injfuel

I think some people just get on generous dynos and set a very high standard for certain mod combinations , I too have a very similar setup and made 547/511 , I feel like this is what we should be making and we shouldn't even consider comparing what another car made on a completely different Dyno because of the PROVEN inconsistencies between dynos

jayyyw

I hear you but you can't deny wanting to say you put down over 600whp. At least I'd love it.

The car rolls out, don't get me wrong. As soon as I get the kinks with the exhaust worked out, I'll be 100% happy with it.

injfuel

I actually had the cheap OBX headers on my car when I bought it , they seemed like decent headers , I've had kooks and the quality is def not that of the kooks but the OBX fit great and sealed up good , I hate exhaust leaks/issues so I feel your pain , and yes I'd love to have 600hp but I don't want to spend another $5k on top of the $5k I spent and really I wasn't saying that we should be happy with what we have but rather that maybe we would be making more power on other dynos and shouldn't get hung up on 10-20hp me may or may not have made on our dyno pulls , I do know I'm probaly gonna get an MSD intake after my clutch just because I want to maximize what I spent on the headwork and cam specs , my ultimate plan was to put a 100 shot plate kit on the car after my clutch install

jayyyw

I'm also thinking of a 100 or 150 shot later down the road. I'll probably do 3.90 or 4.10 gears before that tho.

AzDave47

You do know that 3.90 or 4.10 goes in a standard C6 dif and the cost installed is substantial $? No alternative rear gears for the C6Z case, even after all these years. Alternative ZR1 gears for the tranny though.

GARY2004Z06

Do not worry about your numbers. The delta between the before and after numbers is more important. The track will give you a good idea of what power you are making. A true 600 rwhp Z should be trapping in the 142-143 mph range.
For the 1/4 mile, a diff change is the better of the two options. With that said, a 2.97 first gear will give you most of that performance. Also, I believe that you mean Z51 gearing (MZ6 transmission) since the ZR1 has a 2.29 first gear.

AzDave47

I did mean the ZR1 gearing and there are two different sets, 1St, 5th and 6th are different from the Z06 box. It matters if you run 1 or 1 1/2 mile events as the 5th and 6th are better where Z06 6th is useless.

GARY2004Z06

My bad. What are the two different 1st gear ratios?

AzDave47

Sorry, it may just be that there is a different ZR1 1st vs the Z06 1st, I don't have the ratios, though.

jayyyw

I'm aware of the cost/case change that's needed for a gear change in the rear of the Z06. Sucks that nothing has been made for the Z06 diff.

injfuel

I have a 550whp zo6 and I don't think that the stock gearing is bad at all , the torque curve and hp curve are great on my setup , I've got a few races In and I would def have to race the car for a bit longer before I would be comfortable with the extra gearing , one zo6 I raced had almost the exact same power as I did and he had a weld RTS setup with 17 inch rear rims (I'm on stock zo6 wheels) and I was blown away by how much faster he had to make gear changes than I did . I asked one of my knowledgeable friends and he said it's kind of a way to cheat and get a little more gearing , my tires are 27.26 and his are right at 26 tall , and with the nitrous it should be perfect

jayyyw

I just recently changed to a 17" rear wheel with a 315/35 tire. It's roughly 25.7" in diameter. I haven't gotten on it too much, but I did notice the revs climbing quicker.

If/when I do the gear change, I'd likely have to change to a 28" tire because traction would probably present an issue even with a drag radial.

GARY2004Z06

Be very careful if you plan to drag race using a DR. You would be better served with a bias ply tire if you are looking for the lowest 60's with the least amount of stress on the drivetrain. Good or even great 60's are possible on DRs but much harder on parts and are generally less consistent. For the street, a 28" +/- DR, will work extremely well with a gear swap.

injfuel

I'll be honest my nitto nto5r tires hooked perfect from a 35mph roll in first and dead hooked at any speed in second but the car just seems soooooo squishy and loose in the back , I find it hard to fathom it is that bad with such a small sidewall but it is , I've ran the tires at 25and 30psi and no subtle difference , normal driving is fine but once I let the throttle loose I really have to focus on "driving" the car going in a straight line

GARY2004Z06

I heard that about the Nittos from my buddies Bruce (aka Fartpipe) and Dennis (Dennis50NJ) and they convinced me to go with M/T 305/35R19s as my street tire. It was fine when I got caught in the rain and was stable at speed.

jayyyw

Then you won't like MT Steet S/S radials. Then are unstable during high speed acceleration and braking. This is just my experience so far with these tires. I have not tried to air them down to see if that helps stability/traction. From what I've seen, they like 24-26psi on the street. Just not sure how comfortable I am driving at that PSI, daily.

injfuel

Well I have had my nittos to 160mph , but I felt like one wrong correction with steering and it could be a bad day , could just be in my head but I did pull Michelin pilot SS off the car so obviously that's gonna be a big difference

jayyyw

I need to try a lower air pressure. Many state 22-26psi is much more stable at high speeds. Just need to make some adjustments to my ride height. The rear of my car is sitting lower than the front with these wheels/tires on the back.

AzDave47

Definitely bad for aero impacts on car stability.

jayyyw

Fixed the ride height issue.

So, I took the plunge and ordered a Mamo MSD and NW102 throttle body. I have a problem with buying stuff "just for now" with the idea of upgrading later on. I'm trying to break that habit. I went back and forth for a long time on the manifold/tb setup and told myself that it's not worth NOT going all in with the Mamo setup.

As far as expected whp/tq gains, I'd honestly be happy with a fatter mid-range and another 20hp/20tq peak gains. I don't think I will hit that magic 600whp number this go round. I feel there may some inefficiencies with my setup and it may boil down to the heads. I don't think the headers are holding me back as much as I want to believe they are.

I was also thinking of switching my Haltech 103 for something else, but I want to try to get a "true" before and after comparison. Hoping DSteck at DMS will still be my tuner and have an appointment setup in the next few weeks.

After this, I am 90% certain I will collaborate with Tony to go with his MMS265 head setup and custom spec'd cam.

Lastly, I have to give a shout-out to the wife. Without her support, I wouldn't be able to do any of this. She knows pretty much exactly what I've spent on this car so far and doesn't mind. She loves riding in it.