Aubaub787

And how much adjustment can you get?

travisnd

Search for a lowering how-to for C5s or C6s; it's the same. In the front you turn the bolt counter-clockwise to move the adjuster closer to the spring. This closes the gap between the lower control-arm and spring thereby lowering the car. In the rear the spring hangs below the a-arm. You back off the nut to where only a couple of threads show on the bolt this widens the distance between the spring and lower control-arm thus pushing the suspension higher up in the car and allowing the car to sit lower. To go farther than OEM adjustments you can cut the spring adjuster pad in the front and out back you can get longer bolts. However, going farther than OEM will negatively alter suspension geometry and the shocks will be bottoming out. For best performance lower the car 1/2-3/4" from OEM height and leave it there. Those that go more are just looking for a "slammed" look and are actually hurting the handling capabilities of the car.

Racecars you see super low all have drop spindles on them to lower the car while maintaining suspension geometry and shock travel.

C7Z51_2014

If we adjust the bolts, does the car need realignment? And...

I seem to recall the angle of the C6 had a 5 degree rake and we were supposed to maintain that. Is that also true with C7? I assume so..

travisnd

Yes... lowering the car changes camber and toe so you'll want to get it realigned. As far as maintaining rake I would assume the C7 is the same. You want about 1/2" rake from the front frame hole (tie-down hole) to the rear frame hole.