freddyvette

So I got an update. I removed all the pistons and none of them were sticking. The front ones looked a little worse than the rears, but they popped out with hydraulic force and were re-installed with finger pressure. All the boots looked brand new (AFTER 48k miles!). The rear pistons still showed machine crosshatching while the front ones had a bit of scuffing and finish wear. The piston bore seals had no indication of tearing.

I still have the issue where I hear brake noise after releasing the brakes.

By the way I have stainless steel brake lines and one piece pads.

outhouse

Sounding like the pad material.

Undy

Or a warped rotor. I'd put a dial indicator on them.

freddyvette

So you're saying the pad is defective? Or just the nature of this line of pads? I've already replaced them (warrantied out through Stoptech)

I shall, but they're brand new rotors. I've also had them turned.

outhouse

no


I'm guessing at this point so bear with me.


But I'm talking about the composition, aggressive more track orientated pads make noise, that's why they are track pads and not street pads.

freddyvette

Today I checked runout of all four rotors and re-bled the fronts (got up at 7:30, finished by 9! go me!) and all rotors within .001" so good to go.

I think you may be right. I'm actually fine with the friction squealing. It's the residual brake engagement that I am worried about.

I'm out of ideas. I've checked everything you guys have thrown at me. Time to drive it off a cliff...

Les

Do you have an old set of different type pads you can plug in just to see if that changes things?

outhouse

No man, it just is what it is, get a street set and check like Les states.


posiquiets are cheap and mine work great less a little dust which requires weekly cleaning I think I was 65 for all 4 corners

User Omega

Here is a weird one for you. I have had a brake line that the inside of the line actually separated and then became swollen and began restricting the fluids ability to return. I came pretty close to burning the car. I even replaced the entire caliper before this discovery. Luckily the vehicle wasn't this pricey but its a thought.

You could confirm the brake dragging by taking the car out cold and running it for a long distance with the noise. Than come to a stop using downshifting and e brake but not actually using the brakes. Temp gun the rotors and see what you get. Something makes me think that in this case you may just have noisy pads as discussed.

Kenny94945

Since the pistons appear proper.

Yes check rotor runout.
Blue print the pads.
Re-bed.

Many complain about break squeak, which the OP does not mention, so a search for driving procedures to reduce squeak could help.

Good luck.

freddyvette

Update on this:

The sticking seems to have gone away.

HOWEVER I have a lot of brake squeal when the car warms up after a while. It gets really bad and annoying after 20 to 30 minutes of driving.

Again I'm at a loss.

I have on

Bill Dearborn

Are the pads the stock padlets? Have you removed the pads and inspected each of them. Several of the padlets in the caliper have metal brake squealers to alert the driver to worn pads. If those pads are tapered they can look fine from the top of the caliper but be totally worn out on one side lower in the caliper. That would let the squealer touch the rotor when you hit the brakes and the pad wouldn't lift off the rotor for a few rotations of the wheel after you lift off the brake pedal so you might be able to hear it rubbing against the rotor.

Bill

User Omega

If I were freddy and I had no other options left I would apply this to the back of each padlet. I have used this on an AutoX car that had nasty squealing Brembos. Worked perfectly and only took a few minutes to do.