User Omega

I have tried a few swivels for the 2 (******) that don't like to come loose with a standard swivel. What are you guys using to get these guys loose? Maybe saving myself some trouble here. I can put a wrench in them but they are too tight with nothing to pry on for removing

As always with me, opinions and **** posting is allowed here.

*** Removing the oil pump with out the pull out and pray method. This gasket is worth protecting in my book. I'm too old for risking it. Maybe in with a piece of shim stock but not out. My luck is always the worst. Plan or be screwed for me.

phipp85

I've got some short 1/4" drive swivel sockets and a 14" extension that works well for stuff like that. Another option is a very short handled ratchet that fits nicely then break it loose with another tool like a long handled hammer(to push the ratchet)

rio95

You may think you're attempting to do it the right way but this method caused my pan to leak afterwards. All good now that I replaced the gasket, but I wondered how things would have ended up if I worked more on getting the pump off without lowering the pan. Just some word of caution. Also, I'm not sure which two bolts you're referring to. I was about to loosen them all.

Michael_D

I recall a couple of the bolts a PITA to get to, but patience and an assortment of extensions and swivels and reducers prevailed. Be very careful with torque values when you go back together. A couple of the rear bolts have lower values. I broke one of the f'ers. Took some head scratching to figure out how to get the remnant removed without dropping the spring and pan.

I'd also suggest sucking it up and getting all the bolts backed out, drop the pan a touch, then remove/install the pump. A glob of RTV at the forward corners. Mine doesn't leak.

rio95

I did not apply any new rtv so that could have been part of my problem. Oh well all new now.

outhouse

Same here.


I applied small dab before cover gasket and after gasket install just for peace of mind.

outhouse

Sage advise.

NemeZ

For me the hardest bolts were near the front, on the sides. I had to use a small 1/4 rachet and got to the bolts through the side. I just used regular sockets no swivel needed. Once I loosened all of them I pryed the pan down from the front. Getting the pump back on was a pain as well.

Nowanker

No tips for loosening the bolts, but I used a piece of microfiche film as protection for the gasket going back together. The pump slid on like butter... also found it helpful to use an extra oil pump drive poked into the pump backwards to align the pump segments and the crank gear. Slides out the F as the pump slides on...
If you can still find some microfiche film, it's one of the handiest things on earth, and unbelievably tough! I mostly use it for protecting interior panels when I need to pry trim off, but useful anywhere you need something strong and thin. I even used a piece with my tire changer to protect the rims. It probably lasted through a hundred tires before it gave up.

rjacobs

I got mine off and on without any damage.

When I put it back on I used some vaseline to lube everything on the bottom side up really well and just wiggled it a mm at a time until it was seated.

Everybody I talked to said either completely drop the pan and put a new gasket on, or do the wiggle method. They said dont just drop the front of the pan or dont just loosen and re-torque as its almost guaranteed to leak.

That was the most nerve wracking part of my build for me and wondering "am I going to have oil pressure".

User Omega

Good info here. Thanks guys.

So are you guys saying that a leak is caused by improper application of RTV in the front cover lower corners or what? I have heard many talk of great success dropping the pan a bit in front.

I have some shim stock .003" for going back in but its the pulling it off part that worries me. If the gasket is damaged can you drop the pan without dropping the cradle?

NemeZ

I only loosened the pan and have no leaks at all. I did in fact apply rtv on the corners of the pan where the timing cover meets the pan.

outhouse

Used a 11m added as a cheater on the 10m wrench, breaks right off.

rjacobs

I didnt use RTV, I used the anaerobic gasket maker on the front cover where it meets the pan. Not sure what the difference really is at the end of the day. Anaerobic gasket maker was quite a bit thinner than RTV, almost the consistency of red loc-tite.

Michael_D

I use Anaerobic when I want a very thin gasket between aluminum parts, like two cycle engines. It sets up quickly in the absence of air. I prefer the RTV when I want some crush and growth/expansion.

Dan_the_C5_Man

Same stuff I use to assemble motorcycle engine case halves.

rjacobs

I used the anaerobic because thats what the factory service manual called for, not that I didnt think RTV wouldnt work, but its basically aluminum front cover on aluminum oil pan so no real room to squish, so to speak, on the tight tolerances.

Nowanker

Ahhh. The science and superstition of gasket sealers!
Everybody has their favorites... Loctite and others make a Porsche spec orange anaerobic sealer for alum/alum gasketless apps... works great. I kinda like the Loctite anaerobic that looks like strawberry jelly to seal metal gaskets, but any where there are 2 planes involved (think oil pan and F or R cover) it's silicone RTV in the corners. 'the right stuff' works great.
Paper gaskets that need to be held in position during assembly? 'Gaskacinch'. Awesome stuff, but just the drawing on the can would make it worth buying!

Michael_D

In my ornery juvenile prankster days, I would use Permatex black on phones and ear muffs. Worked great!