[Z06] Piston wire lock removal tips?
#1
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Piston wire lock removal tips?
Anyone have a good method of removing these clips to separate the piston from the rod? I'd like to not destroy the piston but that seems unlikely after breaking a few small tools so far. The pistons don't have any relief grooves so you can get a tool up under the wire like most pistons.
#2
Le Mans Master
Last time I used that style of lock, I was installing (PIA), never removed them. I am thinking you need an angled pick, maybe another small tool to keep the lock from spinning in the slot.
Get some Spiro locks when reinstalling.
Signed,
Captain Obvious
Get some Spiro locks when reinstalling.
Signed,
Captain Obvious
Last edited by Dan_the_C5_Man; 01-01-2017 at 03:37 AM.
#3
Are you saving the pistons or reusing them? If saving them use a pick and very small screw driver and start at the end. The easy way if not reusing the pistons is to cut the ring in half with a die grinder.
#4
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
The locks aren't spinning easily, takes a small hammer and a punch to move it.
I hadn't really decided if I was reusing these or not yet, either way I didn't want to damage them. The lock ends are cut at an angle so it's like trying to get a pick up under the thin edge of a wedge. I'll try cutting it in half with the pencil grinder, should weaken it quite a bit. Thanks.
I hadn't really decided if I was reusing these or not yet, either way I didn't want to damage them. The lock ends are cut at an angle so it's like trying to get a pick up under the thin edge of a wedge. I'll try cutting it in half with the pencil grinder, should weaken it quite a bit. Thanks.
#5
Le Mans Master
I was also going to suggest getting the dremel out as a worst-case scenario solution.. Make sure you're doing your best "House" impersonation, keep those hands steady..
If it was me, I think I'd go down to Harbor Freight, buy a few angled larger picks for a few bucks, grind the tips down to the specific angles and dimensions you need, see if you can use the superior leverage a larger handle offers, either pry or twist them out, or you might break the tips off the tool, who knows...
Why do I think MD has the answer?
If it was me, I think I'd go down to Harbor Freight, buy a few angled larger picks for a few bucks, grind the tips down to the specific angles and dimensions you need, see if you can use the superior leverage a larger handle offers, either pry or twist them out, or you might break the tips off the tool, who knows...
Why do I think MD has the answer?
Last edited by Dan_the_C5_Man; 01-01-2017 at 02:18 PM.
#6
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
I was also going to suggest getting the dremel out as a worst-case scenario solution.. Make sure you're doing your best "House" impersonation, keep those hands steady..
If it was me, I think I'd go down to Harbor Freight, buy a few angled larger picks for a few bucks, grind the tips down to the specific angles and dimensions you need, see if you can use the superior leverage a larger handle offers, either pry or twist them out, or you might break the tips off the tool, who knows...
Why do I think MD has the answer?
If it was me, I think I'd go down to Harbor Freight, buy a few angled larger picks for a few bucks, grind the tips down to the specific angles and dimensions you need, see if you can use the superior leverage a larger handle offers, either pry or twist them out, or you might break the tips off the tool, who knows...
Why do I think MD has the answer?
#7
Le Mans Master
I do have a trick CNC'd piston installation tool, for 900cc motorcycle pistons, you can borrow it.. Happy New Year!
Last edited by Dan_the_C5_Man; 01-01-2017 at 04:29 PM.
#8
Drifting
You need to cut a small grove in one side of the OEM piston to remove the lock. They are impossible to remove with common tools.
Aftermarket pistons have a small grove on either end of the piston pin hole to facilitate installing pin locks. The grove does not effect the OEM piston strength. The grove needs to be offset to one side of the vertical hole for the pin. Dremel with a small carbide bit does the trick.
The OEM piston and rods are assembled by Mahle and supplied to GM. The OEM pistons are not available from GM as a separate item.
I have removed many LS7 rods from OEM pistons,both new crate engines and used pistons. Only way to remove the piston pins I have found.
Aftermarket pistons have a small grove on either end of the piston pin hole to facilitate installing pin locks. The grove does not effect the OEM piston strength. The grove needs to be offset to one side of the vertical hole for the pin. Dremel with a small carbide bit does the trick.
The OEM piston and rods are assembled by Mahle and supplied to GM. The OEM pistons are not available from GM as a separate item.
I have removed many LS7 rods from OEM pistons,both new crate engines and used pistons. Only way to remove the piston pins I have found.
Last edited by wstaab; 01-01-2017 at 04:45 PM.
The following users liked this post:
Landru (01-14-2017)
#9
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
You need to cut a small grove in one side of the OEM piston to remove the lock. They are impossible to remove with common tools.
Aftermarket pistons have a small grove on either end of the piston pin hole to facilitate installing pin locks. The grove does not effect the OEM piston strength. The grove needs to be offset to one side of the vertical hole for the pin. Dremel with a small carbide bit does the trick.
The OEM piston and rods are assembled by Mahle and supplied to GM. The OEM pistons are not available from GM as a separate item.
I have removed many LS7 rods from OEM pistons,both new crate engines and used pistons. Only way to remove the piston pins I have found.
Aftermarket pistons have a small grove on either end of the piston pin hole to facilitate installing pin locks. The grove does not effect the OEM piston strength. The grove needs to be offset to one side of the vertical hole for the pin. Dremel with a small carbide bit does the trick.
The OEM piston and rods are assembled by Mahle and supplied to GM. The OEM pistons are not available from GM as a separate item.
I have removed many LS7 rods from OEM pistons,both new crate engines and used pistons. Only way to remove the piston pins I have found.
I am looking at something like that from Mahle or JE. I was thinking I'd need to hone the bores to 4.1275" to clean them up but they are measuring a lot better than I expected.
#10
Drifting
Mahle forged pistons. They supply the pistons for the C7R race engines.They work with the stock LS7 rods which are an odd size in length. Two sizes 4.125 and 4.130 bore. Even though my bores were OK i wanted to hone the bores with a torque plate .005 oversize. If you go with the stock bore of 4.125 you just need to use a Flexible Cylinder Hone to rough up the bores.
If you need more info call me 404-867-5110.
I also have the tools for ring gapping, cam degreeing, measuring rod bolt stretch, ring compressors (4.130), specialty taps for cleaning threads in the block for head bolts, and other tools for building an LS7 engine.
If you need more info call me 404-867-5110.
I also have the tools for ring gapping, cam degreeing, measuring rod bolt stretch, ring compressors (4.130), specialty taps for cleaning threads in the block for head bolts, and other tools for building an LS7 engine.
The following users liked this post:
Landru (01-14-2017)
#11
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Mahle forged pistons. They supply the pistons for the C7R race engines.They work with the stock LS7 rods which are an odd size in length. Two sizes 4.125 and 4.130 bore. Even though my bores were OK i wanted to hone the bores with a torque plate .005 oversize. If you go with the stock bore of 4.125 you just need to use a Flexible Cylinder Hone to rough up the bores.
If you need more info call me 404-867-5110.
I also have the tools for ring gapping, cam degreeing, measuring rod bolt stretch, ring compressors (4.130), specialty taps for cleaning threads in the block for head bolts, and other tools for building an LS7 engine.
If you need more info call me 404-867-5110.
I also have the tools for ring gapping, cam degreeing, measuring rod bolt stretch, ring compressors (4.130), specialty taps for cleaning threads in the block for head bolts, and other tools for building an LS7 engine.
The following users liked this post:
Landru (01-14-2017)
#13
I missed this thread. Looks like you got'r figured out. The mod looks similar to JE/SRP pistons with wire locks as they come out of the box........I hate wire locks, and use spiral whenever possible.
#14
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Yeah those wire locks suck with no removal groove. Hell I don't even know how you would get them back in without shaving off a sliver of piston material and trapping it under the wire lock.
Do you guys think these pistons are worth selling or should I just use them for Christmas ornaments?
Do you guys think these pistons are worth selling or should I just use them for Christmas ornaments?
Last edited by phipp85; 01-15-2017 at 12:53 AM.
#15
Instructor
Did exactly what dstaab suggested when i removed my stock pistons to fit new Mahle pistons. Just make the notch where there is space between the two ends of the wire lock. Don't think there are any money in used stock pistons, not since new, improved aftermarket ones aren't that expensive. But who knows
Oh, and prepare to have your thumbs cry for mercy as you install the new wire locks in your new pistons
Oh, and prepare to have your thumbs cry for mercy as you install the new wire locks in your new pistons
Last edited by pierrel; 01-15-2017 at 12:33 PM.
#17
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Did exactly what dstaab suggested when i removed my stock pistons to fit new Mahle pistons. Just make the notch where there is space between the two ends of the wire lock. Don't think there are any money in used stock pistons, not since new, improved aftermarket ones aren't that expensive. But who knows
Oh, and prepare to have your thumbs cry for mercy as you install the new wire locks in your new pistons
Oh, and prepare to have your thumbs cry for mercy as you install the new wire locks in your new pistons
yes for sure!
#18
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Did exactly what dstaab suggested when i removed my stock pistons to fit new Mahle pistons. Just make the notch where there is space between the two ends of the wire lock. Don't think there are any money in used stock pistons, not since new, improved aftermarket ones aren't that expensive. But who knows
Oh, and prepare to have your thumbs cry for mercy as you install the new wire locks in your new pistons
Oh, and prepare to have your thumbs cry for mercy as you install the new wire locks in your new pistons
Did you go with the 1mm top ring or the 1.5mm?
#19
Instructor
I went with the 1,5mm ring.
Don't know if your DIY or having a shop do it. If DIY, have your rods sent to a machine shop to open up the piston side of the rod. The wrist pin is slightly larger than stock.
Just be real careful to triple check the bore, stroke and rod length specs. Mahle makes a variety of sizes, and its real easy to pick the wrong ones.
Try not to damage the old wire locks, and save some of them. IF one ore two flicks away from you when you install them on the new pistons, you have some spare ones. Because you probably won't find them ever again
Don't know if your DIY or having a shop do it. If DIY, have your rods sent to a machine shop to open up the piston side of the rod. The wrist pin is slightly larger than stock.
Just be real careful to triple check the bore, stroke and rod length specs. Mahle makes a variety of sizes, and its real easy to pick the wrong ones.
Try not to damage the old wire locks, and save some of them. IF one ore two flicks away from you when you install them on the new pistons, you have some spare ones. Because you probably won't find them ever again
Last edited by pierrel; 01-16-2017 at 12:03 PM.