular wrench. vs 12 point and the rack in the way for a socket. just my 2 cents

Josh B.

I haven't read any special instructions to install the Katech Red Oil pump. Other than the requirement for the updated 2009+ crank sprocket, which I installed already.

Regardless of ARP or stock crank bolt, the ATI balancer's 10 rib pulley reduces the already tight gap between the balancer and the steering rack. You can't get a 12pt wrench in there with a ATI balancer. I see your point about the stock bolt and the factory balancer, a 24mm wrench and it makes turning the crank easy.

I'm using a remote crank trigger with spark plugs removed to set valve lash. I could leave the subframe off and crank the engine over to set the valve lash by hand, but I want to make a dent in my to do list and choose instead to use the remote crank trigger. Plus, its fun to use...just make sure you have a good battery and charger.

Undy

You already have a built-in "crank trigger". I used it during my last wiggle test. Pull the starter relay and the top pops off. Just push in the contact.