Tierraman

Hey All, I just had a Heartbeat installed on my 15' Z51 7M and I can't wipe the grin off my face...haha. I have a couple/ few questions for anyone that might be able to help.

Temp running about 10-12* higher than before (212=215ish), but of course it was 100* in Albuquerque yesterday. Will this run cooler in the winter or should I start considering other ways to keep things cooler. I do have a Z06 grill ready for install that I thought would/could help airflow...

Tuner seems to know what he's doing and has done 15+/- C7's. He's claiming every C7 he's done produces a "Reduced Power" mode upon startup and he can't figure out how to eliminate this. I simply confirm the alert on the dash and all seems fine. Is anyone else getting this message after a tune?

Car seems to run as stock if I don't get into the peddle, but if I do...holy cr*p...haha When I slow the car to a stop and depress the clutch, the idle drops down to 1,000, then immediately drops again to a normal (650) idle. Is this common? or should I talk to the tuner about this? He starts with his base tune, then tunes each car to what works best for that individual car. Numbers came-in at 562.42 rwhp and 556.79 rwtrq at 5,100 feet elevation.

Please comment if you have experience with any of these items and thanks in advance for your response....

JS

Patrick G

Tell your tuner to set the top speed limiter values back to stock of every C7 he's tuned. That should eliminate the REP issue at start up. The thermostat of the Maggie heartbeat kit is higher than stock which is frustrating. It's not because it doesn't cool as well. It's the stat. I've been waiting on Magnuson to offer the promised lower temp thermostat, but it's not yet available.

C7&7

This is what makes this forum great!

Tierraman

Thanks so much Patrick!! I spoke with the tuner today and I'll take the car back in next week. He's happy to give that a try but said he had the top speed set to max, which is like 331 mph...haha. Do you know what the stock figure is?

Joe

Tierraman

So true!! Great peeps out here....

Tierraman

I few more questions for you experts, now that I've been enjoying the Magnuson for a couple days. I can't seem to find the answers by searching here, or the web.

Does this system have it's own separate cooling system? I noticed a small coolant holding tank (approximately a half quart sized), between the SC and the new radiator(s). Fluid level is just below a small hole in this tank, which I'm assuming is some kind of overflow port that leads back to one of the two SC radiators. If this is a separate system, how does it recirculate the water? Also, I believe I hear fluid gurgling upon a cold start. Is this normal or should the SC and/or stock system be burped to remove any air? Asking these questions because the car now runs a little hotter than stock and the cooling fan now runs all the time once the car has warmed up with or w/o the a/c on. Any information would be appreciated.

The increased power is SICK!

Note: Before sending this off and assuming I knew what I was doing, I did pull the filler cap off the main coolant system; cold started and let idle until the fan came on (assuming the thermostat is opened by then), and a little steam wafting from the tank. Fluid level dropped about 1/8th inch, so not sure if that did anything.... Didn't touched the SC coolant tank, but may do that upon the next cold start.

joemosfet

Glad you're enjoying your ride! Getting to know the extra power certainly is fun.

Yep, the the maggie uses an internal air-to-water intercooler inside the supercharger which then has hoses to a new water-to-air radiator. There is a reserve tank and a pump for this. It's not surprising you hear the water being pumped around.

As gasses (in this case, air) become compressed they release heat. Without a supercharger, all that compression was happening in the cylinder only. Now, with a blower, you're compressing air before it even gets to the engine, where it's compressed further. The supercharger's intercoolers do a good job removing heat from the compressed air, but unless you're putting ice in your supercharger reservoir, it will generally be hotter than ambient air, and thus, your vehicle has more heat to dissipate, and is why your coolant temps rise. Your tuner may also have lowered the temperature that the fans come on to help with this, as well.

2highpsi

Have the stock thermostat put back your car, the one that is included with the Magnuson was probably the 2014 thermostat which is a 95C, the 2015 and later C7s received a 90C thermostat.

That's why your fans are running all the time, they are trying to keep the car at about 90C and the thermostat is holding it at 95C.

Tierraman

Why is Magnuson shipping thermostats with higher figures? Looks like a PIA to change compared to stock....ugh.

Tierraman

Since I got the mag install, I've noticed that under very light load, I'm getting a ping or rattle. Only when letting out the clutch with either no load or very little load...just to get moving in first gear. No ping or rattle once the clutch is fully engaged, and i'm certain it's not the clutch assembly. Is this something I should have the tuner look at? No pinging/knocking/rattling under any other condition. I'm running 91 octane at 5,200' elevation. The car runs great

Patrick G

Try to replicate this in 4th or 5th gear by taking the rpm down to 700-800 and see if it still does the pinging then. This will rule out whether it's clutch or driveline related. You'll want to duplicate the rpm and amount of throttle like what triggers the pinging in 1st gear.

Tierraman

Patrick, Thanks much for your response and I'll describe this in detail. Upon cold start in the garage, I hear the "ringing" until the rpm's calm down and things get more quiet (in sport mode), then no ring/ping. I think it's done that before SC, but maybe not?. Then when I let out on the clutch to back out (no throttle) it makes this ringing sound and the same when I pull forward with either no throttle or very little.

Today I did what you suggested under an underpass (4th gear, less than 1K rpm) under 1/8 throttle and the ring was there, but barely...most people wouldn't pay attention to that. Once the car warms up I can hear a little ring under mild throttle as I start from a stop, but not all the time. FYI, The first drive out from having the SC installed I was in 6th, running about 1.3K rpm and heard a mild knock when I gave it 50%+ throttle, so I'm just making sure I don't give any significant throttle in a high gear below 1.3K rpm, as it seems normal this would happen in any car....

I've heard that tuners turn the knock sensor(s) down with these SC's; however I don't believe my tuner turned the sensor(s) off, which I hear is not good. Today, I will add a little 101 fuel to see if that does anything. I'm pretty **** with my vehicles, and since I know I no longer have an engine warranty, I maybe more sensitive to this noise (as mentioned, maybe it was there pre-SC?) Would you suggest I have the tuner check this out, or am I being paranoid? haha. Regardless, I need to send it in to have them set the speed limiter back to stock, because I'm getting that "reduced engine power" light upon start as mentioned earlier in this thread.

One last bit of information that may help, I put the traction control in weather-mode last weekend, as it was raining. I gunned it from a start to see if the traction control would take over (timing retard, abs, etc) and it didn't.....spun the tires until I let off the throttle. I know the tune also turned off the 1-4 shift which I like, and the 4 cylinder mode, which I could care less...

Appreciate your advise,

Joe

NoOne

First if your tuner turned off the Knock Sensors find a new tuner.

Second...have you taken a listen outside the car? Have you taken it to a shop and had them replicate the problem in the air?

I'm a big believer in KISS. You took apart part of the car, loosened stuff up, etc...maybe it is just a loose part and only vibrates at a certain frequency?

You'd be surprised what a loose nut will sound like vibrating at the right frequency. After my meth pump was replaced I had this terrible 'knock' sound but only on hard acceleration in 3rd or 4th. I thought the new pump wasn't doing its job.

Quarter turn of the lower fender body mount bolt fixed it. The knock was only in 3rd or 4th because I was going fast enough for it to move, and it only did it under acceleration.

Tierraman

Just to close my part of this thread.... Had the tuner lower the speed limiter which took care of the "reduced power" indicator. He had maxed it out which set the message, however there was never actual reduced power. He did turn the 1-4 shift off, but other than his tune, everything that keeps the engine safe is OEM, even the knock sensors specs. That made me feel very good! The noise I'm hearing is nothing that concerns him, maybe combustion, but definitely not detonation....was likely there and I didn't notice it until I started reading some of the (bad tune) disasters online...haha. Kind of like being around someone that's sick, then feeling sick yourself..... I'm going to stop being overly cautious and just enjoy the new power, which is awesome!! Thanks for your input guys... And thank you Motiva Performance in Albuquerque for a great install and safe tune that's kicking out 562/557 to the rears

robert miller

Man have fun in her and just be safe also.

CaliforniaJed

Can't believe by this point in the thread we still don't have a pic of the engine bay! C'mon, man!!!

Have fun.

Jed

Tierraman

Haha Jed, Suppose I should and will do after I get it back from the dealer. I lowered the suspension this week and it's getting a four wheel alignment, plus trying to solve why the front facia is not fitting flush with the left fender. Love this car, however the body panel fitment on these cars could/should be better at these prices..... Stay tuned.

Tierraman

It's a clean install....






Looks benign, but isn't.....lol

LuckyGuy

Here's mine with ALKY meth...599 rwhp and 614 rwtq...what a blast!

joemosfet

^ Do you blow your meth through the SC rotors? Or is the nozzle installed on the boost side of the blower?

I read that, if sprayed on the vacuum side of the blower, tiny droplets impacting the rotor blades will start pitting and wearing them. This was on a centri kit, so perhaps PD doesn't have the same issue.