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C6 Corvette ZR1 & Z06General info about GM’s Corvette Supercar, LS9 Corvette Technical Info, Performance Upgrades, Suspension Setup for Street or Track
Only work done to the stock starter was solenoid, guy said the guts of the motor still look like new.
Warmed it up 20 minutes and it starts clean and us sounding normal, then drove it a 4 miles with a few hard pulls and started it twice in the driveway and it sounded normal after about 40 minutes of running.
Ill post back if I get any abnormal starts tomorrow, but so far I'm putting this to bed as a bad solenoid.
Sounds like you have it handled. I like that about you. No waiting around- get after it and "Git 'er done".
2 coats of this over solenoid
3 coats over the motor
1 coat on the alloy you see to the left of motor since this is the hot side and I want to reflect as much as possible.
Car starts perfect since it was cold, Warming up right now.
I'm sure you know this but for those that don't, the actual "switch" part of the solenoid is under the black plastic cover.
Is the solenoid available as a separate part or do you have to buy a complete new starter if it fails? If it is available separately does anybody have the part#?
Is the solenoid available as a separate part or do you have to buy a complete new starter if it fails? If it is available separately does anybody have the part#?
I ran across a few on ebay. Don't know the number.
But my local start shop had them for 30, but I had then tear it apart and make sure the rest was perfect and beed blast it [clean it]
Today it was hard to turn over. All mild driving no 3-7k pulls at all.
Guessing it is in fine tuning, because that is when I first noticed the issue. It was so rich at idle it would die easy and sometimes die when idling. he took what ever number up by 5. Maybe not enough? maybe tuners in here have an idea?
Today it was hard to turn over. All mild driving no 3-7k pulls at all.
Guessing it is in fine tuning, because that is when I first noticed the issue. It was so rich at idle it would die easy and sometimes die when idling. he took what ever number up by 5. Maybe not enough? maybe tuners in here have an idea?
Well, crap. Sounds like you need to drop a dime on your tuner. Is he reasonably nearby?
Is the solenoid available as a separate part or do you have to buy a complete new starter if it fails? If it is available separately does anybody have the part#?
Got one off amazon last week. Just sitting in the garage in case I need it.
Well, crap. Sounds like you need to drop a dime on your tuner. Is he reasonably nearby?
I hope its a tune related, I'm guessing here. My tuner did not think it had anything to do with the tune. He thought it was battery, its why I had it checked. [passed]
So for the last week it has started clean hot or cold and I noticed a slight decrease when warm over the last few days.
oil pressure idle hot is the same as before the cam swap at roughly 37, cold start ups, it idles at 65psi, so I don't think its bearing related.
I swear to best of my recollection, the first time I remember it doing this was during the start ups and stops during tuning.
Hopefully its something simple...you've addressed the obvious already.
Simple, throw a high toque starter is probably my next step.
While it may be tune related, the car runs great.
I have heard a few in the "my starter cranks slow" threads going as far back as this site has record, that to rich may be the issue. But I'm lost to the reality of a rich tune here, gladly claim ignorance on the new school tuning topic.
It can only be starter, or tune, or bearings by my understanding.
"Ran it to orielys and they tested the battery and it passed and failed for the starter test."
So exactly what test did they do with the starter when they told you it was bad.
As any motor ages, the insulation in the motor windings begins to break down to the point where the little wires begin to touch each other. adding heat makes it worse. The effect is like fewer windings resulting in less starter torque. Before I spent any more money, I would closely inspect the battery connections and all ground connections. Get a second opinion on the battery If everything else checks out and your sure the motor isn't stiffening up, go for a high torque starter.
Double check ALL of your grounds. How old is the current battery. Get a second opinion on the battery. Here's the deal. If the windings in the starter are bad, the starter will show a high current draw. But, if the motor is to tight, the starter has to work harder. The harder it works the more current it draws. Now think about what you've just done to the engine. More compression means harder to crank over. Did you mill the heads???
11-07-2016, 11:15 PM
