~STOLEN~

Buddy and I got the worst part done (about 5hrs) which in my opinion is gettin the trans/diff/torque tube out.
my c5z had a removable lower section on the bellhousing, the c6z doesnt unfortunately

just wondering if anyone has any advice or tricks they used to make removal of the bellhousing bolts a little easier.

if not, gues its gonna SUCK either way LMFAO

installing a mcleod rxt and a DTE brace
having factory flywheel resurfaced



thanks in advance fellas

Unreal

Lower it on cradle as much as you can. Skip the ARP flywheel bolts and use factory. ARP tend to hit dual disc setups.

~STOLEN~

WHAT!!!!!
I thought I'd be doing a good thing as a buddy of mine RE used his oem and thy backed out destroying his monster clutch
It was a ls7 hci car but not a twin

I dunno man on the fence about stockers , could use red loctite I guess

outhouse

Never red unless called for, Blue works fine.

Unreal

Factory bolts come with thread locker on them.

~STOLEN~

does anyone have any pics from doing this process by chance?

Unreal

With the ARPs, just double/triple check. They are taller than factory bolts and can rub on aftermarket clutches. To me, it isn't worth the chance when OEM bolts are 100% fine for that application.

As for the bell housing bolts, long extensions and swivels, lots of cussing, and enjoy. I think putting them back in is worse than pulling them out.

rjacobs

I RARELY pay anybody to work on my vehicles, but the clutch in my Z will be getting done at a shop. I just dont feel like pulling the whole driveline out in my garage, on jack stands.

Unreal

IMO just do it. It is a job that needs to be done every 2-3 years max with a high hp car, so learn to do it. It gets easier every time.

~STOLEN~

i did it in my c5z for a rpm tranny and diff and 2 yrs ago said id never do it again.......look at me now


its not bad if you have a buddy that is as skilled as you or better, but the older i get, i feel like this was my last time on a vette to do a drive line r&r


Unreal i will get some pics of the mic readings of both in and out with flywheel on and off.

as far as patience and cussing.....i have a limited vocabulary so many cuss words will be flying around

~STOLEN~

here is the oem clutch and it seems like it has some life left in it, flywheel isnt horrible either.
taking the flywheel to local shop to have turned and balanced with clutch on it.


UNREAL as promised here are the pics of the ARP vs OEM flywheel bolt measurements.
the arp is DEF a little taller on the head of the bolt.
i will make sure to have clearance before i install for sure.

had the intake off the car as well as valve covers so i didnt end up having to lower the cradle because i had enough movement with the engine since the torque tube was off the car.

thanks for advice and help thus far.


updating with pics once flywheel and clutch is back from shop

Unreal

Just get new OEM flywheel bolts. Too hard to determine if clearance.

~STOLEN~

talked to Brian @ McLeod and they DO have the clearance to run ARP flywheel bolts.

HOWEVER, ls7 oem flywheel will NOT work with a RXT because its recessed....damn, another 300 bucks to spend

Tech

Was _just_ going to tell you that

~STOLEN~

YA i was pissed when i found that out lol

between buying a mcleod flywheel to mate to the rxt, the katech billet tensioner to clear the NW throttle body with a nitrous outlet plate kit and all the fluids in the car ill have spent 600 bucks that i didnt intend on spending.
and people say harleys suck you dry with part prices guess they have never turned wrenches and modded a vette

ne how, flywheel is due in tomorrow, will be back at it wed afternoon

Tech

I think you're referring to what some people call "labor of love". Sick bastards.

Unreal

If I added up all that stuff that pops up I would cry.

Modding cars is expensive. Having a 600+rwhp car is not a cheap exercise. This year alone I'm 10k+ into random crap that wasn't expected. Driveshaft, clutch, torque tube, tires, brakes, etc etc

~STOLEN~

i was wondering about inspecting the torque tube couplers while it is out. id hate to have the damn thing R&Rd again over some little **** like that. I bought a huge set of snap ring pliers just to take it apart. may as well use them one more time and inspect these while they are out.


i agree it is a labor of love but DAYUM i need a freebie sometimes hahah or a HEY there is something i dont have to replace (that the prev. owner replaced)

outhouse

You around a 100k yet for price of car and all mods for your 1000 ish hp ?





I'm staying at 600 hp at the crank and 35k


Still have minor things pop up, let alone the wish list that pulls at the wallet strings fiercely.


So addictive

Unreal

Hard to say. Sold so many stock parts. Don't pay labor. Got a lot of parts for free or severe discount. Paid $39k for the car back in 2009, probably have $35-40k in parts. Lots of used stuff, lots of good deals. Definitely couldn't replicate it now for less than $100k.