robertbruce

I was talking to the mechanic who does the service work for the c7. He said when he changes oil in the c7 with the dry sump oil system he disconnects the two oil lines going in to the pan from the oil canister to get an extra quart of dirty oil out of the system. He says mosts places where you get your oil changed do not do this. How do you guys do it?

mjw930

Seems redundant, the 2nd plug on the oil pan drains the line from the tank and since it's lower than the tank and all the lines gravity should take care of everything.

robertbruce

I thought the same thing but he said he gets another quart of oil out when he disconnects the lines.

*C7*

On a C6 Z06 you get about an extra pint out by removing the lines.

MachAll 2005

I "blow" the tank on our ZR1 with a hair dryer with the drain plugs out ... get nearly a half quart out ... thus takes 11 qts to refill

JoesC5

The line that runs from the reservoir through the oil pan line(and the drain) then to the second oil pump(pressure) on my Z06 sags just a little and traps some oil. I just push up on the hose and a couple of oz's of oil will come out the drain. I wait a couple of minutes and do it again. I repeat this until no more oil drains. I would guess I get 8-10 oz of oil out of the line.

robertbruce

Are there gaskets you have to replace?

GOLD72

I think your idea is best Joe. I am not crazy about the concept of disconnecting the lines to get that last bit of oil out. Just seems like an invitation for an eventual disaster.

*C7*

There are Oring seals but they DO NOT have to be replaced every time you remove them..........Not saying it is worth it to remove the lines but to each his own.

capevettes

Joe's method is what I do on my Z06. Very little additional oil drains out. Just let the 2 plugs drain for an extended period and give the line a few taps. No way do you need to disconnect the lines and it certainly won't result in an additional quart if you do.

erikszr1

really.......

ZO6er

racecars...

fdxpilot

Given that cars have only been In public hands for 3 weeks or so, exactly how many C7 oil changes has this guy done?

JoesC5

The front hose runs from the reservoir through the oil pan's line to the first stage oil pump (suction from the oil pan's sump). It holds some oil but if you let the car sit awhile the oil slowly bleeds back through the oil pump and into the oil pan sump. I open the drains, loosen the oil filter so that oil trapped in the engine oil galleries will drain(messy),go do something else for 45 minutes to an hour and then remove the oil filter(after it and the oil inside has cooled down). Then I flex the rear oil line as I described. The only other oil(on the older style oil coolers) that is not drained is the oil trapped in the oil lines between the oil filter and the oil cooler that is located in front of the radiator. Those two lines have a major sag(intentional as they have to drop down to be routed under the motor mount) that you can not flex and will hold some oil.

The C7 dry sump uses the new style ZR1 oil cooler so it does not have the heat exchanger located in front of the radiator or the two oil lines that will trap oil. The C7 does have the same two oil lines as the C6 that run from the reservoir to the oil pan.

JoesC5

in tech's defense, the C7 oil change is no different from the C6 oil change, so he could carry his experience forward.

Litumup411

I'm about ready to change my oil for the first time at 1000 miles. Does the C7 use the same HP-1017 filter that is used in the C6? Will I still maintain the warranty if I use a K&N filter or Mobil1 filter?

JoesC5

The K&N HP-1017 and the Mobil1 M1-113 fit the LT1 and they will not void your warranty.

Litumup411

Same as my Avalanche! Sweet, I don't even need to go shopping. Thanks Joe.

Vetteman Jack

Thanks for the info. Saving all these posts for future use.