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[Z06] MTBSully's 08 Z06 Winter 2017 Build (E85, MSD, Heads Etc)

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Old 01-17-2017, 09:46 PM
  #81  
Unreal
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Aftermarket intank setups run no bucket at all. No issue unless you run it super low on fuel, which then can overheat the pump/pumps anyways, so should not be done.

I think the bucket is more for keeping the pump covered in fuel to cool it than constant supply.
Old 01-17-2017, 10:38 PM
  #82  
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Originally Posted by Unreal
Aftermarket intank setups run no bucket at all. No issue unless you run it super low on fuel, which then can overheat the pump/pumps anyways, so should not be done.

I think the bucket is more for keeping the pump covered in fuel to cool it than constant supply.
Agreed. Was thinking about the dual walbro 455 pumps that I put in my cobra that just sat exposed in the tank. No issues at all there. Glad I cut the big hole in the bucket.
Old 01-17-2017, 11:18 PM
  #83  
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Originally Posted by MTBSully
Another hour or so tonight and I'm just about done. Couple notes:

-Dont understand why people cut the stock bucket. I reused the original filter sock and it went back together like factory.

-I did not cut the factory fuel line that doesnt attach to the pump. Not sure why some people do?

- I may cut down my fuel line a bit more. When the bucket assembly compresses on the springs it seems that it almost wants to kink. Why does the bucket change length anyways? It appears it rests in the tank in the compressed position.

I jumpered the relay again with the harness plugged back in and the fuel tanks still outside the car, and the pump kicked on. I should be good to go.
So I figured out why some people have to modify the buckets and some don't. The zo6 pump is a different shape than the ls3 pump (probably not news to anyone). The pump I just pulled out of my 2012 base car doesn't have the larger section at the bottom like the 450 (and your stock pump) so the actual hanger piece in the bottom section of the bucket is a totally different shape. There's no way to use mine as it is with the 450. I thought I had remembered that all ls3 cars ended up with z06 pumps some time late in production but I guess not.

I'll grab some pics tomorrow but I just wanted to share while I was thinking about it.

Last edited by sevinn; 01-17-2017 at 11:20 PM.
Old 01-18-2017, 08:51 PM
  #84  
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All back together. 50psi primed and ~62PSI at idle. Now the real teardown can begin....
Old 01-18-2017, 09:45 PM
  #85  
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Originally Posted by MTBSully
All back together. 50psi primed and ~62PSI at idle. Now the real teardown can begin....
Nice! That sounds like a success! I think I'll pull the trigger now. Thanks so much for the info.
Old 01-19-2017, 05:48 PM
  #86  
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More progress this evening. Went from a running car to this in about an hour. That really escalated quickly! Tomorrow or later this weekend I will get under the car and start draining coolant, unbolting exhaust etc. Was too lazy to jack it up again right now. So far so good for my first time working on a vette! (knock on wood).

Heres an idle clip of the current setup since I dont think i have posted one yet. Will be good to compare when I am done in spring.










And for ***** and giggles, todays earlier project. The 8 month old and less than 10,000 mile Napa caliper that I removed from my f350 after I smelled burning brakes. They won't warranty it since I dont have the receipt. **** em, ordered two brand new OEM motorcraft ones. Garbage.


Last edited by MTBSully; 01-19-2017 at 08:54 PM.
Old 01-22-2017, 03:07 PM
  #87  
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Hey I have a quick question , was there a fuel filter besides the sock on the pump that we should change while we're in there , read the filter was at the top of the fuel bucket ?
Old 01-22-2017, 07:05 PM
  #88  
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I didnt see one.
Old 01-23-2017, 08:23 PM
  #89  
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Well I got the fuel tank out of my car in 2 hours , I pulled the driver muffler which gave me lots of room for my hands , and I did pull the black ring back and out with my fingers bit had to use a screw driver for the locking ring , then I pulled my guts out for 10 straight minutes taking like 30 sec brakes to give my forearm a rest but I muscled that intermediate tube right out , I can tell you that thing is like spring loaded into the driver tank and that's part of the reason it's so hard to pull out , also nobody mentioned to pull the rear inner fender for access to the fuel neck so I almost broke the little drain tube cause I just took the bolts out of the filler neck thinking the whole thing would slide out of there , I felt stupid to say the least , I took the clamp off the hose where it goes into the tank and reached up in there and pooped the clip loose to get that small drain hose loose , then after all that I reached my hand up there trying to figure out how that neck came out and realized the inner fender gave access to that area , so anyway nothing broke except for the 2 slide clips that hold the small drain hose on the filler neck and where it conects to the passenger tank , easy fix though . All in all I could easily do it super fast now and going back in will be gravy . Thanks for all the help in this thread and others as I knew 80% of what I was getting into , especially with the intermediate pipe

Last edited by injfuel; 01-23-2017 at 08:23 PM.
Old 01-23-2017, 09:55 PM
  #90  
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Did u guys buy a new stock stock or reuse?
Old 01-24-2017, 09:25 AM
  #91  
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Originally Posted by injfuel
Well I got the fuel tank out of my car in 2 hours , I pulled the driver muffler which gave me lots of room for my hands , and I did pull the black ring back and out with my fingers bit had to use a screw driver for the locking ring , then I pulled my guts out for 10 straight minutes taking like 30 sec brakes to give my forearm a rest but I muscled that intermediate tube right out , I can tell you that thing is like spring loaded into the driver tank and that's part of the reason it's so hard to pull out , also nobody mentioned to pull the rear inner fender for access to the fuel neck so I almost broke the little drain tube cause I just took the bolts out of the filler neck thinking the whole thing would slide out of there , I felt stupid to say the least , I took the clamp off the hose where it goes into the tank and reached up in there and pooped the clip loose to get that small drain hose loose , then after all that I reached my hand up there trying to figure out how that neck came out and realized the inner fender gave access to that area , so anyway nothing broke except for the 2 slide clips that hold the small drain hose on the filler neck and where it conects to the passenger tank , easy fix though . All in all I could easily do it super fast now and going back in will be gravy . Thanks for all the help in this thread and others as I knew 80% of what I was getting into , especially with the intermediate pipe
There are two youtube videos I watched for dropping the tank. I had more trouble lining up the crossover than I did taking it out. Hopefully you have better luck than I did.

Agreed though, like most projects, If I had to do it again, I bet I could have the tank down in a half hour or less.

Originally Posted by rio95
Did u guys buy a new stock stock or reuse?
Reused. Mine only has 14K miles on it and I didnt feel like waiting for a new one.
Old 01-24-2017, 11:00 AM
  #92  
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Pulled the job number off of my WCCH heads to see exactly what was done. Looks like they have been milled .020" already. I was thinking mill another .020"? I would still like to be able to run 93 octane once and a while. Shout of to WCCH for providing me with this info!




Havent made much progress last few days. Spent saturday getting my truck back together and I bought a new DD (2004 acura TSX) on Sunday for cheap so I have been messing with the few issues that that has yesterday. Last night I jacked the car up and drained the coolant and pulled off the radiator hoses. Next step is to remove radiator and such. Hopefully get to that tonight.
Old 01-24-2017, 07:32 PM
  #93  
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sorry if it was asked, but do you have part numbers for those dark stars? Can't find much about them.
Old 01-24-2017, 08:29 PM
  #94  
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Originally Posted by jayyyw
sorry if it was asked, but do you have part numbers for those dark stars? Can't find much about them.
17x9.5 rear , 17x4.5 front , Darkstar-direct drill
Old 01-25-2017, 04:14 PM
  #95  
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What size tire on the rear? Spacers needed for either front or rear?
Old 01-25-2017, 10:54 PM
  #96  
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Originally Posted by jayyyw
What size tire on the rear? Spacers needed for either front or rear?
20mm spacer on the rear to clear z06 brakes. 315/35R17 Hoosier dr2
Old 01-26-2017, 12:22 PM
  #97  
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Worked a little more last night. Forgot to take a pic but on the drivers side on the intake shroud there appears to be two hydraulic lines that look like they go to the trans cooler. Do these need to be removed? I dont see how I can remove the shroud without removing them.

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Old 01-26-2017, 02:30 PM
  #98  
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yes they have to be disconnected.its for the oil cooler. grab some rags b/c it gets messy
Old 01-28-2017, 03:41 PM
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F that crossover tube , fought with it for 30 minutes trying to get it back in , pulled it back out twice , the third time I turned it just a little more to the left and it literally went right in and I turned the the metal lock ring by hand that how good it went in , anyway I'm right behind you sully , be pulling my heads tonight
Old 01-29-2017, 12:10 PM
  #100  
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Originally Posted by injfuel
F that crossover tube , fought with it for 30 minutes trying to get it back in , pulled it back out twice , the third time I turned it just a little more to the left and it literally went right in and I turned the the metal lock ring by hand that how good it went in , anyway I'm right behind you sully , be pulling my heads tonight
****! I better get to work, was away snowboarding all weekend.


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