Lowering on stock bolts - Instructions and Photos
#1
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Lowering on stock bolts - Instructions and Photos
FRONT
REAR
FINAL RESULT
REAR
FINAL RESULT
Last edited by jagamajajaran; 06-20-2019 at 11:51 PM.
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sd45t2 (12-31-2020)
#3
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Thanks! A week ago, I had no idea how to or even if I could do this myself. You're right, it's not really that difficult, and I wanted to share what I learned so others could do it too.
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#5
#6
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At all? Probably to a minute degree. There are threads where this is discussed, but because this process involves lowering on the stock bolts, the car is technically still within the manufacturers specifications. I'll have a personal opinion once I drive it around some, but I'm no looking for much of a difference.
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mjcvette (02-28-2016)
#9
Ride quality aside, I have a question.
Coming from someone who has never lowered a car: will this affect any of the C7's well tuned cornering dynamics (Track/Street)? If you were to lower this would it throw off any of the sensors, or how they engage?
Thanks.
Coming from someone who has never lowered a car: will this affect any of the C7's well tuned cornering dynamics (Track/Street)? If you were to lower this would it throw off any of the sensors, or how they engage?
Thanks.
#10
Race Director
Also, what is the difference between lowering on the stock bolts vs replacing and using aftermarket lowering bolts?
OP: Thanks for loading the simple "How-to".
#11
Racer
Very nice instructions. I posted instructions earlier as well, but without all of the nice photos. I like your idea of the jack stands on the leaf springs.
I personally put the whole car up on jack stands, then with a truck style single post jack, jacked up the leaf spring until it lifted the car off the jack stand. Saved having to jack the car up and down 4 separate times.
I've got the Z51, which doesn't appear to come down as much as the standard model, so now I'm thinking about changing the bolts. I liked the C5, those went in the opposite way and were very easy to take out and cut the rubber off the bottom. But now the rears are like the fronts and you actually have to pull the suspension apart to get them out. Would like to get the rear down about another half an inch so the gap between the tire and fender is equal front to rear.
I personally put the whole car up on jack stands, then with a truck style single post jack, jacked up the leaf spring until it lifted the car off the jack stand. Saved having to jack the car up and down 4 separate times.
I've got the Z51, which doesn't appear to come down as much as the standard model, so now I'm thinking about changing the bolts. I liked the C5, those went in the opposite way and were very easy to take out and cut the rubber off the bottom. But now the rears are like the fronts and you actually have to pull the suspension apart to get them out. Would like to get the rear down about another half an inch so the gap between the tire and fender is equal front to rear.
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Thank you!
Thanks for the input.
Since these are lowered on the stock bolts, the car is still within manufacturers specs and tolerance levels, so I don't think this effects anything you mentioned. Mine lowering bolts were not very far from the lowest position out of the factory. However, I've seen some C7s that were much higher than mine. It would appear that they don't all come out of the factory at the same places on the bolts.
Glad to do it. As for Mag ride, I do not know. Someone else will likely chime in on that. Aftermarket lowering bolts allow you to lower the car even further, taking you outside of manufacturer specifications. I felt 100% confident lowering my car on the stock bolts because that is what they made the car with the ability to make these adjustments.
I considered using a single post jack, but mine appears to have lost it's ability to hold anything up in its old age. Kinda like my grandpa always told me he was late in life... I'm with you on the rear gap being a little more than one may like. As for the Z51, is the tire size a factor when compared to the non-Z51?
Check out my mods thread. I took the picture in my OP at the same level as one I took in my mods thread after I put the reflector black outs on. Again, my lowering bolts weren't in a terribly high position as it was, but I wanted to take them to the lowest position possible.
Very nice instructions. I posted instructions earlier as well, but without all of the nice photos. I like your idea of the jack stands on the leaf springs.
I personally put the whole car up on jack stands, then with a truck style single post jack, jacked up the leaf spring until it lifted the car off the jack stand. Saved having to jack the car up and down 4 separate times.
I've got the Z51, which doesn't appear to come down as much as the standard model, so now I'm thinking about changing the bolts. I liked the C5, those went in the opposite way and were very easy to take out and cut the rubber off the bottom. But now the rears are like the fronts and you actually have to pull the suspension apart to get them out. Would like to get the rear down about another half an inch so the gap between the tire and fender is equal front to rear.
I personally put the whole car up on jack stands, then with a truck style single post jack, jacked up the leaf spring until it lifted the car off the jack stand. Saved having to jack the car up and down 4 separate times.
I've got the Z51, which doesn't appear to come down as much as the standard model, so now I'm thinking about changing the bolts. I liked the C5, those went in the opposite way and were very easy to take out and cut the rubber off the bottom. But now the rears are like the fronts and you actually have to pull the suspension apart to get them out. Would like to get the rear down about another half an inch so the gap between the tire and fender is equal front to rear.
Check out my mods thread. I took the picture in my OP at the same level as one I took in my mods thread after I put the reflector black outs on. Again, my lowering bolts weren't in a terribly high position as it was, but I wanted to take them to the lowest position possible.
#14
Racer
I considered using a single post jack, but mine appears to have lost it's ability to hold anything up in its old age. Kinda like my grandpa always told me he was late in life... I'm with you on the rear gap being a little more than one may like. As for the Z51, is the tire size a factor when compared to the non-Z51?
#15
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If I remember correctly, when checking tire sizes for my new wheels on order, the Z51 and non-Z51 tire circumferences are nearly identical between the two. The Z51 has a lower profile tire, but a larger wheel, which offsets the non-Z51 being on a smaller wheel, but has a higher profile tire. So there's no difference as far as how each set fills up the fender wells. I do believe the Magnetic Ride however, doesn't come down as much as cars without it. I think those shocks hold the car up a little higher on their own.
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adidadrivnmyZ51 (10-24-2015)
#17
I wonder about front end alignment issues and headlight alignment. If you don't lower the front the same amount as the rear (not saying that's what you did), I would think the headlights could end up pointing too high or low. I wish there was a technical bulletin on this regarding any alignment concerns.
#19
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My pleasure!
Headlights seemed to be fine for the short test drive last night. With regard to alignment, the research I did suggested that it's good to have the alignment checked, but that in most cases the alignment was still within proper specs after lowering on the stock bolts. I'll let you know once I have my alignment checked.
I wonder about front end alignment issues and headlight alignment. If you don't lower the front the same amount as the rear (not saying that's what you did), I would think the headlights could end up pointing too high or low. I wish there was a technical bulletin on this regarding any alignment concerns.