outhouse

So its turning over slow when hot, but only after ive done the cam and head install, and not all the time. Sometimes when hot it turns over OK.


Yesterday the tach read 0 and it was hard to start and ran rough, and after researching here many stated it was common with starter failure. Not enough current to the brains makes it go wonky.


I know this symptom can be 3 things, battery failure, starter failure, or rod bearing failure.


car runs perfect and about 33psi is as low as oil pressure gets, and it did not have this problem before I worked on it for 3 months. I believe its safe to say its not rod bearings. 65psi cold for oil pressure.


Ran it to orielys and they tested the battery and it passed and failed for the starter test.


So can the solenoid make it turn over slow when hot? I can get a solenoid for 30 bucks, or should I replace/rebuild the starter?

DaOtherOne

The cable from the alternator to the starter motor might be dirty/corroded.

My starter was acting up and cleaning the cable and coating it with dielectric grease fixed my hot start issues. It also fixed a low charging rate (less than 12 volts) that only occurred when the car what hot.

What does your battery levels look like when the car gets hot?

outhouse

14.5 and battery checked out fully charged and within spec for CCA.


I may get the 1.7 orielys starter.


Is it true these LS7's had a 1.1 stock???

Gary '09 C6

there have also been CF reports of the insulator on the starter cracking...

outhouse

Thanks bud.


I was going to pull it tonight after work, but I'm still here lol.


We have a great starter alt shop here in town, ill have go through it.

Gary '09 C6

a good plan...let us know the results.

outhouse

Thank you kind sir, she is on jackstands and thankfully I used anti seize on the exhaust bolts they started coming right out. Now to let it cool so I can get under it.

ttx350z

I'm cammed and mine did the same thing this summer when I was in Vegas and Cali. Hard to crank and Tach would read 0 with check engine light (cam position fault), misfires, etc. It would start and run fine when cooled. I knew my battery was dying and coupled with the heat, it was having a hard time cranking, also, my alternator was only giving me 12V when hot.

I replaced the old battery with an odyssey and installed a Billet-tech alternator to beef everything up and it works like a champ now. I can now go over 2 weeks without touching it and it'll crank without being on the charger whereas I couldn't before.

outhouse

Ya at first when tach said 0 I was like WTF did I do now


Lucky its not my battery which checked out fine and it is a stock battery 2 years old, and mine was charging hot at 14.5 so I'm good there. I took 7 weeks to finish my build and it fired right up never charging it once.


I should find out tomorrow when they bust this starter open, hopefully they can get it done tomorrow. If not ill have to ebay it.

User Omega

Not to highjack but could you elaborate on the rod bearings being a factor? I hadn't heard that one and would like to know more.

Landru

http://www.z06vette.com/forums/f64/2...ilures-137066/

outhouse

Rod bearings fail when a rod gets egg shaped from stretching, when they stretch out the rod actually pulls in towards the crank on the sides of the rod. So if one just tried to put in new bearings the rod would end up pinching the crank so tight your motor would be locked up.


In this case the heat swells the sides of the rod punching the crank a little making the engine hard to turn over. No clearance. Oil pressure usually very low at this point as well before spinning a bearing.

outhouse

Shop called and said starter was fine. I told them it worked fine when cold.


Asked what I wanted done and stated that inside the started looked good, so I told them to put a new solenoid on it and call it a day.

smitty1966

My car has a S/C and headers and I killed two starters and the pos and neg cables in 30,000 miles. Now I have the starter and cables wrapped. no problems in the 13,000 miles since.

outhouse

Nice!!


I'm thinking about that platinum DEI wrap I use on my motorcycle exhaust.

stefuel

Originally Posted by stefuel View Post

"I have read that the factory manifolds breath pretty well. What's the app? Are you really looking for that last couple of HP or bragging rights?
Remember, after you install your headers you will be looking at additional expenses like burned spark plug wires, starters and associated wiring getting burned up. Up for it?"

"In 10 years of running headers on my Z06, I have never burned one wire or burned up one starter."

In another thread I posted the above and shortly after, received the reply below it. I have no use for headers on a daily driver. I hate them on a DD. A dedicated race or show car is a whole different ball of wax

outhouse

I have stock exhaust.

outhouse

outhouse

2 coats of this over solenoid
3 coats over the motor
1 coat on the alloy you see to the left of motor since this is the hot side and I want to reflect as much as possible.


Car starts perfect since it was cold, Warming up right now.

outhouse

Only work done to the stock starter was solenoid, guy said the guts of the motor still look like new.


Warmed it up 20 minutes and it starts clean and us sounding normal, then drove it a 4 miles with a few hard pulls and started it twice in the driveway and it sounded normal after about 40 minutes of running.


Ill post back if I get any abnormal starts tomorrow, but so far I'm putting this to bed as a bad solenoid.